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Removable Bolts


Tyson.g

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The discussion in this Trip Report

 

leads me to ask the question:

 

I am curious as to what others feel about removable bolts in the Darrington setting.

On the open slabs I often find myself using the bolts as a roadmap of sorts while ascending a route that I am unfamiliar with.

I am uncertain about the ability to spot an open bolt hole while on the vastness of the d-town glory.

 

Thoughts?

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The discussion in this Trip Report

 

leads me to ask the question:

 

I am curious as to what others feel about removable bolts in the Darrington setting.

On the open slabs I often find myself using the bolts as a roadmap of sorts while ascending a route that I am unfamiliar with.

I am uncertain about the ability to spot an open bolt hole while on the vastness of the d-town glory.

 

Thoughts?

 

What removable bolt? What's that mean?

 

You can remove a 5 piece or a Fixe. People call them removable bolts. Or the alien looking device that is way overpriced, sucks, is not made in 3/8 anymore and no one only one or 2 folks owns?

 

They are radically different.

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I posted the reference to "removable bolts" that I think lead to this thread.

 

By that I meant something that could be removed without resort to wedges and a crowbar (as in the typical wedge anchors that are most common). I meant to refer to a bolt which most would view as permanent but which could be removed using a wrench, pliers, and maybe a hooking device. By "removable" I meant Rawl 5-piece or Hilti coil or Fixe triplex or something similar.

 

I do not advocate the bolt hole hardware that was marketed as a removable bolt some years back because the subsequent climber will not be able to find the hole unless, maybe, the bolt is placed on overhanging terrain.

 

I once drilled a hole, and went back six months later to stand on the very same footholds from where I drilled it and it still took 10 minutes to find the hole. That would NOT be the experience I would strive to produce if I were setting up a climb for followers and, if leading on a first ascent, I'd rather have a traditional bolt - thank you.

 

I have not tried the hardware, but I cannot imagine that it is easy to place the pro - even if you can see the hole - as compared to slotting a nut or slamming in a cam. And I wonder about the load strength as compared to a bolt.

 

I'm asking for the big slap down here but, if my assumptions (guesses) are correct, it seems rather silly to drill a hole to make an anchor that is a nuisance to utilize and not as strong as it could be.

 

Has anybody posting here actually used the product that was marketed for use with open bolt holes?

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I agree that it would be really hard to find the holes, even though they are bigger than those for bolts with hangers. I often have trouble just finding normal bolts with hangers.

 

Also the units are really expensive. I couldn't justify buying a set.

 

For more on removable bolts, see the recent discussion on Mt. Project:

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/removable-bolt-trial-by-fire-by-manufacturer/107502423

 

Jon

 

 

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This is a Climb Tech Removable bolt. These are not what MattP mentioned in the thread about Darrington. They are generally not useful for climbing applications.

ClimbTech-Removable-Bolt__88441_zoom.jpg

 

 

This is a removable and replaceable bolt (Powers Power-bolt). These are, and should be, the standard for placing in climbing areas. All of the pieces can be removed and, thus, the hole can be reused. Please use 304 stainless steel bolts with stainless hangers so they'll last 100 years.

_lm101113-rawl-3-8-34-x-2-1-4-34-5p-bolt-cs-five-piece-rawl-power-bolts-carbon-steel-1.jpg

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