richard_noggin Posted August 5, 2002 Author Posted August 5, 2002 Ok preplaceing draws on a sport climb might be somewhat acceptable but I feel like i cheeted if I do it so I don't. Preplaceing gear on a trad climb than claiming a FA is really lame, I mean your giveing the next guy that climbs at that ability the impression that the route will go onsight easily for a gearmaster.I think they should call that a brown point cause that is a shity thing to do. DFA please stay and hang on this board we really need your input.If you know me you would know my comment about sporto's was facetious comment. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 Ah, yes. If it's about being facetious, Dr. Flash Amazing and yourself will be getting along just fine. As long as you solemnly swear to admit that sport climbing is way rad. Aloha, Dr. Flash "Arguing is dumb. Let's all get along like on 'Barney'" Amazing Quote
fredrogers Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It's basically the accepted means by which one progresses in sport climbing, as the emphasis is on pushing ones physical limit, not the technical mastery of quickdraw placement. /QB] I sport climb and I trad climb. I like both. but "the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear... Quote
Off_White Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by fredrogers:/QB]"the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear...[/QB] well, ya gotta hold on too. Fred, yer spot on, but you should consider losing the cardigan... Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 quote: I sport climb and I trad climb. I like both. but "the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear... Here, let the Doctor spell it out: it's S-A-R-C-A-S-M. Quote
fredrogers Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:I sport climb and I trad climb. I like both. but "the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear... Here, let the Doctor spell it out: it's S-A-R-C-A-S-M. Well here, let me spell something out for you: Sarchasm- the distance between your humor and the intended audience... Quote
Geek_the_Greek Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 Hmmm, slightly 'a propos', but I've always thought that in terms of bragging rights (which is what all this is about), anything other than an on-sight ascent when trad climbing is kind of jokey. Once you've grovelled your way up a trad climb, you could just pencil yourself a little memo about the gear required and where the good placements are for next time. On any subsequent "redpoint" attempts, you then leave the rack at the bottom and bring only the 3 or 8 or 32 pieces you need, and basically you're sport climbing - or at least pinkpointing. (No, I don't do this, but as far as redpoints go, hey, it's fair game) Sure, it's harder to place gear on lead than clip bolts (or draws), but it's waaaaaaay harder to shake your way up something on-sight while dragging along a boat anchor of a rack, hoping to figure out how to stay alive with the gear you've got and the placements you see (or not) in front of you. NEway, I guess for this reason I think the "bragging rights" point of sport climbing is redpointing or on-sighting, but the "bragging rights" point of trad climbing can only be on-sighting. And yes, for you boy/girl scouts out there, the point of climbing (pour moi) is fun and cool scars. "On belay? Better than being off belay" Quote
TimL Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Geek the Greek: NEway, I guess for this reason I think the "bragging rights" point of sport climbing is redpointing or on-sighting, but the "bragging rights" point of trad climbing can only be on-sighting. I thought the point of all climbing was onsighting? Why can trad climbing "only" be onsighting? [ 08-05-2002, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: TimL ] Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 5, 2002 Posted August 5, 2002 No, no, no, no. The point of climbing is scoring enough points to prove that you're hella super way exxxtreme to the Mountain Dew max. That's what they said on the TV, anyway. Quote
plexus Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 Sniff, I miss Capt. and Dru...they would have some nice fodder for this. As for pinkpoint, redpoint...really does anybody on this board actually care? I mean I'm sure about 100 of us are sponsored climbers needing to flash some routes for our money train. And I expect some nise wisecracks about sponsors and horsecocks and snafflehounds outta you trask, you must fill the void Dru and Capt. created with their vacation departure Quote
allthumbs Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 I'm not worthy. Dru will be back tomorrow. Quote
plexus Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 Holy shiite Iain!! 500 posts since April?!! You should get an honorary title for that. Dat's some beaucoup spraying...must eat plenty o horsecock to keep the energy up and the fingers limber. "How do you train for splitter fingercracks?" Spray like mad at cc.com!! Quote
allison Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 HalleluYA! Some somewhat positive discourse about sport climbing! Yahoo!! Welcome to our little cesspool, Dr. Flash! I rode a motorcycle for many years, and I used to hear this same sort of crap from Harley riders because I rode what they called many things, my least favorite probably being a 'rice rocket.' I heard a lot of derisive remarks, and didn't always get the 'courtesy wave' from them on the road, but you know what? At the end of the day, everyone had had a pretty similar experience, and everyone had fun doing something exciting and challenging. Live and let live, baby! Quote
