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mikeadam

Hard Core TR

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Last night I summited Mt Si via the exposed and dangerous haystack route. I wanted to share some of my revelations along the way so everyone would know I kick ass. And I wanted to promote GU (although I didn't have any).

 

I got an alpiney start at about 630 PM. I took off at a near run until about the first switchback where my back started hurting. A fat girl was behind me though and there was no way I was going to let her pass me so I walked pretty fast until I stopped to drink some water.

 

Arriving at the top I skirted some gapers (GUFFAW!) with big packs and made my way for the *technical* climbing. My Hurricane GTX's soaked up all the water around making it increasingly dangerous as I caught sight of the entrance gulley. Looked steep and wicked hard, but I had to do it for Marcel!

 

I began climbing sometimes using my hands, but I made sure that I ALWAYS had two points of contact. I saw the wicked route that Mike Stanton and Ray Borbon sent and thanked god I wasn't on that imposing buttress with the big tree sticking out. I pulled over the top on some tenuous stair climbing like bucket jug rhino holds and arrived on the grass benches. "This must be JUST like Jberg I thought to myself".

 

I pulled over the shoulder and nearly fell as the 2 MPH gusting wind nailed me head on. I stared down deeply into the lights of North Bend and wondered if anyone could see me? I licked my already sweaty palm (the exposure was enormous!) and slicked back my hair just in case.

 

I took stock of all the beautiful clearcutted wilderness and noted several forest service roads I planned on cranking up & down on my ski touring gear next season.

 

I was a bit worried about the descent. I wasn't sure I could reverse my moves so I decided to move down the ridge a bit. A moved down the ridge a bit. It was hairy to say the least but I don't want to pound my chest here. Suffice to say I was gripped stupid!

 

Finally arriving at the alpine benches I traversed back to the saddle between Si and Teneriffe. I had to keep going I knew but I was exhausted and my nalgene (PLUG! [Eek!] ) was empty. The frigid wind nailed me but I kept pressing on and soon found myself at the top of some knob called Teneriffe. It was now 930 and I knew I was in trouble! With all the costly rescues lately I felt that my safety was in my own hands and I had to assume responsibilty for my actions. The best plan I decided was to bushwack straight downhill. This provided much entertainment as the Tika (PLUG [Razz] ) spread it's soft ambience in like a 2 ft circle around my feet. Tarzan would have been proud!

 

I skirted the edge of civilization and avoided dogs once in the valley bottom. I walked back to the Si trailhead and found the crux of the route was not getting nailed on the Mt Si road by angry drivers.

 

Home at 1139. I was king of the hill for a day.

 

Proudly!

 

Ma

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quote:

Originally posted by mikeadam:

Last night I summited Mt Si via the exposed and dangerous haystack route. I wanted to share some of my revelations along the way so everyone would know I kick ass. And I wanted to promote GU (although I didn't have any).

 

I got an alpiney start at about 630 PM. I took off at a near run until about the first switchback where my back started hurting. A fat girl was behind me though and there was no way I was going to let her pass me so I walked pretty fast until I stopped to drink some water.

 

Arriving at the top I skirted some gapers (GUFFAW!) with big packs and made my way for the *technical* climbing. My Hurricane GTX's soaked up all the water around making it increasingly dangerous as I caught sight of the entrance gulley. Looked steep and wicked hard, but I had to do it for Marcel!

 

I began climbing sometimes using my hands, but I made sure that I ALWAYS had two points of contact. I saw the wicked route that Mike Stanton and Ray Borbon sent and thanked god I wasn't on that imposing buttress with the big tree sticking out. I pulled over the top on some tenuous stair climbing like bucket jug rhino holds and arrived on the grass benches. "This must be JUST like Jberg I thought to myself".

 

I pulled over the shoulder and nearly fell as the 2 MPH gusting wind nailed me head on. I stared down deeply into the lights of North Bend and wondered if anyone could see me? I licked my already sweaty palm (the exposure was enormous!) and slicked back my hair just in case.

