Z-Pulley Issue

[pioneerian]

Quick question on an issue I've been having when setting up my Z-pulley system. My prussik knot between my anchors and load is getting pulled through my primary pulley and not obviously stopping at the pulley as it should. Does anyone have a fix for this other than buying a different pulley?

 

Would appreciate any incite on this as it is driving me crazy.

[CaleHoopes]

What pulley model do you have?

 

You can use many things to equip your ratchet. The best solution for a pulley off the master point would be to have a Prussik minding pulley like the Petzl Mini. However, there are many options: Belay device (should mind), Consecutive Pear Locking Biner's (should mind - one on the master point, one on the prussik loop used in a bachmann knot - both going the SAME direction so that the Large loop of the Rachet biner rams into the Small loop of the Bachmann carabiner). These are the best minding examples I can think of.

 

Hopefully that makes sense (difficult without pix).

[pioneerian]

Sorry, CAMP large mobile. I've heard the mini's bend and wanted to steer away if that was the case. Thanks though. How's the friction with the ATC or biners?

[Stefan]

I don't use prussiks for various reasons. I think ascenders do a better job. This is another reason why ascenders are better--they do not go through the pulley on your z or c systems.

[Water]

i use a bachmann knot just around a typical old oval to help since for instance have this issue on the pully i have when using 8mm rope. works great

[Dave7]

Most of the time i use a tibloc instead of a prussik as my ratchet as I seldom use a pulley at my master point. Instead i use my pulley at the prussik i am hauling on. The friction isn't too bad and i can usually haul someone of my equal weight by myself. Simple and effective for me.

 

 

Edited August 5, 2011 by Dave7

[genepires]

have a atc between the prussik and pulley. works great and no need for heavy single purpose ascenders.

[Alasdair]

I dont use a pulley and I make sure and watch my prussik so it does not get pulled through to the other side of my system.

 

 

[Jeff W]

Use a prusik minding pulley (PMP) at the anchor. When you pull the rope through the PMP the prusik breaks free as you pull. When you stop pulling the prusik locks off and you reset the other pulley - which does not have to be a PMP. Be sure to reset the non-PMP before pulling them too close together.

[kurthicks]

or use:

Garda Hitch

ATC-Guide/Reverso in autoblocking mode

 

Alternately, here is a photo of the ATC/Prussik combo in use that was mentioned above. (bottom strand is load strand/climber):

 

Of course, carabiners are only 50-60% friction efficient...

but carrying a pulley that you never use is 100% inefficient...

 

a reasonable size-up of rescue pulley systems can be found here

Edited August 7, 2011 by kurthicks

[Dave A.]

Don't plan on using the garda hitch without practicing first. I've tried using it several times in self-rescue practice and never found it easy to use. I finally decided I just don't like it and won't use it unless I can't figure out something else.

[Buckaroo]

That's not autoblocking mode. In fact in this pic the belay device is doing exactly ZERO of anything.

[kurthicks]

That's not autoblocking mode. In fact in this pic the belay device is doing exactly ZERO of anything.

 

I changed my wording to make it more clear as to what was going on in the picture.

 

It's not in autoblocking mode...it's being used to substitute for a prussik minding pulley, to prevent the Prussik hitch from pulling through the carabiner...which is what the original poster was asking about.

[pioneerian]

Great stuff folks, thanks!

[goatboy]

Great point by Kurt: Carrying gear you never use is 100% inefficient.