Off_White Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by allison: I rode what they called many things, my least favorite probably being a 'rice rocket.' I'm more familiar with the term "crotch rocket." Is that more acceptable since its less race specific? Its certainly more to the point of what upsets the Harley riders, unless you're going to step up to that Louisiana built motorcycle that's powered by a helicopter turbine..... [ 08-05-2002, 08:32 PM: Message edited by: Off White ] Quote
sk Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 In my experience the harley riders are not in the least "upset" Dad told me a storey once about being at a light next to a crotch rocket gunning the engien and pretending he would race... the guy on the other bike took off like a bat out of hell and ran the next light, as my dad slowly took off and passed the guy who was then getting a ticket. It's all about STYLE baby Quote
Off_White Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sk: It's all about STYLE baby Wait a minute, are you trying to bring this back to a climbing topic? Clip that Harley off to a bolt with about 30' of slack chain.... Quote
Don_Gonthier Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 DFA, first I have nothing against any type of climbing or tactic that you chose to use to climb a route. I do like to climb sport routes. If I have to stick clip pre place gear on Gumby what does that matter to you. I would never say I could lead it. What bugs me a bit is that its cool for some and not for others. I've climbed at Smith many times over the last 12 years and have gotten a lot of shit in the process. If I left my draws on a 10d sport route I was working, do you think they would be there when I came back a week later? If you talk about removing eyesore gear from a climb, stuff that's been stting there for years, its 'Ohh thats Billy Bob Tight Pant's gear. If you take it down we'll hurt you'. I've been told I was a gumby for placing extra gear where all the other climbers don't and I've been told I was a danger to everyone else because I didn't place enough. I even remember when I was just a climber. Until one day when I was standing at the base of some 5.9 crack on Mesa Verde wall with of all things, a rack gear. Then I hear 'Oooh, Trad Climbers' like we were circus freaks. I was marked from that day on. For a lot of folks, the grade has little to do with why we climb. If a climb is 5.2 but looks cool, I'll do it. If its 5.11 and I have to pull on gear, who gives a shit. I won't feel to much different about the climb if you tell me I don't have the red point. Quote
allison Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 Michelle, spare us your second hand rumors about what you heard from your dad about motorcyclists at a stoplight and focus on the 'trad/sport/we're all climbers' thing we've got here. It's all about that right now, in this thread. I was trying to make a point. Quote
icegirl Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 crotch rocket = term used to describe motorcycles... rice rocket = considered by some a derogatory term used to describe high powered (and some not so high powered) motorcycles produced outside of the united states. (at least that's what my mom told me, and she used to ride a bike... ) Similar to the term rice burner when talking about cars. Now, about that climbing.... Quote
allison Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 Oh, yeah, right thanks DogBabe. You are most excellent moderating type. May I raise the Fremont Bridge in your honor. Local ethics rule the debate. If your local area doesn't have any ethics, get people who climb the rock together to figure that stuff out, and if that doesn't work, write the guidebook, and then you get to make stuff up! And can I just add one thing: Quote
sk Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by allison: Michelle, spare us your second hand rumors about what you heard from your dad about motorcyclists at a stoplight and focus on the 'trad/sport/we're all climbers' thing we've got here. It's all about that right now, in this thread. I was trying to make a point. you may have been trying to make a point, but you are wrong. As usual p.s. i get to call you granny now, 'cause thats the ONLY person who calls me MICHELLE [ 08-05-2002, 10:45 PM: Message edited by: sk ] Quote
allison Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 Feel free to send me a PM edjamacating me on motorcycle culture. I'm sure that you have heard secondhand way more than I know. Quote
sk Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 IMHO the only way bikes relate, are there are those who ride as a pass time and those who ride as a way of life. I think the same holds true in rock climbing. You can take that to mean whatever you want, and place your self in the continuum any where you want. I climb because I love to, not so I can tell other people about what I climb. FYI dear old dad gives everyone who rides the casual nod. Quote
icegirl Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 Sport, trad, rockets of all sorts... Whatever... Seems to me climbing ethics change with the wind, and whomever one is hanging out with at the moment... (and what climbing rag hits the stands first this month) I know a few hard man climbers that pull on plastic (and are damn happy to send that .12+ problem in the gym) when the rain starts and are waiting for the ice to form... on the same token, some sportpups who say if they can't send 5.14, that they are going to go learn to trad, and be happy if they can learn to climb 5.12 crack... Whatever makes one happy, just climb safe. The mountains are there for all of us... (just had to do it, couldn't help self) Quote
Don_Gonthier Posted August 6, 2002 Posted August 6, 2002 DFA aren't you a little far from home? I think you should run along home before one of the big kids steals your lunch money. Come on! quoting Alan Watts as an authority on climbing ethics. Get real. 'Oh, I got the pink point'. 'Oh, Oh, I think I'm having a redpoint'. How gay. Quote
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