 

I took stock of all the beautiful clearcutted wilderness and noted several forest service roads I planned on cranking up & down on my ski touring gear next season.

 

I was a bit worried about the descent. I wasn't sure I could reverse my moves so I decided to move down the ridge a bit. A moved down the ridge a bit. It was hairy to say the least but I don't want to pound my chest here. Suffice to say I was gripped stupid!

 

Finally arriving at the alpine benches I traversed back to the saddle between Si and Teneriffe. I had to keep going I knew but I was exhausted and my nalgene (PLUG!
[Eek!]
) was empty. The frigid wind nailed me but I kept pressing on and soon found myself at the top of some knob called Teneriffe. It was now 930 and I knew I was in trouble! With all the costly rescues lately I felt that my safety was in my own hands and I had to assume responsibilty for my actions. The best plan I decided was to bushwack straight downhill. This provided much entertainment as the Tika (PLUG
[Razz]
) spread it's soft ambience in like a 2 ft circle around my feet. Tarzan would have been proud!

 

I skirted the edge of civilization and avoided dogs once in the valley bottom. I walked back to the Si trailhead and found the crux of the route was not getting nailed on the Mt Si road by angry drivers.

 

Home at 1139. I was king of the hill for a day.

 

Proudly!

 

Ma

Mike, what a great TR. I am glad none of the dangerous cougars known to infest the mountain, attacked you and that you made it down woithout getting gravel in your palms.

 

Did you have to take Diamox up there?

 

Did you see any Poles polishing their polish sausage?

 

Did you have to rescue anyone? Or tell anyone how dangerous their behaviour was? Like smoking weed in a hut or not wearing helmets with their name written on it?

 

[laf][laf][laf][big Drink]

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Mike:

 

No diamox? Hypoxia? Dizziness? It's not an epic unless you have a physical malady.

 

Anyway, way to climb responsibly; good job!!

 

Greg

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I forgot to mention that I had a MUIR HUT moment at the top (for my homies) which greatly increased my balance and confidence overall. Recommend this medicine for all serious routes!

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Nice TR, Mike. Surprised to find such a triumpant ascent in 'Spray' rather than in Trip Reports, where such a gem should be archived.

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Hate to come down on you MA but somebody has too. I was surprised and saddened as I read your TR. How can you be so irresponsible? While you may consider it fun to risk your life so brazenly think of the many lurkers who may/will get the wrong idea. First: You did not register your ascent. Second: Imitating "Twight's climb all night in one big push" style was uneccessarily dangerous. Would it have killed you to bivi? Third: Solo? What would have happened if you fell and started a chain reaction? What if the large woman passed you and then fell herself? You would have suffered a long night under her thigh.

 

Such behavior gives the sport a bad name. Remember all that equipment you have can never take the place of experience.

 

PP

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Mike, you forgot to impress us by stating "car to car". Glad you returned safely without having to use a cell phone to call search and rescue.

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Funny how I have read so much talk about Mt. Si and may have even sprayed a bit about it myself but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or what is involved with climbing it. [laf][laf]

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quote:

Originally posted by iain:

Funny how I have read so much talk about Mt. Si and may have even sprayed a bit about it myself but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or what is involved with climbing it.
[laf][laf]

Iain just for you here is a picture of Mt. Si:

67_Waddington.jpg[Wink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

Originally posted by iain:

Funny how I have read so much talk about Mt. Si and may have even sprayed a bit about it myself but I have no idea where it is, what it looks like, or what is involved with climbing it.
[laf][laf]

Iain just for you here is a picture of Mt. Si:


Don't be trying to pass off the forbidding Pilot Buttewand (The brown spider) in Bend for Mt. Si.

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that's the funniest shit I've read in a while! [laf][laf][laf] You boys and girls play safely this weekend.

