Hyalite Ice Conditions

[keenwesh]

I've been getting lots of people PMing me asking for Hyalite conditions reports. Check here instead.

 

I copy and pasted this out of a PM, so I hope that explains the haphazard way I listed these routes. Maybe next time when stuff is actually in I'll organize it a little better. I assume people would like being able to check what the ice is doing over here, let me know if that is too bold of an assumption.

 

I've been getting interrogated quite a bit lately from ya'll PNW people, I should probably post a Hyalite conditions thread on here or something. I can also give info on the rosebud climbs, but it'll be second or third hand info as I have to attend school and can't go driving into the beartooths every 2 days, unfortunately.

 

 

Current Conditions: Dribbles ain't in, not even a little bit. I haven't hiked up to it but looking across there isn't anything. Don't be discouraged though, Silken slot could be climbable, that gash stays pretty cold.

 

What is in that I have climbed: Elevator shaft, fun WI4 pillar right now, bring KBs to place in the rock behind.

GII, good shape, but the top step is a fucking waterfall, wear your hardshell and put your hood up, save it for the end of the day as you will get soaked.

 

Routes that should be climbable by next week if it doesn't get super warm for some reason: Scepter is looking like the picture on the back cover of winter dance, actual WI5, git' it.

Matrix maybe, it's kinda a long shot, but if it is in it'd be in really fun mixed shape.

Feeding the cat looks like a good WI4+.

Twin is in (of course).

Fat One.

Thrill is gone is thin where there's normally fat ice but it has been getting climbed.

Small possibility that good looking one will be in. needs a few more days of cold temps.

Genesis is in for the hoards.

Over easy and curtains are forming, but probably harder than their advertised ratings.

This is the time of the year that dielectric breakdown forms, if we get a cold snap jump on this one.

Slot corner would be in with a day or two of cold temps.

 

That's all I can rattle off the top of my head. ask me about other climbs I didn't mention and I should be able to provide you with some kind of response.

 

For those wondering if it's worth making the drive over in the next week or so: I'd say it depends, none of the more difficult climbs are in, and the easy routes are all in difficult early season shape. The ice is thin enough that if it's warm out stuff isn't bonded and pillars can easily come down. If you're confidant climbing stuff that is a little sketch but way fun come out, if that kind of thing makes yer balls suck up inside your body maybe you want to go to thailand to clip bolts and drink fufu shit on the beach (I have no idea what you'd do in thailand, I've never been there, but probably not as fun as ice climbing in MT).

 

Also, I'm leaving MT Friday afternoon to climb at Index, I will be away for my computer for a full week. Hopefully ya'll don't get too lonely without me. As soon as I get back in the canyon I'll update.

[wayne]

Huge thanks K,

[keenwesh]

Wayne, you just reminded me. Mummy 4 is forming, and the last WI5 pillar on zack attack should be touching down momentarily. Those shots of you on Mummy 4 last year are sick, I hope to recreate them in the next couple months.

 

Mummy 3 can be done without much ice, correct?

Edited November 15, 2012 by keenwesh

[Raoul Duke]

Awesome! Thanks for the update!

[wayne]

I am sure you mean mummy3? Yes, great mixed.

[lazzara]

Though I can also attest to good times climbing and hanging out in MT, I'd have to say that climbing ridiculously steep limestone between tropical swim sessions, $0.50 Pad Thai and spending time with non-North American women is probably a bit more awesome than Bozeman.

[keenwesh]

careful now lazzara, yer sounding like some kinda pansy. Foreign women and pad thai? Real men brave winter cold alone or in the company of other burly dudes (there are no women in MT, the country is too rugged for the gentle kind) and eat fresh killed venison for sustenance.

[ColinB]

careful now lazzara, yer sounding like some kinda pansy. Foreign women and pad thai? Real men brave winter cold alone or in the company of other burly dudes (there are no women in MT, the country is too rugged for the gentle kind) and eat fresh killed venison for sustenance.

 

Montana: where the men are men and the women are men.

[matt_warfield]

I have had my share of tropical delights, but I agree with keenwesh. Montana fosters or breaks inner strength.

 

I also live in Bozeman and after the recent cold snap, locals run, slide, climb, and ski whenever possible. I also found horse crap on the sidewalk and saw a guy ice skate down the middle of the street near downtown. Dis Montana?

Edited November 15, 2012 by matt_warfield

[kevino]

 

Montana: where the men are men and the women are men.

 

this is why god invented sheep

 

baa

baa

baa

baa

baa

[DRep]

 

Montana: where the men are men and the women are men.

