Ice Climbing Season is here and I am screwed, help

[danmcph]

I have been trying to find a pair of boots that don't have heel lift. I want a boot like a Nepal Evo or Scarpa Mt Blanc. Both of those have about 1" of heel lift for me even with insoles.

 

I thought maybe I could use the womens version but the La Sportiva's can only be found up to a size 42 (I need 43.5) and the Mt Blanc's only come up to a size 43 and I need a 44 in Scarpa.

 

What next? How do I overcome the fact I am a man with a larger foot (relative to a women) but a woman's heel.

 

How do I get a boot without heel lift? Is there a way to get that space taken up somehow?

[Friedrich]

[danmcph]

I used the hacksaw, now things are worse. Maybe I cut the wrong part of my foot off. Or was the boot the item I was supposed to cut?

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Do you mean you have heel lift in the boot because the boot heel is too wide? Or are you referring to some boot feature you don't like?

 

If the problem is your heel lifting when you walk and blisters, first try different lacing patterns to lock your heel down, and also tape your heel up so you don't have as much skin abrasion. I also have narrow heels and have been able to get my old Sportiva Nepal Extremes to work although there is a break in period every year where my heels get used to them again when I've worn lighter boots/shoes for 8 months.

 

You might try getting the boot with the closest fit you can find and then visiting a backcountry ski boot fitter. They can do some cool stuff with foot beds and add extra padding around the heel and stuff.

 

If your feet are really screwy you could opt for the old school plastic double boot or hybrid double boot with a thermo-fit liner that will be easier to work with too.

[Woodcutter]

Many snowboard boots come with U-shaped inserts that you are somehow meant to be able to fit into the heel section of the boot to prevent heel lift.

 

It's worth noting that snowboarding requires excellent heel-cup functionality or you can't get the board on the toe-side edge effectively.

 

Take a trip to your local snowboard shop & do some asking. I reckon I saw some in a recent pair I bought (32's) and I know there was a set of these U shaped things in a pair of Burton Serrow's about 4 years ago - I reckon they're standard now. Good luck

[danmcph]

The issue I have is a small heel top to bottom so when I simulate front pointing my heel raises in the boot about 1/2 inch. I hit my toes when kicking if I do the next size down.

 

I have been playing with it today and have the following in the boot:

 

Heel Wedge

Flat spacer from my ski boot

Superfoot Insole

Extra tongue padding that came with the boot

 

I still have some heel lift but it is better, not gone though.

[keenwesh]

cut the metal strap off the front of your crampons and run the keeper cord directly around your ankle. That'll help some of the heel lift as your foot will be more locked into the boot.

[Friedrich]

Ok, in all seriousness now. Just go to Marmot in Bellevue and ask for their most experienced boot-fitter, then go over your problem with them.

 

From my own gear-shop-employee experience it sounds like you might have a low-volume foot as well as a small heel. That, coupled with long foot length would cause heel lift unless you can fill that volume space with extra socks, inserts, etc, and lace the arch area extremely tight.

 

If you have a really weird foot and nothing else works, you might try a moldable thermo-fit inner boot in plastics as OlympicMtnBoy suggested, which they can also do at Marmot.

 

 

[Jon H]

I have a similar foot - long, low volume, fairly high arch, and laughably narrow heels.

 

All my heel-lift problems were instantly fixed with a pair of Scarpa Phantom Guides. I have green Superfeet in them too, but I'm not sure it even makes a difference.

 

Before getting the Guides I had owned (and hated): LS Nepal EVO, LS Trango Prime, LS Nuptse, Kayland M11, Mad Rock Alpinist (ugh), and Koflach Degre. I had horrendous heel lift in all of them except surprisingly the Mad Rock, but they left me in such crippling pain (just shitty boots) that I got rid of them after 3-4 climbing days.

[duckfeet]

I've got very tough to fit feet as well. Very low volume, always heel lift and blisters, bone spurs and growths on the heels, etc….tried tango extremes, nepals, scarpa guides, mammuts, basically whatever I could find. Eventually got a pair of the Sportiva Barunteses with the moldable liners and its the best boot I've used. With a good aftermarket insole and a solid job molding, I can hike miles in them with no issues and lock my heels in place with no movement at all. Sure its a little heavy on long walks and sport mixed but anything from long moderate alpine ice to steep WI is great. Order them from backcountry, get them molded, and go try them out.

[nordicpunk]

Not sure where you live, but I second the idea of getting some good boot-fitting help. I have narrow heels and have had the best luck with Sportiva nepal evo extremes. not quite as much insulation as the boots you are looking at though. Also, my favorite setup for cascades mountaineering or ice climbs back in the mountains is a Dynafit TLT boot. Light, plenty of articulation, and a mold-able liner. They climb great, and if you have to ski in anyway...

[jeepnphreak]

You have ankles/heels like me.

I find that almost any boot has heel lift. I find that a wrap or two of that sticky foam tape fills in the gaps well.

 

this stuff.

http://www.icewarehouse.com/descpage.html?pcode=RAUF

 

it can be found at any CVS/pharmisudcal/sports center ect ect.