Tyson.g Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 The discussion in this Trip Report leads me to ask the question: I am curious as to what others feel about removable bolts in the Darrington setting. On the open slabs I often find myself using the bolts as a roadmap of sorts while ascending a route that I am unfamiliar with. I am uncertain about the ability to spot an open bolt hole while on the vastness of the d-town glory. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 not to mention the holes get munge and water in them on slabs and in 5 years are either eroded out so a rb doesn't work or are full of moss and mud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 The discussion in this Trip Report leads me to ask the question: I am curious as to what others feel about removable bolts in the Darrington setting. On the open slabs I often find myself using the bolts as a roadmap of sorts while ascending a route that I am unfamiliar with. I am uncertain about the ability to spot an open bolt hole while on the vastness of the d-town glory. Thoughts? What removable bolt? What's that mean? You can remove a 5 piece or a Fixe. People call them removable bolts. Or the alien looking device that is way overpriced, sucks, is not made in 3/8 anymore and no one only one or 2 folks owns? They are radically different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I posted the reference to "removable bolts" that I think lead to this thread. By that I meant something that could be removed without resort to wedges and a crowbar (as in the typical wedge anchors that are most common). I meant to refer to a bolt which most would view as permanent but which could be removed using a wrench, pliers, and maybe a hooking device. By "removable" I meant Rawl 5-piece or Hilti coil or Fixe triplex or something similar. I do not advocate the bolt hole hardware that was marketed as a removable bolt some years back because the subsequent climber will not be able to find the hole unless, maybe, the bolt is placed on overhanging terrain. I once drilled a hole, and went back six months later to stand on the very same footholds from where I drilled it and it still took 10 minutes to find the hole. That would NOT be the experience I would strive to produce if I were setting up a climb for followers and, if leading on a first ascent, I'd rather have a traditional bolt - thank you. I have not tried the hardware, but I cannot imagine that it is easy to place the pro - even if you can see the hole - as compared to slotting a nut or slamming in a cam. And I wonder about the load strength as compared to a bolt. I'm asking for the big slap down here but, if my assumptions (guesses) are correct, it seems rather silly to drill a hole to make an anchor that is a nuisance to utilize and not as strong as it could be. Has anybody posting here actually used the product that was marketed for use with open bolt holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonNelson Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 I agree that it would be really hard to find the holes, even though they are bigger than those for bolts with hangers. I often have trouble just finding normal bolts with hangers. Also the units are really expensive. I couldn't justify buying a set. For more on removable bolts, see the recent discussion on Mt. Project: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/removable-bolt-trial-by-fire-by-manufacturer/107502423 Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 This is a Climb Tech Removable bolt. These are not what MattP mentioned in the thread about Darrington. They are generally not useful for climbing applications. This is a removable and replaceable bolt (Powers Power-bolt). These are, and should be, the standard for placing in climbing areas. All of the pieces can be removed and, thus, the hole can be reused. Please use 304 stainless steel bolts with stainless hangers so they'll last 100 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 In my limited experience placing bolts, I've used the ones Kurt recommends, but I used the 1/2 inch version primarily. They are quite pricey but I think that makes it so that you consider the options when placing bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 When placing bolts, do it right the first time (stainless steel with stainless hangers) and consider the long-term impact to our limited resource of rock. Route developers are doing no one a favor by placing sub-par hardware. Being cheap is not an excuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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