will nuts be enough on the tooth?

[TronaldDump]

Want to climb the tooth, but am not quite into hiking all that way with full rack to climb 2 mediocre pitches...... can I get away with a couple sets of nuts and maybe a couple large hex's and a gym rope?? What would you recomend as a minumum rack for 5.8ish leader or 5.10 index follower......

[DPS]

9 nuts (4-12 BD Stoppers) and 4 large hexes are the most I've ever carried for the South Face. Small Lowe Tricams are useful as well, but not necessary.

[Alex]

I hate to chestbeat or trivialize or anything, but last time I climbed the Tooth I placed 1 piece (a cam) on the entire route.

 

The final pitch now actually has a small collection of fixed gear, which is easily clipped with some alpine draws. You shouldn't need much pro...

[DPS]

I just climbed the Tooth a couple weeks ago. I was happy to place a few pieces here and there, and noticed many of the fixed pieces are gone, save for a fixed WC Friend on the final 'flakes' pitch. It was also fun to practice with Lowe Tricams, pieces I've not had a lot of experience placing.

[chris]

One way you can get away with a smaller rack is by not climbing it in 2 pitches. Break it up into 4 pitches (just like you will on the rappels), and you need less gear, be less concerned with rope drag, have less miss-communication, and a lot more fun. Most of the problems I see on the Tooth are from leaders insisting on linking pitches.

Edited July 20, 2013 by chris

[mattp]

One way you can get away with a smaller rack is by not climbing it in 2 pitches. Break it up into 4 pitches (just like you will on the rappels), and you need less gear, be less concerned with rope drag, have less miss-communication, and a lot more fun. Most of the problems I see on the Tooth are from leaders insisting on linking pitches.

 

Good advice.

[matt_warfield]

One way you can get away with a smaller rack is by not climbing it in 2 pitches. Break it up into 4 pitches (just like you will on the rappels), and you need less gear, be less concerned with rope drag, have less miss-communication, and a lot more fun. Most of the problems I see on the Tooth are from leaders insisting on linking pitches.

 

A bit of a difficult issue. Aggravation with rope drag vs. extensive time setting up and breaking down belays in the midst of big crowds going up and rappelling kind of is an issue. Small rack of nuts will be fine. Save several for the top traverse. And if you enjoy alpine climbing, get used to carrying some weight. Or you can downselect to cragging, then sport climbing, then bouldering. But alpine requires some fitness and determination whether it be The Tooth or North Ridge of Stuart or a myriad of other destinations.

 

And a 5.10 Index follower should cruise this route with minimal gear. Six nuts, only four on his sling.

Edited July 21, 2013 by matt_warfield

[DPS]

Six nuts, only four on his sling.

 

Or two big nuts. Well, not even that big.

[NateF]

Set of nuts, a few small cams, a few hexes for larger pieces, and runners/slings will cover you in case a hold pulls or something knocks you off. "Gym rope": if you mean 30m or so I don't think it will get you down the raps. Yes you can down climb, but most do not prefer to do so on loose easy 5th.

If you carry the rope, might as well bring a few pounds of pro to throw in your partner's pack. It's not that far to hike. Be safe, have fun.

[JBC]

Nuts are fine, the tooth has been climbed on just nuts for many decades.

 

I first lead the tooth in the late 70s in my first season of technical climbing on a ragtag collection of nuts, all purchased on closeout - old timers here may remember straight sided stoppers, Clog Cogs and Forrest Titons. probably had a total of 8 nuts between my partner and I.

 

As advised, keep the pitches short, use the natural belays that present themselves and you will not need a heavy rack. You should have no problem QUICKLY setting up and tearing down the belays if you have some leading experience.

 

Enjoy!

[mattp]

By the way:

the south face of The Tooth is an awesome climb. There is a reason that it is so popular.

 

Enjoy!