telemarker Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Anyone have any thoughts about jugging on a locked off reverso/atc guide? For instance, the follower wants a belay for a portion of the pitch, then jugs the rest. It would make the most sense to use a reverso-like device, which would lock the lead rope off as soon as the second switched from free to jumaring, and the leader wouldn't have to do any rope schenanigans at the anchors. I'm posing this question because I'm trying to be a better e-big waller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 your idea sounds like the best idea. Maybe tie off the brake line for that once in millenia "just in case" it slips. You could also convert the auto lock belay to a inefficient 3:1 and haul the person up a little bit if the need to assist through hard ground was just a little. I had to do that for my partner when he fell off the roof bit on the second pitch of canary. He couldn't get back to the lip due to rope stretch. But I don't know anything by royal proclamation as I am a e-nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Chris and I used this method last year on Liberty crack, and it was super efficient on the first three pitches. Also, I've been e-climbing some burly shit lately, and want to make sure I'm doing it safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 You two crack me up. You're really enjoying this e-bullshit and princely proclamations, arn'cha? I so love my new autosig. BTW, your proposal sounds good to me, John, and Gene's suggestion of the back-up on the brake line is sound logic, too. But by royal proclamation of Marmot Prince. I am an e-mountaineer and I don't know shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) Chris is rad, He is a e-fire fighter, a e-all around climber and e-bad ass. By royal procIamation, I don't think I knows e-shit except for the above. Edited January 14, 2012 by genepires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akhalteke Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 We formerly used serial Moore Knots (inefficient as hell). We have switched to using the reverso in guide mode and it works marvelously. I am sure there are people that would recommend using another back-up, but hey, I trust my partners' lives with the reverso in the guide mode while bringing up two seconds.... and the functionality is identical. After testing, we could not find a single instance where the orientation of the rig would compromise the brake. We even tried to incorporate some twists that were (theoretically) possible and could not create a failure with a 100KG mass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I think you're fine using an auto-blocking device in this configuration. Do be careful of having two seconds jugging IF the ropes are going in different directions (e.g. a traversing pitch where one lowers out and the other jugs the lead line). If the ropes are loaded a different angles it can cause one or both to not lock in a fall (or if weighted by the jugger). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfire Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Chris is rad, He is a e-fire fighter, a e-all around climber and e-bad ass. By royal procIamation, I don't think I knows e-shit except for the above. I heard that asshat Chris took 30 minutes to get over the Lithuanian roof...he is an e-pussy... and I think the fixed rope with the guide was a swell idea. Tied an overhand on a bight on the slack side and clipped into the anchor. Although that's probably overkill it made me feel e-safe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 A back up knot beyond the ATC seems to make sense especially if the leader starts to shortfix which could result in a different loading on the anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I want to be an e-badass! Where do I take classes. I guess I am in a class all by myself. But seriously this is a good topic. Food for thought for sure. Continue..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I've also used this method a hand full of times. Mostly while in the alpine. It can also be helpful for managing the slack below the jugger. When jugging in the alpine and its chossy sometimes its easier to have the belayer pull in the rope every so often so the jugger doesn't have to manage it. This can slow things down but sometimes its the right call. When the jugger get to an A1 piece or a big ledge he clips in and takes his jugs off real quick and the belayer pulls up all the rope. Obviously the jugger must be secure. I've also done with where the climber starts off jugging but then finishes on easy terrain and its easier to just get a quick belay then continue jugging. Definitely a good trick to have in the bag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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