JosephH Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT. AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T AN AREA WHERE YOU CAN SET UP TOP ROPES FROM ABOVE AND THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES. IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER WHO CAN LEAD ROUTES AND ESTABLISH TOP ROPES IF SO DESIRED OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE. [ Bill, if you guys have a different opinion or put up something more appropriate at the east or west ends, please post up that info, thanks ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 nice telegram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Joseph, your cap Locks is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT. AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T A TOP ROPE AREA, THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES, AND IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED LEADER OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE. [ Bill, if you guys have a different opinion or put up something more appropriate at the east or west ends, please post up that info, thanks ] I think that the slings are generally difficult to see from the upper trail unless you head down looking for them, and they are often critically needed as they are the rap points for climbers doing the routes so they should stay right where they are. Thanks for putting the heads up out there for the next group that might make this mistake. Furthermore, there are plenty of loose rocks on the hill to access the top of the cliff that could conceivably kill someone below if one goes. I think Tim pointed out in the book that the objective dangers were higher here, the skill level needs to be higher and to not come looking for easy climbs as the grades are deceptive...or something along those lines. Hopefully you were able to help them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 ....It is a lazy mind that does not look for more, and then makes up shit to fill the void. ? wuhhh uhh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 nice telegram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 that was Josephs response to a post I made on the Taco, so I thought it was appropriate here as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Ahhh, I was out of that loop. Now it's funny. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1526970&tn=0&mr=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT. AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T AN AREA WHERE YOU CAN SET UP TOP ROPES FROM ABOVE AND THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES. IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER WHO CAN LEAD ROUTES AND ESTABLISH TOP ROPES IF SO DESIRED OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE. Except that my post on ST was entirely on topic and wasn't interjected into a safety-related thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT. AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T A TOP ROPE AREA, THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES, AND IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED LEADER OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE. [ Bill, if you guys have a different opinion or put up something more appropriate at the east or west ends, please post up that info, thanks ] How about just a "climb at your own risk" sign? That way you dont coming off sounding like an elitist. Because at the end of the day people are going to do what they want and are surely not going to not set up top ropes simply because of your online warning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 and are surely not going to not set up top ropes simply because of your online warning Agreed. The sign should read "Do not not set up topropes are prohibited." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Olson's guide is now driving traffic of people with little outside climbing experience to the crag. This thread has ZERO to do with being elitist, 'climbing at your own risk', or people toproping per se. Setup all the TRs you want - by having someone lead a route to the anchor to set it up - which is specifically what this thread is about. Do not attempt to setup a TR by approaching the cliff edge from the road as it's simply too dangerous both for the extreme risk of coming off the edge and, as Bill states, knocking the many loose rocks down onto people below. Nothing 'elitist' about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcg Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) Do not attempt to setup a TR by approaching the cliff edge from the road as it's simply too dangerous both for the extreme risk of coming off the edge and, as Bill states, knocking the many loose rocks down onto people below. For clarification... does the above apply to all of Farside or only to the Dropzone area? Many thanks to those who developed this area and left it mainly trad. Edited June 14, 2011 by pcg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 What happened at the Farside that made it such a allegedly dangerous place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Joseph, your cap Locks is on. YOUR CAP LOCKS IS ON. FIXED IT FER YA STEVO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Dave, you the man! Haven't seen you in a long time, are you ready to rock Beacon when it opens? How goes it mon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Dave, you the man! Haven't seen you in a long time, are you ready to rock Beacon when it opens? How goes it mon? I've been hiding w my head buried in the sand but looking forward to getting my fat ass out when it opens. I have not been climbing at all since it closed. Maybe you can rope gun me up Das Corner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Olson's guide is now driving traffic of people with little outside climbing experience to the crag. This thread has ZERO to do with being elitist, 'climbing at your own risk', or people toproping per se. Setup all the TRs you want - by having someone lead a route to the anchor to set it up - which is specifically what this thread is about. Do not attempt to setup a TR by approaching the cliff edge from the road as it's simply too dangerous both for the extreme risk of coming off the edge and, as Bill states, knocking the many loose rocks down onto people below. Nothing 'elitist' about it. The elitist part is you telling others what to do or not to do....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) That was kind of my take on it. Haven't heard the near death story though, so my thought is maybe somebody came rapping thru the trees and almost beaned Joseph with a pine cone. He hates pine cones. Edited June 14, 2011 by stevetimetravlr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Yep..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Nobody dropped anything on anybody. It's a pretty straightforward proposition - wandering around on top of the cliff at DZ/FS looking for or attempting to set up a TR is an incredibly dangerous proposition and should be avoided at all cost. Jesus, as far as online firepower goes it's like tweedle dim and tweedle dum when you two post up - a polycephaly of dunces. What's elitist is the incessant need to publish routes and crags in [unnecessary] guidebooks where ahead of time you know it's going to drive inexperienced climbers to crags and then not be clear about the objective hazards involved. It's both elitist and irresponsible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 DENALI DAVE! LONG TIME BUDDY!!!! I wuz wondering where you went. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 i haven't yet seen the new olson guide but it must be some book if it is causing hordes of inexperienced climbers to forsake the gym and go running madly through the trees looking for toprope anchors at the dropzone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Dave, I don't think you need any help getting up the corner, what you talking bout Holmes! So maybe what Joseph is trying to say in his typically incoherent fashion is that a designated top of the crag trail and multiple sling anchors with rap rings and such need to be installed at the FARSIDE, so that everyone can enjoy a good top rope without endangering the lower trail hikers and top rope belayers? I think Tim Olsen should have to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 So maybe what Joseph is trying to say in his typically incoherent fashion is that a designated top of the crag trail and multiple sling anchors with rap rings and such need to be installed at the DROPZONE, so that everyone can enjoy a good top rope without endangering the lower trail hikers and top rope belayers? I think Tim Olsen should have to do it. JH....dont you think that withholding crag information is elitist? "its my crag dont touch it, and if you do here is how you should climb and act"...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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