JasonDowns

Im sorry, Dana...cant imagine what you're going thru. Didn't know Jim well but he seemed like a great human. I imagine the whole Boealps club is struggling with this. Take care of yourself, my friend.

No prob...glad it was of some use to ya As for Klawatti, it looked like it may be moated out already. When we climbed Dorado Needle a couple weekends ago, it looked iffy. I hear the SW buttress (I believe thats what its called) will go. It heads right out of Klawatti Col. From what I remember it had some interesting moves off the snow but other than that looked to be class 3/4. When we climbed Klawatti last year, we took a gully that was climbers left of the base of the south face...that was sketch and I don't recommend it. Good luck and I look forward to your TR!

Great work and nice TR! That was one of my favorite trips...such a memorable camp. The views were amazing.

Good work Luke! Im jealous! We were tent bound all day Saturday at the Eldo East Ridge camp waiting for a break to go after Dorado Needle...never came. Ended up calling it a day. Poured about two cups of water out of each boot by the time we got back to the TH. Nice job on getting some sun on an otherwise dreary weekend.

Looks like a great day in the mtns! Nice work, Mock!

Good work, Aaron!

I think Luke said it was one of your suggestions, Aaron....Glenfiddich special something or another. Tasted delish.

Great day in the mtns with Luke and Scott! Those two were animals...i definitely need to up my training. Too much lift accessed skiing this winter...lesson learned.

Good work guys (and girl)!!! You can thank Luke and Scott for those nice steps to the summit

Nice work, Samona!

Nice work and great pics, Eric!!! Completely beyond my abilities but fun to read about

Great TR, Pat! Looks like youve had a nice summer so far

I have no problem loading pics into your database, it just seems to poop out on me a lot and after a few failed attempts, its just easier to link to Flickr or Picasa. Ill continue to work on getting those pics into your gallery, as i do appreciate it when others do the same. CascadeClimbers is an amazing resource, we are lucky to have it

Thanks, Samona! Great report out on Triumph, looks like a fun route

Tried that just now and still no luck...I must be a complete moron! I just updated the TR with a link to my flickr acct. One day ill get edumacated on loading pics, until then this will have to do.

Awesome, thanks Jon. Ill make those edits to my TR as soon as I can. Appreciate the help.

Apparently the pics didnt work....again! Could someone tell me how to link photos? My dumb ass cant seem to figure it out. In the mean time, see pics at my flickr account: Mt Formidable Pics - FLICKR

Trip: Mt Formidable - South Face Date: 8/26/2011 Trip Report: Climbed Mt. Formidable with my dad this past weekend over a 3 day period. Amazing weather, sketchy scrambling and unbelievable views highlighted the trip! We left Seattle early Friday morning, arriving at the Cascade Pass TH at about 8:30a.m. The hike up to Cascade Pass was uneventful as usual and took roughly 1 hr 30 mins. From there we headed up towards Cache Col. The traverse to the Cache Glacier was a bit sketchy as usual, but went without any issues. We arrived at the base of the glacier about 45 mins after leaving the Cascade Pass. The route up the Cache Glacier is in fine shape with the exception of getting up onto Cache Col...I went left up the moat while my Dad took the right hand option up steep snow. From Cache Col, we got our first look at our objective. Such an unbelievably gorgeous area...Formidable standing tall with its intimidating north face staring at you all the way to camp. We made quick work down to Kool Aid Lake and continued on past the Red Ledges to make our camp just south of Arts Knoll. The ledges are in fine shape but the consequences of a fall transitioning from the snow to the ledge is pretty real...I just kept telling myself to not look down into the moat. After getting past the Red Ledges, we walked about another 10 mins until we found a flat spot at the base of Arts Knoll. Made camp here for the next two nights. The next morning we woke up at 6:30a.m. and were walking by 7:15a.m. We made the descending traverse to the Middle Cascade Glacier, put on crampons, and took off towards the Spider-Formidable Col. The glacier was pretty straightforward so we didn't rope up, although the consequences of a fall could be serious as several very large crevasses have opened up. We got the col around 9a.m. and took a short break. Getting off the col and descending towards the south face was pretty easy as the loose gully that Klenke talks about was completely snow filled. Expect fairly steep down climbing for about 200 or so feet. From there we started the long up and down slog to the south face of Formidable. We got to the first saddle and decided to follow the moat down the gully instead of heading straight down the snow, gaining access into the first basin. Our next objective was to gain the cleaver and enter into the most western basin. We followed up the heather slopes and crossed over just below the snowfield that guarded the upper slopes of the south face. We followed the ledge option detailed out in Klenkes summitpost description. This was not as easy as we had thought it would be due to some snow in the gully he talks about that breaks up the ledge system. We managed to negotiate this little obstacle but not without some hesitation...its crazy how "easy scrambling" can sometimes strike the fear of god into you! Once getting over this little issue, we continued west until we were right below the summit. From there it was glorious rotten, loose 3rd/4th class rock all the way to the summit. The descent was easier than we had expected and we started the fun up and down required to get back to our camp at Arts Knoll. Time to the summit was around 5.5 hrs from camp and round trip was round 11 hrs. Not the longest of days but definitely one that kicked my ass. The hot weather didn't help but I guess its better than the alternative that we usually get to enjoy here in the PNW. Got back to camp around 6p.m., made dinner and went to bed. The next morning we woke up at 7a.m. and left camp around 8a.m. Back to the car by noon. Overall it was a very rewarding trip with plenty of amazing views, great weather and enjoyable (?) climbing Pic here at FLICKR: FORMIDABLE - SOUTH FACE (LEDGES) Gear Notes: (2) 8mm x 30m ropes (only used for two rappels), harness, small amount of pro (not used), crampons, ice axe, trekking poles and iPod. Approach Notes: Approach is pretty well laid out. Refer to summitpost if you need info...its all very well described there.