 

this is why god invented sheep

 

baa

baa

baa

baa

baa

 

Kevin can't stop going back for more... How many sheep can you fit in the back of your truck Kevin? One for every night of the week?

[matt_warfield]

God created sheep for food and fleece.

 

Montana has women who would kick your ass and still clean up for Saturday night.

Edited November 16, 2012 by matt_warfield

[Tyson.g]

 

Montana: where the men are men and the women are men.

 

this is why god invented sheep

 

baa

baa

baa

baa

baa

 

Kevin can't stop going back for more... How many sheep can you fit in the back of your truck Kevin? One for every night of the week?

 

Everyone know it's how you cut them up that determines how many you can fit in the truck.......

[kevino]

Thats why I have a canopy on my truck Dave, pile more of them in there without damaging their soft wool!

 

Wanna to go hyalite fri and sat after thanksgiving?

[kevino]

God created sheep for food and fleece.

 

Montana has women who would kick your ass and still clean up for Saturday night.

 

Will you introduce me to these women when I'm out there next week?

[matt_warfield]

God created sheep for food and fleece.

 

Montana has women who would kick your ass and still clean up for Saturday night.

 

Will you introduce me to these women when I'm out there next week?

 

Several are busy doing Crossfit, a few more doing MMA, many going running, and a few more in Missoula getting ready for the Cat/Griz game. Girls have to figure out what to do in the shoulder season before ice climbing and ski season.

 

And BTW we have a warming trend right now. Good luck with the ice.

Edited November 16, 2012 by matt_warfield

[kevino]

I'll give them something to do!

 

I'm not planning on heading out there for another 8 days, so I have some time. Still looks cold according to the weather station:

 

http://www.mtavalanche.com/weather/hyalite

[kevino]

And to get this thread back on track...from sunday in the Beartooths:

 

 

 

cali ice...thin and not quite in (to us anyway). the closer you get, the wetter and more scary it gets

[keenwesh]

yeah, thanks kevin. As much as I like throwing shit back and forth lets try and keep this thread strictly about conditions. If we must make sheep fuckin' jokes perhaps that can be done in spray. Keep it on topic team!

[matt_warfield]

Agreed.

[kevino]

Just got back from a quick two days. Climbed twin falls left and right and the dribbles. All are in fine shape, albeit on the thinner side.

 

Take all of the following with a grain of salt, as I'm happy to stand corrected, but just going off of my observations, pictures and climbers I talked to

 

These climbs are in for sure:

-twin falls left and right

-the dribbles

-g1, though wet

-g2

-hangover

 

these climbs are probably in (from pictures/observations):

-silken falls

-over easy/curtains area

-responsible family man had quite a bit of ice, but i don't know

 

these climbs not in (from pictures observations

-avalanche gulch (lower pitches formed, upper not)

-cleo's needle

-solstice and equinox

-most of the unnamed and black magic wall looked poor

-amphitheater climbs

 

 

 

 

[kevino]

And here are some pictures I took of fellow climbers on friday (Andy and Anna). let me know if you want the full size image

 

 

 

and the guys from Montana whose name I didn't catch

 

[Bmulvihill]

Quick trip this past weekend as well.

 

Responsible was climbed Friday and Sat. by strong parties, saw pics on one guys phone from the friday ascent.

 

I climbed Scepter Saturday afternoon and it was stout, wet, and engaging with minimal pro.

 

Champagne was good a week ago.

 

pray for a cold snap.

 

 

[keenwesh]

I went and did Dribbles last night with the (almost) full moon, used headlamps when climbing but otherwise hiked in and out in moonlight, really cool. Go for it if you get the chance. The route itself was in good shape, a little thin on the top outs but not too bad. Just made it from the base of the headwall to the trees up top in a full 80 meter pitch.

 

Unfortunately it's 50 degrees outside my classroom and is forecasted to rain in the next couple days, perhaps getting chilly again around monday. We'll see how Hyalite holds up, but I'm not very optimistic.

[keenwesh]

if it doesn't get cold next week and build stuff up that bodes poorly for the icefest and the routes that receive the bulk of that traffic, think elevator shaft becoming a totally hacked out ladder climb, however with any luck shit will still be forming afterwards and there'll be enough building to repair the climbs even with the regular traffic they get.

The ice might not be as great as it could be, but Hayden and his dad on Friday will be a great show, and the comp on saturday will be good fun. Make it out here and chances are you won't be disappointed. All profits from the icefest go to plowing the road and maintaining access through the end of March every year. Rest easy knowing you're helping everyone out by seeing shows and participating in clinics.

 

See everyone next week!