[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 12/3/2011

[Cornfed]

Trip: Chair Peak - North Face

 

Date: 12/3/2011

 

Trip Report:

John and I left Seattle early enough to get the most out of our short days and hoping to be first on route to avoid icefall. Despite our age and slowness we almost caught the one party ahead of us by the time we reached the base of the SE Ridge/Buttress; turns out they were gunning for the SE so we were styling! With all the time we had we skied over to the base to make sure it was in condition prior to stashing gear and racking up. Bad idea. There was a circus coming through the notch by the time we started gearing up including a party that bee-lined for the base of the route. We were racked and ready to go just ahead of them, but I guess dibs goes to the first party there. Oh well - they were fairly speedy, and the fog and spindrift and chunks we had all day added a measure of challenge to the climb.

 

I popped my cherry, but John confirmed it was "thin" compare to some of his other efforts on Chair. Since I was the rookie, he let me do most of the leading. First pitch was easily the crux with a couple of mixed bulges to overcome. I got one screw at the base of the climb which dinged by 13 cm screw on rock; I think that was the thickest ice we saw all day. All pro on the first pitch was in the rock with one picket up high. The belay was a stretch at about 62 meters -- a rock outcrop to the right with a piton and some good cracks for pro.

 

2nd pitch was a steep snow ramp that took two pickets to a large tree belay in about 55 meters.

 

3rd pitch had a couple of interesting steps, but decent gear in the rock and a couple of small trees. I should have stopped at a big tree, ledge, and rock wall with a piton at 30 meters, but didn't want to accidentally "add" a 5th pitch by stopping to soon. Instead, I continued left around a rock ledge, over a short steep bulge to a 40 meter long snow ramp with two small trees. I slung both trees on the way up. At the 2nd tree, I figured I had to be at about 60 meters. A strong tug on the rope while trying to clip the 2nd small tree (20 meters below the top) proved I was 60 meters out. I waited patiently for John to clean the anchor to start simul-climbing. Upon reaching the top, I popped in a couple of cams and belayed what amounted to pitches 3 and 4 linked together.

 

Both parties of 2 completed the route. Due to losing an hour at the belay, we had to use headlamps from Source Lake to the car. Skiing was challenging despite a few pockets of decent snow in the gullies that were not sun impacted.

 

The party on the SE Buttress appears to not have topped out as we did not see evidence of them on the summit.

 

Gear Notes:

Brought 3 screws -- only used 1-13cm at the base of the first pitch as a belay anchor. Ice is very thin. We had 4 cams which all got used several times. Long slings were helpful to sling trees, roots, etc. 2 pickets. If I did this route again this week, I'd bring an old set of tools. I spent an hour sharpening mine tonight after severely dulling them looking for good purchase on what amounted to swinging into 1/4: of ice. Lots of dry-tooling.

 

The route was very thin, however not all that steep so feet were more important that tools and the footing was very good all day.

 

Approach Notes:

Alpental Valley has plenty of snow. We were surprised how much snow had fallen since the big rain event a week ago. Snow conditions all the way to the base of the route were very solid. We boot packed the last bit to the notch in the ridge below the SE buttress.

Edited December 5, 2011 by Cornfed

[LostCamKenny]

nice report, cornhusker... thanks!

[CamelJockey]

Nice trip report! I was wondering how the route is shaping up.

 

Question for you - when we did it last year, we could not find the 2nd rap station in the rap couloir. We did a single rope rap off the pitons at the top, but on the way down we could not find the 2nd rap station so we downclimbed. Were you able to find it, and if so, where is it and how far down from the top is it?

[Cornfed]

There was a 2nd rap station at about 25-27 meters from the top. There was a pin there with a ratting sling hanging from it that someone had cut and left there. Teh snow was so deep, stable, and difficult to move in, we walked down from there, but an icy gulley would have me wanting to rap again.

[unklehuck]

@Camel Jockey: There is a 3 pin rap station at 35m that I set a few years back. As of 12/4 there is brand new cord and a biner there. It sould be accessible in just about any snow conditions.

[CamelJockey]

Thanks guys - much appreciated. And thanks for setting up a station Unkle Huck.

 

[wetslide]

note: the rap stations are optional right now. You can easily down-climb it. I soloed the route today and it is indeed thinner than last year at the prime. Still worth the outing.

[sparverius]

Nice work. Good to meet you guys up there.

[DPS]

note: the rap stations are optional right now. You can easily down-climb it. I soloed the route today and it is indeed thinner than last year at the prime.

 

And cue insults for the subtle cheast beat in 3..2..1..

 

Nice work on the solo in early conditions. The one time I attemped to solo Chair I watched Bart Paul sketch on the first pitch. Lowell Skoog and Mark Kroese were cued up behind me. I muttered something about 'discretion being the better pat of valor' and slunk off.

 

And cue insults for the not subtle name dropping in 3..2..1..

Edited December 6, 2011 by DPS

[genepires]

if I read his post right, I think Colin B soloed the descent route.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

if I read his post right, I think Colin B soloed the descent route.

 

Which can be quite mellow if the snow conditions are right.

[Khartoum Wood]

very cool TR I hope to climb it again when the weather is good we made the summit in a white out the last time I was up but I still loved the climbing.

[wetslide]

ACTUALLY, i downclimbed the descent route dude. Read it again. I soloed UP the North face. I can see why you would think that though.

[DRep]

ACTUALLY, i downclimbed the descent route dude. Read it again. I soloed UP the North face.

 

Now, did you want some sort of prize, badge of honor, or affirmation from the rest of this site? A humble man would say he climbed the North Face...

[wetslide]

? Which is exactly what I said ?

 

What is wrong with saying you soloed something?

 

Isn't that being specific?

 

Pardon my specificity!

 

And since you are condemning me I assume you've soloed it, no?

[DPS]

Couldn't leave well enough alone.

[wetslide]

And seriously, if I wanted to chest beat about anything I'd tell you I broke my leg on the descent and then skied the whole way out. But then again, that would just be chestbeating.

[DPS]

And seriously, if I wanted to chest beat about anything I'd tell you I broke my leg on the descent and then skied the whole way out.

 

Are you making fun of me now? That acutally happened to me once.

[wetslide]

No seriously it just happened to me too. Sucks. Ironic though.

[DPS]

Breaks heal fast when you are young.

[Dannible]

Hold up, sorry for furthering this thread hijack (but I mean, what's done is done, right?), but did you break your leg while downclimbing the descent gully? That would suggest that the rap is not quite optional like you first said. In cornfed's picture it looks downclimbable because as I remember the top bit is the steepest, but it would be nice to have some clarification in case I find myself up there soon. Sorry about the leg.

 

Thumbs up to all of the people who have been using the nice weather and to cornfed for letting us know how things are shaping up.

 

 

[wetslide]

ya well time to fess up. I did something stupid. I glissaded with crampons on. Incredibly stupid I don't need you to tell me.

[Crack]

Long day at the office -please don't ban this nutjob again...too much entertainment during the week.

[genepires]

summitchaser to the rescue for internut entertainment!

 

I think thread drift is ok as long as it is informative and entertaining, so please Colin, tell us the whole story from the glissade to getting home?

[counterfeitfake]

COLIN

 

STOP SHITTING ON OTHER PEOPLE'S THREADS