[TR] Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/12/2011

[LukeShy]

Trip: Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier

 

Date: 6/12/2011

 

Trip Report:

My first TR on this forum, this was a BOEALPS ICC alpine outing

 

Short Version: We simul-climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier on Sunday. The route was in great condition. We crossed below the ice cliff, climbed on the far left side. Took a semi-sketchy snow bridge across the 'schrund and straight up to the top. The cornice is just a short vertical snow wall, easily climbed even in sun softened snow. Decent down the Sherpa Glacier was soft snow and the schrund was easy to navigate thanks to the boot pack from the other climbing teams.

 

Detailed Version: We headed out at 10 am from the Stuart Lake trail head and headed for the first switchback turnoff on the Stuart Lake trail. Once we turned off we met up with Phil (cc'er "lowlife") and Anastasia. (great to meet you two!) They were headed up to try the Stuart Glacier Couloir. We all headed down the climbers trail, quickly turned to snow and then made the big creek crossing. We found a really nice log to walk across, about 20 yards above where we intersected the creek.

Colcuck Argonaut Sherpa and Stuart

Creek Crossing

 

From there it was post hole heaven as we made our way along Mountaineers Creek, following a faint snowshoe track. At the 4800' where the creek splits we took the right branch and followed closely along it. More post holing, more over and under downed trees. We got to the steep part and ran into Tom, Daniel, and Wayne heading down from their NW Face climb . (Nice work guys!) We finally made it to camp and set up camp on the sweet bivy rock that they told us about. We set up camp, and kicked steps up to the moraine to check on the route conditions - looked great, game on!

Pre-Climb stoke at camp!

The route lookin' good

 

Alarm came at 2:30 am, damn that's early, didn't start moving till 2:45 am, headed out at 3:45 am. Following the preset boot pack, we headed up the right side of the moraine to stay out of the ice cliff fall line, put on crampons, and roped up. Rick lead the first part as we simul-climbed up to the flat above the ice cliff. He placed a bunch of pickets and 3 screws. Snow was nice and hard and made for smooth climbing to up above the ice fall.

sunrise

roping up

Rick on lead

 

From there Sean took the lead and headed right around some obvious crevasses and then back towards the middle of the 'schrund at the snow bridge. He belayed us in from there and Rick took the lead again. He crossed the semi-sketchy snow bridge and headed straight up the steep snow slope. Snow conditions were still great. Once out of gear he set a belay on the right wall and belayed us in.

Heading up to the 'Schrund

Crossing the 'Schrund - photo by Jenny

 

I took the final lead up the right final gully and headed straight up towards the middle of the cornice, which was no more than vertical snow. By this time the sun had been baking the final 50', which had turned it into mush, but kicking steps in it wasn't too bad. The final hump over the lip was nice because the snow on the south side was nice and solid. I belayed the team up, we high-fived, took a few minute break and headed for the summit.

Topping out - photo by Rick

belaying the team up

 

The final push was good, snow was soft but there were plenty of steps to use. Took a nice break on summit and enjoyed the spectacular views.

On the false summit

Summit Ridge

Jenny on the summit

 

We headed down past the false summit and got to the top of the Sherpa Glacier. We roped up there and headed down, snow was good for the most part and the boot pack helped through the harder snow pack areas. Crossing the 'schrund was easy, just follow the trail over the big snow bridge that traverses from right to left. From the toe of the glacier, we glissaded back to camp.

 

 

We headed out and were back at the cars at 6:20 pm where we ran into some other buddies and they offered us beers! Big thanks for that guys!

 

It was a great climb, thanks Rick, Jenny, and Sean for the great weekend!

 

Flickr Set

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

We only used pickets and screws, all of the rock was buried under lots of snow.

 

Approach Notes:

The hike in was fine, no snow to the Colchuck Lake turn off. Some snow to the first switchback, but melting fast. The big creek crossing is easy if you find the big log to walk across. Lots of post-holy goodness up to the upper basin and camp.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

How long you think the 'schrund will be passable?

[LukeShy]

Perhaps a week or so not much left of it, it was only stable because it was nice and frozen snow. There is a nice snow patch on the left hand side that you can traverse left around it all. We were going to go that way if the snow bridge didn't look safe enough when we got up to it.

[JasonDowns]

Nice work, Luke! Looks like you guys had some pretty nice conditions

[YocumRidge]

It was nice to meet you guys too.

Glad you made it!

[BootsandPants]

Cool climb guys, nice work! It was awesome to talk to you guys over the radio from the other side of the plateau.

[AdamZuber]

Great trip and great photos. Me and a friend are going this weekend. It sounds like the snow is melting really fast. I was there 3 weeks ago and there was snow at the trail head.

[LukeShy]

Glad to hear you made it to mitochondria100 congrats on climbing the SGC!

 

Thanks AdamZuber, you should be good, might be a bit more ice on the lower glacier and a little more challenging crossing the 'schrund, but you should be able to make it - good luck

Edited June 14, 2011 by LukeShy

[LowLife]

Good work up there. Sweet photos, too. Had fun hiking up there with you guys on saturday!

[Josh Lewis]

Way to go, you make this look like a walk in the park.