5th class rock routes/peaks along Ptarmigan Trav?

[rlfrazer]

Hello, two friends and I are thinking of doing the Ptarmigan Traverse in late July. Being more of a climber than a backpacker these days, I'm interested in tagging a few peaks - with 5th class routes (I can pull my buddies up) - along the way. Recommendations anyone? They're probably not capable of anything harder than 5.8-5.9 (and would probably appreciate stuff much easier), even though I'd love to take them up stuff in this range.

 

Options I've found, from what little research I've done:

 

N. Ridge of German Helmet (5.5).

E. Face of Mixup Peak (5.2).

Thanks so much!

 

Lee F.

Durango, CO

Edited June 8, 2013 by rlfrazer

[JasonG]

Spire Point, regular route, easy fifth.

 

The E. face of Mixup may be difficult to access by late July, depending. The notch to access the route is guarded by an impressive moat. Also, this route is probably not best for newbie climbers. Loose rock and very exposed scrambling between the fifth class parts. Overall, the climb is unnerving for many folks.

 

I've heard good things about that route on the German Helmet, but have not climbed it myself.

 

You may also want to look into the traverse of the summit ridge on Dome. Although, we just spent the time it would have taken to do it and lounged on the summit for several hours, which seemed like a better way to spend an afternoon.

There isn't a lot of great rock along the Ptarmigan, except on Dome.

 

Have fun, it's my favorite long traverse in the Cascades!

[DPS]

Didn't Kurt Hicks or maybe Jens Klubberud do a 5th class route on Formidable? I'd look at steep snow and ice routes as well. Some of the rock in that neighborhood is kind of skanky.

[JasonG]

Yes Kurt and Forest, though not a route to take new climbers on, if I remember correctly. TR here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=896257

[rlfrazer]

Thanks, Jason. This is informative. Will check out Dome, and keep German Helmet on the list.

[rlfrazer]

Thanks, DPS.

[rlfrazer]

That Formidable route looks great. Thx.

 

[curtveld]

Lee, the PT is long and arduous enough that most folks (myself included) consider it a good trip to NOT carry the extra weight of a rack and lead rope.

 

Much more popular is to tag lots of peaks along the way via Class 3 and 4 routes without added gear. Do it your way, but that is the typical strategy. Good luck, it is a gorgeous place!

[John Frieh]

Rock quality improves as you travel south IMO. Old guard is chill and good quality. Terry and I climbed a number of 4th/low 5th class peaks near Dome on this trip:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=377413

 

and we were able to climb most of them with minimal rock rack.

 

Elephants head (also near Dome) has a few 5.8ish routes on them (by Nelson if memory serves me right) that look great but can't say I climbed them.

 

If you do the alternate exit out to Stehekin you'll go under gunsight which has a few high quality rock routes.

[rlfrazer]

Thanks for the advice. Yup, I know what I mean.

[rlfrazer]

Thanks for the advice, John. Noted.

[tvashtarkatena]

If you're interested in using your rack, one strategy might be to run up Formidable, Le Conte, and Sentinal (no gear required, all quick side trips) and concentrate on the beautiful granite in the Dome/Gunsight area (perhaps running up Sinister as a bonus). That's a pretty remote place these days - and arguably the most spectacular part of the trip. Might as well make the most of lugging the gear in by staying a while.

 

Mixup's got a very dicey, fractured pitch at the top. Not hard climbing at all, but be very careful of it if you go there.

 

With 12 miles of road walking at the Downey Creek end, I'd say the Stehekin exit is looking pretty damn good these days if you can get somebody to drop you off at Cascade Pass.

 

Plus, who'd pass up a chance to tag the Queen of Quality Rock, Mt. Agnes?

 

 

Edited June 11, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[rlfrazer]

Thanks, tvashtarkatena. More good beta. Lots to chew on.