ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 Not now, but before the original post, for sure. Also, is there a differnce between the NW and N side? I thought the 1904 NW route went to the top. At least it did when I climbed it. But maybe it doesn't count as it is on the NW side not the N side. and you've done'em both too! don't think mikes done the spike route. stone soup or falcon stew or whatever we wanna call it goes up the far left side of that nw face, w/ a great gulf of choss and moss and eventually an ocean of poison oak seperating the soup line (ha!) from the spike route's topout (which is horrid compared to the later) joe, you seem to forget that i have actually adopted the central columns on the s side and cleaned plenty of them myself (& w/ you) AND don't bitch about the closure, making me i would think ALMOST (for you) the ideal beaconite - you sure you're not bitch'n just b/c you're bored and its february? Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 From the small sample I see here - most folks appear to be ok with the line in question given its location. thanks - can i give you a crisp 2$ bill (no higher praise from a wahoo) and my thanks? Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 You're correct. I shouldn't judge the temper of the general opinion of climbers based on the posts here. Not being a local I think I will just STFU. Cheers. dammit! a big reason for posting up the stoke for others to come do the thing and give it some validity, plus to bring in some not-irrational outside opinions...sigh. well, i still owe your 2$, but will gladly belay you up the whole thing Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 your fear of others doing hte same at beacon is not irrational, however. i think the clear policty of no new bolted routes on the s side stands undisturbed however. Only time will tell. But this is a serious chink in the wall as it makes it that more difficult for the BRSP to justify turning down someone else's request for a high fixed pro count (sport) line anywhere on the rock, i.e. the South Face. you're being hysterical - the BRSP, should that wonderful organization ever ACTUALLY come into existence, will include people who do this route and wouldn't have problem drawing lines between the ethics of the 2 sides - do you think i wouldn't start a conversation w/ some stranger heading down the s side trail w/ a drill? Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 Sorry to hammer on this, but all of the new routes going up at Smith or anywhere for that matter use bolts and pins for protection, not for steeping on. I challenge you to give me a list of modern routes going up at crags that use aid ladders to ascend blank rock. I like to think I'm good a good climber dork when it comes to cragging beta and I can't think of anywhere where new routes are going up using bolts for aid climbing. I like climbing trivia so if someone can list of some modern bolted aid routes, I'd like to hear it. This style of route would be out of ordinary at any crag. I would bet that 1,000s of new routes go up every year, how many of them have bolt ladders on them? Not many, or none(?) Not saying it is bad or good, but a quick glance through a guidebook would confirm this. Bottom line, cutting edge FA done in a style that most folks don't understand. Maybe a new trend is back? I'm going to step it up next year and drill a few pockets to create a moderate free route to the summit, I'm awful at aid so I need a few pockets. -Nate i've never climbed w/ you nate but i'd really enjoy letting you take me up this thing free, and i mean that w/ zero sarcasm - i will honestly accept your censure if you proclaim the thing afterwards as over-bolted - again, i say, there really is no "bolt-ladder" on stone soup (especially if you take "mike's lark" noted on the topo) Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 No, Beacon isn't the Valley or Smith - it's closer than both and a very special and unique resource that shouldn't be abused in this way for the sake of anyone's entertainment and amusement - it shouldn't be turned into a locals' Six Flags. I don't care how you guys arrived at the decision, it was a bad one that sets some utterly lousy precedents. If you guys can't even simply acknowledge the fact that this is a full on retro 1975 pound up of a line that didn't really exist without a application of a huge quantity of fixed pro then it's pretty damn hard to have an honest conversation around the motivation and rationale for doing it. And if you were being honest, you'd admit you got into some circular thinking around needing a new group project and wouldn't this be grand entertainment that kept on giving. But hey, there is nothing about this line that moves climbing forward at Beacon or anywhere else. You all seem totally unwilling if not incapable of acknowledging that if this line went up at Smith, Index, the Diamond, the Captain, on Cannon, or at the Leap you'd get an immediate and intense negative reaction. And that's because the day of putting up routes like these is long, long past. You want to do climb lines like these? Enjoy the ones that were put up when this was acceptable and we didn't know better - putting one up today? Weak and there's simply no way around that. The only place it's apparently still acceptable is inside the bubble of the Beacon distortion reality field. Personally, I think you've guys have treated the stone badly for your own entertainment value. Having a good group time together digging out and putting up lines out DZ or Cothedral? Priceless. But that sort of fun shouldn't have then been directed at and applied at Beacon just because it's close and it's winter - sorry, it deserves way more respect than that. It's called disagreeing. Grow up. Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 Are you trying to claim that if you tried to put up a route with a topo like that today at Smith (say on PLW), ...it wouldn't be met with howls of derision. Really? actually, corvallisclimber (who you've praised and donated gear to, as generously you have to me as well) did just that w/ the jim anglin memorial route on the plw (though he didnt' leave fixed pins b/c waht fool would consider repeating it)! and before you talk shit about his route i'd highly recommend going and looking at that wonderful thing before you threw it on the bonfire as well) Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 Be proud you found a way up the north side of Beacon. He didn't "find a way", the way was clear - forcing an aid line up it wasn't rocket science, it just took perseverance and hard work. aren't you like 60 years old dude? seems to me old people are always rattling off about how such things are like, ya know, virtous? can't some goddamn red chinaman please come put up a purer route for me, jesus!?! Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 Are you trying to claim that if you tried to put up a route with a topo like that today at Smith (say on PLW), ...it wouldn't be met with howls of derision. Really? actually, corvallisclimber (who you've praised and donated gear to, as generously you have to me as well) did just that w/ the jim anglin memorial route on the plw (though he didnt' leave fixed pins b/c waht fool would consider repeating it)! and before you talk shit about his route i'd highly recommend going and looking at that wonderful thing before you threw it on the bonfire as well) i bet corallisclimber would disagree with this, this is just a hunch. i don't know the guy at all but my inner pink says Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 tyler hates beacon for the very reason on display in this thread by a pretty small # of folks still, that olde boy likely could be tempted to abandon the friendly confines of his native heath to come climb on the best stone in his state! ha! but will he fall as did i on his fishtaco dihedral? anyone wanna take a bet? Quote
billcoe Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 *this was moved here in error by a mod and unable to be deleted* Quote
112 Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 *this was not moved here in error by a mod and is able to be deleted* Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 how about " the world according to harvey dent" Quote
billcoe Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 *this was moved here in error by a mod and unable to be deleted* Quote
112 Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 *this was not moved here in error by a mod and is able to be deleted* Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 more like a shroud, but instead of an image of jesus, it would be the face of the joker.... Quote
kevbone Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 He didn't "get to it first", it's been looked at lots of times, but of course most folks were looking at it for free lines, or lines with an absolute minimum of aid, not a retro-aid job. Being "looked at" and actually being done are totally different things. I do know that I and others top roped and cleaned the first pitch well over 10 years ago. Ivan and crew added bolts to a pre done top rope. Oh well....i could care but I and letting it go because I had ten years to go back and do something with it and chose to climb elsewere. I know nothing about the upper pitches so I cant comment. As far as a bolt ladder.....who cares? Seriously? Its not like smith were you can see the bolts. You go Ivan and crew.....ps....the name sucks. :kisss: Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 so it's cool that he put a bolt in the second pitch that i did 11 years ago???? Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 You go Ivan and crew.....ps....the name sucks. :kisss: competition's on for one that folks will like - you, jim n' the whole world seems to hate it and i honestly don't care - watchu got? Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 so it's cool that he put a bolt in the second pitch that i did 11 years ago???? shall i post the several pages of pm's where you n' i tried to sort out who did what and i showed total faith n' desire to honor what you'd done before? i wanted you to approve, and it's only been since you've thrown a fit. what should a reasonable person make of that? for me, i want to be a good man but am puzzled by your recent remarks... Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 ivan, i honestly don't think what you did was on purpose, i think i just covered my tracks very well. perhaps i had a bit more experience on hard aid and free climbs. maybe i'm being unrealistic to think you could have possibly had the same vision that i did. after all i'll never know what the color blue looks like to you, or what pizza taste like to you. i'm not knocking ur character, guess i jst had more of an expectation. my bad Quote
Lucky Larry Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 Let the games begin: Ivan is our race announcer. And there off; out of the gates it's Stone Soup into the first turn, old larry is coming up a horses ass behind. Grasshopper and little larry are necking; I mean neck and neck a tails length behind Old Larry's ass face; I mean ass. Opdyke is aiding up larry's ass, I mean he's smoking fast on Old's ass; and bringing up the tail is Joe. OH MY GOD! Kevbone isn't even out the gate. By Gawd, it's lost cam running away with the prize money! And there's Denali with a keg for everyone! Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 :lmao: larry, when you doing the route-to-be-named-later? andrew - friday is home-made pizza in my house night so me (and tvash adn justin and a few other folks) can tell you what it tastes like, and that's garlic n' black olives! Quote
ivan Posted February 12, 2011 Author Posted February 12, 2011 perhaps i had a bit more experience on hard aid and free climbs. i've never claimed to be hard-corer than you for sure, no? i just wanted to do a route that all folks who liked beacon could do febuary to june so they didn't have to bitch. Quote
pink Posted February 12, 2011 Posted February 12, 2011 ivan, congrats on ur new route, ur right. i'm lying about everything. i never even climbed on the north face. i hope you die with the most TR's. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.