[TR] Mt Goode - NE Buttress 7/24/2011

[joshenj]

Trip: Mt Goode - NE Buttress

 

Date: 7/24/2011

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the NE Buttress of Goode this past weekend. We approached via Bridge Creek TH, started hiking around 9am and kept marching. The trail part went by prety fast and we soon found ourselves at the North Fork Creek Crossing. It was just over knee high in places and was a little spooky where the water was really flowing. Once accross we made our way up the slabs just to the right of the falls, and wound up camping around 5400' The following day we got an early start and headed out for the buttress. We had to make a commiting move onto the buttress as we manuvered ourselves across the moat. Once on the buttress itself we belayed the first pitch, then simu-soloed the route up to where it gets steeper and belayed a few more pitches and soon found ourselves on top. We decended via Black Tooth notch down the SW Couloir, circled the entire mountain back to the Storm King/Goode Col. Made the rap to the snow and soon found out there was no relative easy way accross the bergshrund. We wound up going far left to some rocks and set up a rappel having to leave a piece to get down, luckily things worked out and the shrund was passable in that area. It was 9pm at this point and we hurried to decend the glacier. Darkness soon caught up with us and found ourselves going from snow to rock to snow, then finnaly the last rock outcroping cliffed us out. We said screw it, made a super sketch rappel on one nut right next to a waterfall. From there it was a matter of finding camp. Not an easy task for us, it was so dark and everything looked the same. We end up having to sleep in the bushes that night, only finding our camp about five minutes away just a little lower then we thought. The hike home felt long and agonizing, but the rain gods were on our side at least and just as we hit the car it started to sprinkle then turning to heavy rain.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Poles are nice for the river crossings

Brought a med rack to #2, would only bring a small rack to #1 next time.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy trail, slabs are easy to find after the river crossing

Edited July 28, 2011 by joshenj

[ivan]

nice - glad we weren't the only ones epicing on the descent

[CamelJockey]

NinJosh! Great work man! Unplanned bivy, eh? Great work and I hope you guys weren't too cold that night.

[wayne]

Nice one Josh!

[BirdDog]

nice! goode is definitely on my list. heard there is good bivy site on top - yes?

[mattp]

Consider taking comfortable fitting rock shoes and climbing right back down the route. No hassle. No complications. No big pack. Seriously.

[Sol]

nice! goode is definitely on my list. heard there is good bivy site on top - yes?

YES! Not to be missed, the highest point in North Cascades National Park.

 

[Dannible]

I'd suggest bivying on the summit and descending into Park Creek; it's pretty easy even if you end up bushwhacking. I and several other people I know have enjoyed unplanned bivys thanks to Storm King Col.

[BirdDog]

nice! goode is definitely on my list. heard there is good bivy site on top - yes?

YES! Not to be missed, the highest point in North Cascades National Park.

 

 

thanks, now it's on the top of my list!

[Sol]

I enjoyed the NE buttress climb then Storm King col circumnavigation descent. It felt very alpine and quite committing on that rap over the col.

[ivan]

I enjoyed the NE buttress climb then Storm King col circumnavigation descent. It felt very alpine and quite committing on that rap over the col.

X2

[LukeShy]

Great job Josh! Glad it all worked out for you. We'll have to go back for Storm King sometime.

[therunningdog]

Thanks for the TR! That summit bivvy has got to be top-5 in the the Cascades!

 

Hey, did anyone climb the NEB THIS PAST weekend? I am wondering how complicated it is becoming to get onto the toe of the buttress. I'd love to go repeat that one this weekend...