Uksteve

PS if anyone wants a free used but never abused, Petzl Elios white helmet size 2 PM me tonight. Can be collected from Days Inn later but will also take to Hyalite grotto car park tomorrow and leave on roof of a black Wyoming plated 4runner. Feel free to take it if you will use it. Doesnt fit me well so bought a Mammut one here and have too much stuff to lug home. Swear on my mothers life that it has never taken a fall or been hit... But of course all future injuries while you are wearing it are at you own risk...so dont bother telling me if youre broken. I dont want to hear...

Fork gated at 8:00 this morning. Met the Forest Service truck half way up the fork to Palisades giving me a tricky reverse for half a mile However, -5F at trailhead so walk in needed to warm up and easy. Palisades in perfect condition today and the sky was blue. Best day in Montana so far for me and the Mrs as GlacierNat Park was perma-grey last week. Shame its home to The Netherlands on Friday....

Broke a trail to sleeping giant falls as a recommended climb and close to car park today. Bit of a slog. The lower cone and river bed is a giant hollow sheet 1-2 inches thick and today a least had running water visible through ice in centre and on right of lower ice formations as was quite warm up there. Above 3m though, especially on the centre left, the ice looked good ..and no more than WI3+ ...but sadly couldnt get on the bloody thing without a turf-wet rock scramble as ice too hollow.This was..or should i say would have been...easy enough but no gear to protect and being a dufus didnt fancy cocking it up leaving me (or the Mrs belaying) exposed to a bouncing down the hollow ice creek bed. I regret not just going for it but been a long week and Im tired so no compliants. One more cold snap and itd be worth the effort. Oh and one other note. If you find a 10" BD screw at the bottom of Mummy II youre in luck...I dropped it from the easy bit on way up to crux at top in crazy spindrift conditions a couple of days ago. As I said...dufus..

Thanks for update. Looks good ..although vision blurred sitting up in a motel in bozeman with jet lag at 4:30 am after 24 hrs travel and FA sleep. The Mrs is deep in the land of nod but i feel broken already....Getting well old.. Oh well .she can lead Will go up to canyon mon or tues. Trusting in the fairy god mother of winter and going to hang around MT and WY for xmas. After 5 years off the ice to do what normal 40+ people should be doing (working a bit then spending all their money racing bikes) I figured a few days waiting for conditions wouldnt matter. Photo looks sweet of that route though. Oh and if I see a fxcker with your poles ill give him some verbal in a polite British accent. You should get them back in no time haha.

G14. Practice with both as can set up either way. I only ever use monos over wi3

John.. youre killing me I'll be back here Thurs to see if you have more rays of hope for me haha

yeah saw that canada climb... wont be starting on that one after the lay off.. come on cody land...you can do it... sitting at home here in the netherlands with the mrs and the prayer mat

Anyone want to put me out my misery with an update .. ice fallen down in all the tropical sunshine? See its a little colder today - but was chatting to a ranger at Waterton Park and their main two ice climbs just fell down yesterday and are unlikely to reform. So wont be going there for a mini-vacation within a vacation. No ice and 100mph winds put me off

sure..no issue.. rental 4x4's are made for thrashing... colorado is dry .. canada if I must. Sadly will miss the ice(less) fest..arrive on the last Sunday. Anyway thanks for replying..will keep an eye on here and montanaice.com if you or anyone has beta. Enjoy the mixed routes in the meantime.

thanks..only willing to if (really, really) really must. I have 4 weeks off work so surely will come good! Have all my annual leave for 18 months in one go and want to make the most of it so going to bring mountain gear (tent etc) so can head into backcountry first if needs be - beartooths? glacier np? tetons, whatever..dont care..except with with 84 kg of gear between me and the mrs we can only bring snowshoes ..no room in our baggage allowance for skis! and we want to climb ice not dxck about on snow plods ..oh I dont want to get squished by an avalanche

thanks for the update...bit depressed to be honest ...coming out from Amsterdam in Europe on the 9th Dec and had hoped the canyon to be fat and ready. Winter climbing in the Tetons then.... Or a 9 hour drive to Canmore? Anyone know if the 89 road stays open and the trip to Calgary is easy enough in winter?

Perfect conditions. Easy climb. Cant ask for more. Thanks for the info. Two days in whistler then back to work. See ya.

Good good. Off up there tomorrow.

Thanks

Hello. Want to plod up mt baker coleman denning with a mate while visiting the NW this week. Anyone tell me if the cole.-denning glacier route still in reasonable condition? Will arriving today to seatle and hope to go on mon-tues. thanks for advise.