tvashtarkatena Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 I've got the cash for 5 small cams. I'm going to get 2 Totem Basic (the new Aliens) offsets (they call them hybrids), but they only have 2 sizes. That leaves the other three: I've narrowed the choices between: 3 Totem Basics (Aliens, non offset) OR 3 Metolius offset master cams What would your choice be? I'm leaning towards the offsets (love offsets) Quote
ivan Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 holy shit, the totems look just like aliens! anybody used'em? do they feel the same? Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 They bought the design. The question is do they use the same soft, grippy aluminum as the old aliens which is so nice for Smith and Zion type shite. That I do not yet know. I'd ask Totem. Quote
kurthicks Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 I believe it was Fixe who bought the CCH patent and equipment. Totem is doing a near replica from what I've heard. There's been much discussion about this across teh interwebs. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) Totem basics use 6061-t6 alloy - 6000 series alloys are softer and grippier. Metolius master cams use 7071 - more durable, less grippy. In general, the grippier 6000 alloys work better for small cams with their lower compression force, the 7000 seris (with more compression force and thus greater inherent friction) works better for larger sizes. the totem basics can take body weight with only two lobes engaged. It cuts their fall rating (7 kn for smaller sizes, all four lobes engaged) down by at least half, however. Their softer lobes and two lobe body weight capability tip the scales in the smaller sizes for aid climbing, IMO. The Offset Masters come in smaller sizes, however. Looks like a mix, and I'll probably have to squeeze out the cash for six for complete setup. Edited January 10, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 I've got a black Alien, so I'm thinking: .70HY, .85HY Totem Basics + 00/0, 0/1, 4/5 Offset Masters Quote
boadman Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 I imagine you aid climb a lot? I find off-sets have limited utility when free climbing, unless I'm head pointing a pitch where I have time to fiddle with placements. I wouldn't recommend such a large array of offsets for your average free climber. The totem basics, which are alien clones, shouldn't work any better than aliens with a single set of cams engaged (i.e., not very well). The non-basic Totems supposedly work pretty well with only two lobes engaged. The patent for the alien internal springs design expired, so Totem didn't need to buy the design to start copying them. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the correction, Boadman. The Totem cams will hold body weight on two lobes, NOT the totem basics (aliens) I'm looking at. Yes, my primary focus is building up an aid rack, hence the focus on smaller cams. Lots and lots of pin scars, so offsets are super handy. Plus, I've got more cams in larger sizes. I'm always gonna reach for a nut first, of course, whenever possible. Small cams give me the willies, particularly as pro, and very particularly sandstone, tuff, and other crap. What cams (sizes, types) do you use the most for small cracks? Edited January 10, 2012 by tvashtarkatena Quote
boadman Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 I've got doubles in aliens, blue-red, and I've taken large falls on all of them in granite. I also wouldn't be excited to fall on them in tuft or soft sandstone. Vantage even creeps me out. I've also got gray and purple metolius TCUs that see a lot of use. My personal opinion is that the u-stem cams often suck in the small sizes for pin-scars, because the stem forces the cam into a horizontal orientation, so I'd away from the u-stem options. The cam angle on the metolius cam annoys me. In the really small cams, range is paramount, as the placements are already delicate. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 I've got TCUs and like em, but not for pin scars, for the same reason. Any cam in tuft or sandstone gives me gitters. Sink em deep. Just blew what I thought was a nice placement two weeks ago and nailed Ivan with a shoebox chunk at Smith. Body weight only. Looked perfectly solid. Guess not. Maybe all Aliens (3 Totem basics, 2 offset basics) then? Skip the really small sized Metolius? Quote
ivan Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 buy full sets of both and leave the one you don't like w/ me Quote
layton Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 i like the range on the Fixe Aliens better. get those Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 Do the Totem Basics have less range than the Fixe Aliens or are the basically the same design? Quote
dberdinka Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 I'm a bit of an aid climbing heretic in that my entire small cam rack consists of Mastercams. People seem to diss them but they've worked fine for me on all the "difficult" aid climbs I've done in Squish and Zion. Never felt like there was some critical placement I couldn't get and the cams are durable. While they come in a range of sizes some are FAR MORE useful than others. If I were starting over I would buy in the following order. A set of 0/1 and 1/2 (purple/blue and blue/yellow) Another set of 0/1 and 1/2 Then a 2/3 Then a 00/0 Sometimes I wish I had 3/4 (orange/red) but apparently I haven't needed it that bad. The Totem Hybrids look like the would coorespond to 1/2 and 2/3. I would definitely buy some 0/1 Mastercams if thats the case. Quote
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