Winter Alpine Climbs

[Kyle Smith]

Anyone know of any good safe winter alpine routes? I'm in the Portland area and havent really thought about winter routes until this year. Pretty much getting sick of waiting for spring to roll around. Perferrably routes that demand the basic mountaineering skills (rope teams, crampons, ice axe, ect) as I am still learning the more technical skills (trad gear, complex anchors, ect).

 

Thanks in advance!

[ivan]

what have you climbed on hood?

[JasonG]

Most winter routes are avi/weather dependent (be careful!). That said, you can also check out the Tatoosh range in MRNP (in addition to Hood). All of the peaks become much more challenging in winter conditions and the access is quite good. Pinnacle, Lane, Unicorn, etc.

[OlegV]

Yocum Ridge on Hood got nice winter rock.

Edited October 20, 2012 by OlegV

[glassgowkiss]

Actually a lot of times the best conditions are early in the season, before there is much snow accumulation. The general rule is to wait for the wet/warm front to move through and cold air to follow. Most of the times you'll have to go the moment it starts clearing up- hence you'll need job flexibility. Routes on North side of Mt. Hood would be a good into to winter alpine climbing. On a low snow year North Sister is a good objective (as long as you can drive ways up. Also there are some good ice/mix routes on Broken Top.

[Off_White]

Good advice here Kyle (note that Oleg is joking). The avalanche/weather awareness is essential, casual routes in the wrong conditions are deadly. I know someone whose partner died in an avalanche on Unicorn in the tatoosh range, and odds are most people on this board are only one or two degrees of separation away from someone who has died on Hood. GGK's advice about early season/low snow is pretty spot on, especially if you're looking for ice/mixed as opposed to snow.