Recommend some climbs in the North Cascade.

[mambwe]

A buddy and I will be heading to Washington from New York to have a crack at Mt. Rainier. We are going in August and are planning to head to the North Cascades before we try Mt. Rainier. We are going guided as we have no previous glacier experience. We don't rock/ice climb and haven't used an ice axe. Although we will be practice in the White Mountains this winter. We do a lot of hiking/backpacking in the Catskills, Adirondacks and White Mountains. Also winter hiking in the Whites. We have done some class 3 stuff in Colorado in the summer.

 

Can you recommend some climbs around 8-10 miles in the North Cascades? This is our first trip to Washington and have seen some amazing pictures of the North Cascades.

Edited December 9, 2011 by mambwe

[mattp]

Forbidden Peak by W ridge and Shuksan by the Fisher Chimney's would be good choices. These are not exactly beginner routes, but a competent guide could lead you on them. Liberty Bell's Beckey Route might be worth a consideration, too.

 

Mt. Baker is a great peak, an excellent warm up for Rainier, and often guided - but these other peaks offer something more different from what you will find on Rainier -- including easy rock climbing or scrambling and pointy summits.

 

Eldorado is a classic N. Cascade summit, and it sits right in the heart of the North Cascades. It is worth a visit and the East Ridge or whatever it is called is just a stroll.

[mambwe]

We won't be guided when we are in the North Cascades. Only for Mt. Rainier.

 

Over 90 views and only one response. Some of you must be able to help. If you need any additional information just ask.

[tvashtarkatena]

Mt. Adams (S. Spur) is a good non-glaciated trainer for Rainier.

 

Eldorado is also a good suggestion, although that does involve glacier travel.

 

Mt. Daniel is also a nice trip.

 

Conditions can get pretty icy in August.

 

If you're just looking to get up high and get some training in, Maude is a great trip with a reasonable approach...not much snow in Aug on that one.

[Dave A.]

OK, here's my two cents worth. The amount of time you have for hiking and travel can make a difference in where you go. The Cascade pass area is popular and would give you a few good options. If you're not totally committed to north Cascades I would recommend spending your time in the Chiwawa river area.

Central Cascades but absolutely as scenic as the North. Mt. Maude mentioned above, two other peaks over 9K (Fernow and Seven Finger Jack), numerous peaks over 8k such as Buck and Chiwawa, and tons of good hiking (Buck Pass, Little Giant Pass, Spider Meadows, Carne Mt.). Campsites are usually easy to find.

 

A couple good guidebooks would be Selected climbs in the Cascades Vol.1 and 2 by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield and Climbing Washingtons Mountains by Jeff Smoot. The info in the books should let you decide on some possibilities that would fit your comfort level, you could get more info here on specific routes. All three books should be readily available from Amazon.

[genepires]

without rock / ice experience and minimal glacier experience, this cuts out most of the classic routes. You need to look for scrambling routes such as what Dave and Tvash mentions above. Some other options are

the descent route from the buckner climbing routes. Goes up to sahale base camp area and then over a ridge, through horseshoe basin and to the top of buckner.

You could also do the sahale route while there. sahale arm route in select cascade vol 2 book

black peak - south ridge 4th class. select cascade vol2 book

dragontail peak - up the back side from asgaurd pass.

 

[Wastral]

Since you are from the E. Coast, your off trail skills are probably lacking as well? We have lots of peaks that require off trail work.

 

Black Peak. Some scrambling at the top. 14 miles RT 5000 vertical. HWY 20. Awesome view of North Aspects of peaks. Don't have to go to the top to get the awesome view either.

 

I note that the suggestions given do not fall into your 8-10 miles. In fact, off the top of my head I know of 0, nada, zilch summits that fit this bill of sale. Other than extreme vertical like Colonial Peak with its 7000 vertical. But even that I would bet quite a bit is more like 14 miles RT. Another machismo award peak to do in a day is W. McMillian at 7000+ vertical and about 14miles RT.

 

The kicker is that you don't want rock climbing/scrambling... Good luck in he N. Cascades on that one. Mt. Thornton comes to mind as a possibility. Even that is 10 miles and 4500 vertical. Hidden Lakes Peak also comes to mind as there is a road to 3000? and "only" 4000 vertical.

 

Magic Mountain 5000 vertical and approx 12 Miles RT. True top requires 4th class, but sub false summit all of 10 feet lower is 2nd class. Sahale is a trail and you don't "have" to go to the true top top to get amazing views. That would satisfy around 10miles RT. Vertical is 6000 vertical to the true top. Some say last few feet is class 4. I disagree, but hey to each their own.

 

I am sure there are a few more that I seem to be glazing over. Could just drive to Rainy pass get out of the car and hike either to Heather/Maple or Cuthroat pass. If going to Cuthroat pass keep going a ways till the PCT goes to its high point above granite pass. 6900 whereas Cuthroat is at 6700. That would satisfy your 10 miles. If the Suiattle river road gets fixed, then going up Green Mountain is a great option. Though Hell on a hot day as its all in the open alpine meadow.

Edited December 11, 2011 by Wastral

[mattp]

Mt. Watson and Silver Star are another two possible targets. Watson is a hike/scramble and offers a relatively easy climb to a summit with excellent views (even a kid can get there), and Silver Star, a larger mountain, has a small glacier that is not likely to be icy or risky. Both peaks offer a taste of the North Cascades without requiring real alpine mountaineering skills.

[JasonG]

For a mostly trail ascent to a spectacular viewpoint, I would put a plug in for Ruth Mtn. Very easy glacier travel, to the point where most don't bring a rope. You will want an ice axe, however. Medium day.

 

For something that you probably won't even need an ice axe for by August, how about Crater Mtn.? The old LO site is accessed via a trail that gains 6200'. Some scrambling near the top. Long day.

 

2nd the Black Peak suggestion.

 

Also, for a good scramble near Easy Pass, try Kitling Peak (~8000'). You won't find that name on any USGS map, and will need to get the Green Beckey book. As a matter of fact, you should probably pick up the green and red Beckey books and look at them this winter before going out.

 

Here is a good mapping site where you can turn on topos, satellite photos, etc.: http://www.mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?ll=41.310824,-102.041016&z=4&t=m

 

And lastly, you can probably get the views you are looking for without ever leaving a trail. Try: Sourdough, Sahale Glacier Camp, Hidden Lake Peak, Hannegan Peak, Mt. Pugh, etc., etc. Pick up some used copies of the 100 hikes series (north cascades, glacier peak region) by Harvey Manning and you are well on your way.

 

Have fun, just don't show anyone back east your pictures upon your return!

 

 

[DPS]

+1 on Ruth and Hannegan Peak if you don't want to attempt the relatively easy glacier. Last time I was on Ruth, JasonG was there along with a Corgi that had made the summit.