jeb013

I have the variant 52 and have grown to really enjoy it for full days climbing and light overnights. It is a little on the heavy side but the 2014 model has the weight shaved down to 3lb 10oz for the large which is closer to a 55L pack. not bad for a pack with a frame sheet, brain and hip belt that can be changed out. jeb

I know it's getting to be late season but does anyone know if there is still any water available on the west ridge of Mt. Stuart? Thank You Jeremy

For all you that have climbed the west ridge. Can you get away with using a single 30m rope or a 60m half. Trying to keep as light as possible with the hopes that I wont have to spend the night on the ridge. Thank You Jeremy

Bump??

Can anyone give me some direction as to where to find the printable guide for this area? Thanks for any help Jeremy

The hell with that gully. I had a goat trying to chase me down it last year. I think I would have rather dealt with falling rock! jeb

the weather is looking a little debatable. Any contingency plans for rain?

I've always gotten 3G/4G service but never an actual wifi router signal. But in the end it's all the same if you are using your phone. jeb

Skull hollow is pretty decent. $5 a night It has a camp host so no sketchy squatters that I saw Fires are still allowed Don't expect to crash early. It is a popular spot for large groups who like to enjoy themselves. Don't think the bivy has wifi yet. Although that might change any minute at this rate. jeb

Trip: Smith Rock - Many Date: 4/2/2014 Trip Report: Gorgeous day at Smith. Dusting of snow could be seen on the Marsupials from the day before. Temps were low 50's and hardly a cloud in the sky. Climbed monkey face and had it to ourselves. After which we went over to the front side and did some cragging. Heinous was the only route with a wait and the partner was still able to get a burn on it without killing much time. It was a phenomenol day with perfect weather. Proof positive that just because it's snowing today doesn't mean you can't climb tomorrow. Spring is here, get out and get some folks. jeb Gear Notes: Light jacket and big smiles. Approach Notes: Misery Ridge is perfectly named.

Supposed to open March 1st jeb

I was talking with a fishing buddy of mine, and was basically told that you need to make sure you get on the water before the boat ramp opens. Basically saying you were fuckin' late dude get over it. I have gotten over it, have made the necessary adjustments to how I schedule shit and look forward to the next opportunity to get out and get some climbing in. Admittedly I overreacted, thankfully no on else on this site has ever done the same thing jeb

Water, Sounds like I am in the same boat as you when it comes to the hip belts. Have you found any packs that really accomodate you? By the time I find a pack that fits my height I am cinching the hip belts all the way down and sometimes that doesn't even seem to be enough. It wears on the body always carrying the load on your shoulders. jeb

There are many things I think the club does well. I have learned many things from them as well as climb with many members regularly. Someone mentioned that the group going up monkey are club members and could have taught me to negotiate an easy A0 bolt ladder had I asked. Maybe I should have, but that would have just turned that route into a cluster as well. I understand that these students have to pass a skills test to get in, unfortunately I thought that part of those skills would have included negotiating a straight forward pitch of 5.7. I understand how fast these forums can get ugly, obviously, since I came on here to whine like a little bitch. I feel slightly better and should probably move on now. I hope everyone has a good afternoon, and climb safe. jeb

I will have to check out Havana. Never heard of it, making it a good one to put on the list.

Actually there was a pair going up the west face direct route, and if I had any aid climbing skills I would have joined them in a heartbeat, they were moving quite efficiently over the free climbing terrain. I gaurantee the marsupials were loaded considering I could hear routes being called out as I was getting my pack out of the car. Too bad I didn't hear the route I was after. We were actually after First Kiss, which is a little less frequented. I did have trad gear with me just in case, unfortunately never had the opportunity to use it. Again I will say that we were late to the game, I have learned my lesson, and will make the necessary adjustments to my itenerary next time. jeb

Next time I will most likely ask, I usually try to avoid it though. The part that gets me though, and I have seen it many times, is the number of people they will have in their group who genuinely have no desire to get better and don't want to be there. Whether it is rock or snow. I am beginning to feel the club is out to train team members for their climbs, instead of trying to develop climbers who are capable on their own. At least untill the advanced classes. jeb

You are correct Alex, I was late. They had every right to be there and I understand that. It's a pretty healthy hike from the backside to the marsupials, and I am pretty sure I would have found a crowd over there as well. I have taken my lickings on this, I was shooting for an easy climb to bring someone new to multi-pitch. I will take my share of responsibility for my failure, but that doesn't take the sour taaste out. jeb

I am sure many will blast me for this as being unprepared, but so be it. Don’t know how many of you made it to Smith over the weekend, but you may have noticed it a little more of a clusterf*ck than normal. I wanted to take a buddy of mine out for his first multi so we intended on getting there by 8 and be on the rock by 9. This gives us an hour to hike to the other side of the park. We arrive at the parking lot at 8:10 to find a group of about 70 gathered around the back of a pick up while one person yelled names and what routes they were going to climb (and apparently tie up all day). This should have been the first sign. Noticing all the names taped to everyone’s helmet I knew exactly the club I was dealing with and their assault style tactics so we threw our packs on and hit the trail with high hopes. At 9:15 we arrive to the base of the climb to find two teams of three roped up and ready to lead off. One person leading for each group of 3, the first of which saying it should only be an hour and a half to get all 6 up off the ground. I figure add a half hour or so before we start so we don’t climb right up their ass. I will say they were a pleasant group to talk with but in no way were they prepared for what they were doing. 2 ½ hours in and they still have 1 person on the ground and the one on the wall is obviously not comfortable with 5.7 climbing. We bale, only to see every multi-pitch climb 5.8 and under having the same scenario that we just witnessed. The day was toast, by now the front side of the park is it’s normal zoo and I am no longer in good enough spirits to deal with it. Shut out at Smith Rock, didn’t think it possible. So my suggestion to the club, when 50% of your class has no desire to climb on rock and are just there for the snow skills. So be it, tell them to stay home on the rock days or go to the damn gym where it’s normal to struggle for a half hour on 40 feet of easy climbing. On a side note, at what point is it acceptable to ask to go in front of another party. I offer up routes to more experienced climbers all the time, but have never had someone ask to go first. Jeremy

Just climbed this last week. Just a heads up, you want at least 1/2 your draws to be slings and we used a couple double length runners also. Otherwise rope drag and drag you down Have fun, i really enjoyed this climb. Great way to get alot of pitches in. jeb

I don't know this area at all so maybe someone can answer this for me. I was planning to head into Mazama this weekend and while there head over to Liberty Bell, is it time to make new plans or can I access these areas? Thanks in advance, Jeb

The weather has been too nice to be stuck in a gym. Looking for partners for the local areas Beacon, Ozone, Farside, hell even Broughton. I will lead to 5.8 sport or trad, like to climb harder routes depending on gravity that day. I have climbed at all these locations, or willing to search out new ones. Just looking for someone who wants to climb a couple days a week. If things click maybe plan some more adventurous objectives. Jeremy

Stay to the right, enjoy the hike, and lib bell is made of rocks (that fall down). Got it! Seriously though folks, thanks for the tips. Jeb

Thanks Ivan, Nice write up on liberty crack, that's what got me looking at this area. Although that route might be a little out of my skill set I would love to take a run at the beckey route and while there might as well make the short jaunt to concord and give it a go also. Jeb

Can anyone suggest some reference materials for this area. Looking for topo's, route/approach descriptions, you know the usual stuff. Current conditions if anyone has been up there lately wouldn't hurt either, I'm guessing it's dried out and loose on the approach this time of year. Thank you in advance Jeb