Drederek Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 zebra/zion Best climb for the grade in the park. IMO...... Made it into Fred's top 100 That final pitch is one of my all time favorites. How can you not love overhanging jugs with great exposure and good gear. And once you're on top you're sitting on the most excellent belay ledge with a 180 degree view of the madness far below you. Quote
ConorB Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 Ya Thin air is the shit. The beginning is nice if you stick the crack just. Then you can anchor out at the top, from there you can stitch the boulder shoulder towards the upper koala head wall (40' 5.1?). Then there are some burly old anchors that could an Abrams tank. from there its another pitch of sport... gnarliest start. first bolt is above the overhanging arete, hanging over jagged boulders and the belayer. I blew out my toes on my shoes because the rock was so rough in sections. That's one I pink pointed... but not going back to Yeah! that upper part is fun pulling that little roof part. Sharp crimps and tiny edged for feet. the first pitch is a great too Quote
shapp Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) I was always partial to fourth horseman area. You got pack animal, friday's jinx first pitch with crack of infinity second pitch (5.8 splitter yo!), or crack of infinity start if you want somehting harder or a 5.10a diagonal finger crack inbetween crack of infinity and friday's jinx 1st pitch. Another option if of course Solar, which is a bitchen crack and you can start out by climbing Phonecall from Satan bolted pitch. Edited March 7, 2012 by shapp Quote
fgw Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 another random bit...holy trad trinity in a sea of sport routes: toys in the attic (9), hesistation blues (10b), & toy blocks (10a). can tr the 2nd by leading the 1st & can (probably) tr the third by leading some sport (7 or 8) to the left around the corner. always thought that toys in the attic was a great route but the bird shit keeps telling me otherwise Quote
mhux Posted March 8, 2012 Author Posted March 8, 2012 Oh man the ultimate smith trad ticklist just keeps getting longer and longer...I'm super stoked to get out there now! Quote
Off_White Posted March 8, 2012 Posted March 8, 2012 kunza corner I'll second that nomination. Looks like no one has mentioned Trezlar? Has that fallen off the map of popularity? Quote
fgw Posted March 8, 2012 Posted March 8, 2012 Trezlar & knock off sundown (9), tale of 2 shitties (10a) & chimney de chelly (10a). = nice full day Quote
selkirk Posted March 8, 2012 Posted March 8, 2012 kunza corner mmmm, stemming loveliness! with a nice little boulder problem to keep you honest :mmondance: Quote
markwebster Posted March 8, 2012 Posted March 8, 2012 +1 for Toys in the Attic. It's scarier to follow than to lead. After leading it last time, my partner refused to clean it and I had to follow my own lead. Don't tell anyone, but Toys in the Attic stays completely dry in a rainstorm. And the bird droppings aren't that bad, though the smell can be interesting. Man up! Quote
luvshaker Posted March 9, 2012 Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) Kunza....ryhms with "Junza" Don't fortget Chinard's crack, and you must do Spiderman. Edited March 9, 2012 by luvshaker Quote
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