sobo Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 I still have a Whillans though it only sees use as a non-OSHA approved harness for roof work. I'd probably loan it out if someone wants to experience the old days, and might even be able to dig up a rack of pins and a pair of Robbins blue boots... OW, a true Renaissance Man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 What a great thread! I've always wanted o do a day of "old style" ice climbing, with wool, leatehr and wood involved. May be we should do a day of trad shoes, hexes and swami belts in Leavenworth before the snow flies. I should be safe enough if Sobo comes along Josh and I did laps on Givlers a few years ago with only a small rack of hexs. It was way fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 (edited) What a great thread! I've always wanted o do a day of "old style" ice climbing, with wool, leatehr and wood involved. May be we should do a day of trad shoes, hexes and swami belts in Leavenworth before the snow flies. I should be safe enough if Sobo comes along Josh and I did laps on Givlers a few years ago with only a small rack of hexs. It was way fun. Guy Waterman wrote about his and Henry Barber's 50th?? anniversary ascent of a classic ice route in NH (Pinnacle Gulley, Odell's gulley?) wearing period clothing and using period climbing equipment. A couple of young climbers with modern gear gave them the stink eye, apparently thinking they were stuck behind a couple of old coots, but Guy and Henry easily outpaced the 'paper tigers'. Edited September 27, 2011 by DPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 What a great thread! I've always wanted o do a day of "old style" ice climbing, with wool, leatehr and wood involved. May be we should do a day of trad shoes, hexes and swami belts in Leavenworth before the snow flies. I should be safe enough if Sobo comes along Josh and I did laps on Givlers a few years ago with only a small rack of hexs. It was way fun. Guy Waterman wrote about his and Henry Barber's 50th?? anniversary ascent of a classic ice route in NH (Pinnacle Gulley, Odell's gulley?) wearing period clothing and using period climbing equipment. A couple of young climbers with modern gear gave them the stink eye, apparently thinking they were stuck behind a couple of old coots, but Guy and Henry easily outpaced the 'paper tigers'. Now that woulda been sump'n to see. A couple of old farts blowin' the doors off of some hotshot kids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 I should be safe enough if Sobo comes along Am I gonna have to catch you again...?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Better to have what you need and not need it than not have what you need and REALLY need it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Just to remind you old timers, I am only 25 and I learned on passive gear, at Index no less. So it isn't an altogether lost art. Sadly, no swami belts or lycra were to be found. We still respect the oldin days. Proceed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 Here are a few pictures of our day at Midnight. I was accompanied by the incomparable F., or, as he is known on this board, klondike. I shot this one from just below the roof. At my belay on top of Easter, we traversed 50 feet right to the top of ROTC, this is Mr. Klondike at the ROTC rap anchors. My el cap rack on the ROTC belay ledge where Mr. Klondike took a TR lap up ROTC. We were thinking about leading it, but the hour was late. ROTC is one of the loveliest cracks I've ever seen anywhere on the West Coast. The views up at Midnight are considerable prettier than Snow Creek Wall. It's one more rap (with a 70 meter rope) down to the ledge at the base of Easter Overhang. Now I just have to figure out the gps location so I can come down from the road at the top of the ridge. Back in the day, it was quite fast if you found the right trail, and a complete wash if you got lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 I did it yesterday, and found it to be a fun pitch. Very old school and spicy. There is no top anchor. Once a few moves up the chimney it gets easier, and I didnt use anything over a # 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Nice one Uncle Mark! I came down right behind you guys at Castle, and figured you and Fletch had just climbed EO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Well done! That would be brave to lead it with nothing over a 4. I have this pet theory that we are born with a certain measurable amount of cohones. They don't rejuvenate, and once you use them, they are gone. The longer you climb, the more you use up. And after 34 years of continous climbing, mine are almost gone. Hence the el cap rack I carry everywhere. Note this is just a theory... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 The longer you climb, the more you use up. And after 34 years of continous climbing, mine are almost gone. Hence the el cap rack I carry everywhere. Note this is just a theory... the theory has merits. Based on probability alone, the 1% WILL eventually catch up to you with enough time spent in the game. The 1% being that you will not be in control. If you are prepared by having the pro at your feet and everything else squared away to, then there is a long life ahead. The 1% caught up with many soloists, base jumpers and extreme alpinist where that kind of backup is not feasible. and the mathematical way of writing it P(death while climbing given that one has large cahones) spanning 0 to 3 years = medium but ignorance pulls one through P(death while climbing given that one has large cahones) spanning 0 to 10 years = low enough as one has learned just enough to keep safe P(death while climbing given that one has large cahones) spanning 0 to 34 years = high enough to second think the actions P(death while climbing given that one has small cahones) spanning 0 to 23 years = still fucked a rappel and made off relatively easy but on a backboard This last probability is mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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