 

Good job getting down alive mike!

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Peter, et al,

 

I wanted you to understand this was no hair brain stunt done on the spur of the moment. Or motivated by feelings of inadequacy in the realm of the greater climbing community.

 

I know for all of you it's difficult to understand my "summit or plummet" mentality, but I feel that I must be the standard bearer for the future. All balding, thirty somethings will appreciate my efforts.

 

I do train pretty regularly when I'm not lying on the couch. Just last week I cranked off like 4 two arm pullups in a row, then and moved some boxes around.

 

As a reward to myself for making it back in one piece I bought a MARMOT PRECIP COAT AT PROSKI IN NORTHBEND (PLUG [big Grin] ). This will also insure that I look cool, and give the impression that I actually know what I'm doing out there, because I have lightweight rain gear on while hiking the trail.

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Mikeadam'marmot I doubt the truth of your report and I demand photo documentation before I'll say good job. Until then, I'm underwhelmed.

 

Dru,

I mistook the infamous "stink bivy" on the buttewand for the death bivy on the eiger. Both are intimidating w/ obvious objective hazards. [Roll Eyes]

 

-iain

 

[ 06-07-2002, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: iain ]

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MIKE,

 

I ALSO CALL BULLSHIT ON YOUR ASCENT. I WAS IUTSIDE YESTRERDAY FOR A FEW MINUTES AND IN NO WAY COULD I HAVE GOTTEN HOME WITHOUT USING THE 4WD ON MY TRUCK TO GET OUT OF THE PARKING LOT....

 

CONDITIONS WERE ABSOLUTLY OUT THERE...NO HALF INTELLIGENT MAN, WOULD OR SHOULD CLAIM THEY MADE AN ASCENT OF MT SI IN CONDITIONS LIKE THIS....

 

I CALL BULLSHIT AND WITH 24YRS OF LYING TO GET INTO WOMENS PANTS, I SEE RIGHT THROUGH YOUR TACTICS.....

 

WOMEN DON'T/WON'T/CAN'T LOVE A MT SI LIAR!!!

 

NOW IF YOU WOULD HAVE CLAIMED YOU MADE LIL' SI, I MIGHT START TO BELIEVE YOU!!!!

 

you lyin asshole!!!!!! and the pullups fib sold you out....i know oyu cant pull your fat ass of the couch most of the time!!! let alone dress yourself!!!

 

what a tool!!!!

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I wish you guys would stop picking on me or I am going to take this all personally and send private messages threatening to kick your asses before I slink down behind my computer screen and register more avatars!!!!

 

GRRRRR! [Mad][Wink]

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silly boys all of you

 

cheryl crow says "lie to me, I promise I'll believe" Like we don't know what you all are up too [Wink][Razz]

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at least with all that exposure you get excellent cell phone reception [Razz] so you can call a friend with a topo to talk you down from the haystack. way to crank, bra!

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As I was riding down the North Fork last week, I realized that ther was a sudden urge to explore the North Facing rock on Mount Si. i know that there is plenty of rock climbing to be had but I also know that the rock is a far cry from granite. Is this the kind of place that my crack bolting skills come into play? Does any of the professional route makers know of any potential for this un or semi explored wall of choss? Is this hush hush even though you can see it clearly from the road?

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there is a route up it called the north pillar...like .10 or something...

 

i think that there are access issues and since it is in a protected area, you will need to contact the dept of natural resources....

 

so i dont think your crack drillin ass will be able to touch it....

 

thank god!

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That route is called the Si Pillar and goes at Grade IV 5.10+ by Andy Dappen and Martin Volken. Volken was encouraged to not report the climb and encouraged never to return again by DNR. He (Volken) cleaned all the rappel points, but there is a topo for the route at ProSki in North Bend. There is still a bunch of independent lines on Garfield South Face (possibly 18 pitches or more) and the west face of Russian Butte may still be untried.

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