flashclimber Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 On Friday Doug T and I went out to Index to give Model Worker Full a redpoint attempt. We had both toproped the route a few times over the past weeks. Each time we were going to give it a lead attempt the weather shut us down. It was either too hot or we got rained off the route. AccuWeather predicted 65 degrees and 20% chance of rain on Friday. This time we knew we had a fighting chance of making the redpoint send. I went first, then it was Doug's turn. He got into the first few moves and then the rain started. He came down and pulled the gear off the route. We gathered our stuff and went to JT's house for a bit to wait out the rain. About an hour later the sky cleared up, the rain stopped, and the sun came out. Back to the route so Doug could send. Doug took off and styled the opening moves (several 11b moves in a row, including a ridiculous high step). Doug making the high step move Then Doug took a nice rest at the mid anchor. (We replaced the mid anchors and upper bolts on the route the week before. Solid SS) Just above the mid anchors is a nice handcrack for about 20 feet. Doug made it up the handcrack with no problem. Next comes the 11c face climbing moves into a 10d face move and directly into a corner. Doug said he felt solid through this section (I knew this would be my crux. If I was gonna fall anywhere it was gonna be here). Doug made it up to the corner, then paused. Moving your feet up through this section is the mental crux move. It’s a lyback/pinch move. Doug finally caught his breath and moved on through this section. The rest of the route is 10c face climbing with a small crack to protect with gear. Congrats Doug! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Way to go, Doug! A proud send, indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 was watching you guys that day from princely ambitions. Great job and looked solid. For those who don't know, that second piece of gear (1st photo in the hole) is a levered carabiner. Or so I was told. sweet trad goodness! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Nice work on the send. I thought I heard you replacing the upper anchor after the lead? Nice job on that too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Yes Doug! I was the guy that you worked that project w/ you last weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougT Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Flashclimber is being a bit modest. Over the years we've had a lot of common projects as our climbing ability has been very much comparable. It's been very much the norm for both of us to send the same project on the same day with the person winning the Paper,Scissors,Rock for first lead getting the first send. Flashclimber went first and as expected, led through the first pitch like he was climbing 5.6. The upper crux was more of a problem for him than me but he decided that the easiest way was to just leap for it. So leap he did, and nailed it. Once he landed the hold, it was certain he'd climb the rest. Funny thing about the climb, it was on my 4th attempt that I finally got a chance to climb it without the rain to shut me down. 3 times I've either been on the climb, or about to start and been shut down by rain. Sherri: It really is nice to check it off the tick list. Wayne: Let me know when you wanna lead it. I'll give you a catch. genepires: Yup, You've described the second piece well. Honestly, that placement is as solid as any other on the route yet only protects 6 feet of climbing. kurthicks: Not replacing the anchor... but something really fun to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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