Miura sizing?

[dberdinka]

Having climbed in nothing but sloppy Mythos for years now I'm finally joining the 21st century and getting myself a pair of these lace-up, toe-turned-down, cotton-lined Miuras.

 

Some people claim they barely stretch and you should only go down a single shoe size. Others claim to wear them 3 sizes small and that they stretch a ton.

 

As I see lots of people climbing in them I figured I could get lots of opinions.

 

So....if you were buying a pair primarily for multipitch trad like DH-LA, Cruel Shoes to the Grand, Iconoclcast, Ellation! heh heh how far down would you go?

 

FYI I wear

 

41 Mythos

43 Exum/Boulder

43.5 Nepal

size 10 foot (and apparently growing)

 

Thanks

 

 

 

[telemarker]

I just bought the Miuras VS, size 45, with my normal street shoe size a 46, and am very glad I did so. They are stretching and forming to perfection. An added bonus is that cotton lining that takes a lot of the bite out of the break in period.

 

And as a side note: Having been convinced that 5.10 stealth rubber was the standard, I have been blown away with the XS vibram rubber's performance.

Edited September 8, 2011 by telemarker

[Rad]

I was once convinced to get these two sizes too small and they were so painful I couldn't wear them. Perhaps one size would have done it. In any case, down-turned shoes seem best suited to micro-edging and overhangs. I find it really hard to smear in them because they are so stiff, and foot jams were excruciating. DHLA and the Grand (haven't been on your Ellation yet) are mostly smearing and footjams, so I'm not sure you need a downturned shoe there. But others may disagree.

 

I like the Scarpa Techno for multipitch trad as it is pretty good at edging, thin jamming, and smearing. The shoe I love best and save for special occasions is the the Evolv Pontas. It's great at all of these plus heelhooks etc.

 

Some may say shoes need to hurt to work well, but I find it hard to focus my mind on climbing when my feet are in agony.

 

Whatever you get, consider buying at REI so you can return them if you are unhappy. Good luck.

[boadman]

I'd probably get them a size up from your mythos. 41.5s or 42s. They don't stretch nearly as much as mythos.

[Kimmo]

as per rad's input, i'd consider if the miura is the right shoe for what you are doing.

 

perhaps a new pair of mythos?

 

or one of the myriad velcro slippers that i personally favor for more moderate multipitch; it's nice to slip out of shoes quickly at belays.

[EastCoastBastard]

For what it's worth, I wear size 44 LaSportiva Trango Extremes, 41 Barracudas, and 41.5 Miuras. They have stretched nicely and fit quite well, I think. I would have liked to go up a half size, but the 42 I tried on felt sloppy. While trying on shoes at a couple different shops, I felt like there was some significant variation between the numbered size and how the shoe felt on my foot.

[jfs1978]

another fwiw...

 

i wear slightly larger than 45 in street shoes and mtn. boots and I'm one of those people that likes to go down to 42 in Miuras. They are fantastic at anything needing techie footwork, including a lot of thinner crack.

 

Yes, they are initially painful on hand size cracks. They break in but are never all that comfy on that size.

 

I also never use them for an all day alpine shoe. If I did I'd go with a 43. My all day crack shoes are either TC Pros or LS Nagos (cheap!!!) both of which fit comfortably at 42 after break in...and (surprisingly - for the Nagos) let me climb at my "crack limit"...

[dberdinka]

Thanks for all the input. Again it's all over the board. 1 size? 3 sizes?

 

My buddy swears by them for everything. He wore them up Slab Daddy this summer....

 

I tried 1 size down and it seemed a little on the loose side. Going to go 1.5.

 

 

[telemarker]

 

My buddy swears by them for everything. He wore them up Slab Daddy this summer....

 

 

Definitely, they work well for slabs too, since the downturn does eventually flatten out more with use.

[Tyson.g]

"I like the Scarpa Techno for multipitch trad as it is pretty good at edging, thin jamming, and smearing."

 

I am with Rad on this one.

A great shoe IMHO.

Of course I just came into the 21st century from a pair of super stretched La Sportiva cliffs.

 

[Sol]

yo darin, for sure your miura's will stretch out, quite a bit eventually. I buy miura's in 3 or 4 different sizes.

 

street shoe size: 11

Miura's for bouldering 40.5

Miura's for hard routes 41

Miura's for hard multipitch 41.5

Miura's for long routes 42

 

a bit obsessive for sure, but the right fit for the right job can help make it happen. I keep a few pairs resoled so that I always at least have a tight, fresh pair and an older loose pair...

[frankstoneline]

I wear a 10 street size, bought miura's in a 43, wish I would have gone down to a 42 i think, maybe even a bit smaller. I've been recently climbing in a pair of katana laces which I've found incredible for all sorts of climbing. I think a 42 is what they are and they are comfortable enough to wear for several pitches but tight and sporty enough for tough pitches. My preference over the miuras for that sort of stuff, though YMMV.

[kurthicks]

Here's what I've got in my current Sportiva quiver Darin:

Muiras 41.5

Mythos 41.5

Nepals 44.5

Boulder (approachies) 43.5

Spantiks 44.5