kevbone Posted June 20, 2012 Posted June 20, 2012 Heading out today after work. Come on out and enjoy the first day of summer (after 4 pm that is)..... Quote
ivan Posted June 20, 2012 Posted June 20, 2012 if only i wasn't hopping into a car at this very moment to go the valley! Quote
kevbone Posted June 20, 2012 Author Posted June 20, 2012 mmmmm......The Valley or Ozone. Tough choice.....lol Have a great time. Quote
kevbone Posted January 21, 2013 Author Posted January 21, 2013 Climbed at the Ozone yesterday. Super windy and cold....but it was sunny. Got on: Dirty Jugs Carrots for Everyone Chain Mail High Plains Drifter Ripper All the climbs were very dry and totally awesome. Also climbed with my old friend Marc Farra whom I have not climbed with in over 10 years. "There is not such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing" Quote
powderhound Posted April 3, 2013 Posted April 3, 2013 Ozone today after work? solid belay and drinking skills required. Thanks, Bryan Quote
powderhound Posted April 16, 2013 Posted April 16, 2013 Ozone today after work? I can leave work from PDX at 3:30, at the parking lot by 4:30, solid belay and drinking skills required. email @ bryan.m.schmitz AT GMAIL 4/16/2013 Quote
ivan Posted May 3, 2013 Posted May 3, 2013 like perky white women, they're kinda all the same still...for the record: meth rage Quote
kevbone Posted May 3, 2013 Author Posted May 3, 2013 like perky white women, they're kinda all the same Hilarious. That could be said about any climbing crag. Quote
powderhound Posted May 3, 2013 Posted May 3, 2013 I like the short 5.9 that is splitter. Jim and I wish it went on for 500 more feet. Quote
kevbone Posted May 3, 2013 Author Posted May 3, 2013 I like the short 5.9 that is splitter. Jim and I wish it went on for 500 more feet. Are you talking about Ripper? Or the Opdyke crack? Quote
kevbone Posted June 5, 2013 Author Posted June 5, 2013 Heading out to the Ozone tomorrow night after work. Hope to see some of you out there!!!! Quote
MrGecko Posted June 24, 2013 Posted June 24, 2013 BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good. Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro? Quote
Lodestone Posted June 24, 2013 Posted June 24, 2013 BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good. Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro? I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing. How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no? Chad Quote
kevbone Posted June 24, 2013 Author Posted June 24, 2013 BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good. Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro? I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing. How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no? Chad Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well. Quote
kevbone Posted June 24, 2013 Author Posted June 24, 2013 How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no? I have seen some people lead it straight up and come in from the right and place smaller cams. I lead it up and to the left and place a 3 or a 4 inch behind the top of the flake. Quote
Lodestone Posted June 28, 2013 Posted June 28, 2013 BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good. Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro? I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing. Chad Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well. Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book. Chad Quote
MrGecko Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 From 5.8 to 11a, glad to see a consensus! Anyhow, it is a good route to prep for Tuolumne's OWs and awkward flares. Quote
kevbone Posted July 8, 2013 Author Posted July 8, 2013 Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book. Chad Well....I have serious issues with the new Olson Guide and he knows it. I have spoken with him on this issue. He changed quite a few of the original ratings which is a serious no no in the climbing world. Quote
powderhound Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book. Chad Well....I have serious issues with the new Olson Guide and he knows it. I have spoken with him on this issue. He changed quite a few of the original ratings which is a serious no no in the climbing world. And now we all KNOW it to. Thanks for sharing. Carry on... Quote
geoff Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 Welded implies that thing aint on my rack now. Which it is. Quote
MrGecko Posted July 16, 2013 Posted July 16, 2013 I love when the 'school groups' come out to Ozone and leave their shit all over the place. Empty boxes, food wrappers and empty drink containers. I picked up a bunch of their shit after they left on the weekend. Too bad the course didn't include a lesson on crag etiquette and pitching in. Next time I'll make sure to ask where they are from so I can inform the institute what a fine outdoor program they are running. Quote
jeb013 Posted July 16, 2013 Posted July 16, 2013 Agreed. Not to mention 25 people with 2 ropes and only one person to direct the traffic made for a clusterf*ck in the two areas that they monopolized. There are plenty of routes, but it would have been nice to get to the upper pitches and climb hang up's. Oh well next time. Quote
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