Looks like a great adventure! This summer has been good to ya, some great climbs Rick!

Link to Flickr pics:

Trip: Copper Peak from Holden Village - SE Glacier/East Face Date: 7/31/2011 Trip Report: Climbed Copper Peak with my dad, Rick Wire and Phil Nicoletti this past weekend. Left Fields Point on Saturday morning, arriving at Lucerne at 11:45 am. Got to Holden Village right around 12:30pm. Filled up with water, payed for our transpo up to the village ($15 round trip) and signed in at the Hike Haus. Left for Copper Basin around 1:30pm and arrived around 3:15pm. Camp was snow free in the basin but the bugs were something else! Once the sun went down and the fire started, they all but disappeared. We ate dinner and hit the hay early for the next mornings climb. Woke up at 5am on Sunday, started hiking out at 6am. Crossing over the creek was no problem as the log crossing was no longer fully submerged. Worked our way up through the timber, towards the snowfields below the SE Glacier. Found the "notch" that Klenke talks about in his route description but it was mostly snow covered. Made for some exposed steep snow travel. Once off the notch, we traversed the lower snowfield and up towards the rocky, heather bench that would allow us access to the NE Ridge. After attaining the NE Ridge, our mouths dropped. It was a mix of exposed snow and rock that definitely looked harder than class 3...NOT.WHAT.WE.WERE.EXPECTING. We set up a fixed line to descend a 15-20 ft. exposed "bump" on the ridge. This is when we discovered the easily accessed ledges along the east face. We made a rising traverse along these ledges until we were in the middle of the east face. From here we ascended exposed class 3/4 blocky rock up to the summit of Copper. We lounged around the summit for a bit, taking in the limited views and cruising through the summit register which had some familiar names. We followed our up route for the descent with one exception. At the beginning of the ledges we rappelled to the upper snowfield using our (2) 8mm x 30m ropes. Saved us a lot of time and stress trying to retrace our steps along the NE ridge. From there is was pretty easy sailing to the moraine where we took a long 3+ hr break so we didnt have to deal with the bugs down in the basin. The following morning (Monday) I took off early for Holden (needed my americano) while the other three took off for the col that leads up towards Buckskin. We all met up around noon in Holden and had a nice lunch with the Lutherns....not too bad of a meal for $7! Enjoyed a ton of their fresh baked bread...was the best part Caught the bus down to Lucerne at 1:45pm and loaded the slow boat for Fields Point. Gear Notes: Harness, some slings/prussiks, (2) 8mm x 30m ropes, helmets, ice axes, trekkiing poles. Next time im definitely bringing bug spray too. Trying to figure out the picture thing. Thought i loaded them but apparently i didnt. Will work on that or post a link once i have them in Picasa. Approach Notes: Follow Klenkes approach information detailed out in summitpost

Nice work, Luke! Looks like you guys had some pretty nice conditions

I was up on the 19th and found the bowls to be in fine shape. Top 400 vert from the summit was definitely survival skiing but off the ridge lines, in the bowls, the skiing was almost too deep! My tired legs could barely handle it Just remember to pay for your sno park pass for marble mountain TH...my fine was $52 bucks!

Nice trip report, Samona! Love the Vanilla Ice...way to represent, son!

Josh, no worries. Another time for sure. If you guys are willing to let me in on your explosive fun, ill provide all the canisters you need!