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Posted

I'd say the approach took us about an hour and twenty minnutes in the dark, but thats after doing it probably 10-12 times prior. There are lots of areas to mess up the approach. I'm working on drawing some sort of a map to help future parties.

Posted
a little more than 3 hrs from seattle - the approach could be short as an hour i'd imagine, but there's plenty of room to fuck that up and have it turn into a lot more (john freih seems to think he's got it figured out though, so maybe you could ask him purty-please?)

 

a rare, rare jewel as said above - been raining a bunch 'roudn here today - how's it looking now dave?

when I left for work mid day, it was encased in a rainy fog... Not visible whatsoever... Pretty warm now too.
Posted
After seeing how fat Mt Hamilton was this year, my ice partner and I skipped work to drive out there early yesterday morning to give it a go. We really had no intentions of topping out or much less getting on the ice, but we did manage to climb partway up the second from the left drip in the last photo posted. We climbed in two pitches up to the small shadowed lower angled middle section in the picture. Starting in the dark the first pitch was about WI3 and the second WI4 with maybe a + the ice was mostly solid but the higher we got the more the sun came out and the worse it got. Above it looked much harder and the ice did not look as fat, even if it was colder I highly doubt we would have continued anyway. My guess is it could be some real WI6 or something, not that I know anything about that. All in all though a killer adventure for any hardman awaits, we had tryed this same climb twice about 10 and 12 years ago never getting higher than 50' so getting 200'+ off the ground was a real treat. The crux is probably the approach and getting to the traverse ledge at the base of the flows, as all the climbing (to our high point) was trival as far as ice goes. If we had not have sussed out the approach many times before we would have never made it in the dark. Anyone looking for beta please let me know.

 

Cheers

Todd

NiCE! I kept looking out the window to see if anyone was tap' n that. Must have just missed you guys...
Posted
i don't believe ospray exists till i see his tail feathers! :lmao:

 

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes.

 

Cheers

Todd

 

Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill.

Posted
No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes.

 

Pretty sure ivan's just kidding around, but do understand there are a lot of 20-something dudes here who provide a virtually limitless supply of ego to bruise. Me me me!

Posted
i don't believe ospray exists till i see his tail feathers! :lmao:

 

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes.

 

Cheers

Todd

 

Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill.

:P

 

i was always a fan of thomas in the new testament - come out to beacon saturday and have a beer w/ us!

Posted
i don't believe ospray exists till i see his tail feathers! :lmao:

 

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes.

 

Cheers

Todd

 

Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill.

 

dude these same assholes you speak off sometime go through a lot of trouble to create an alternate identity...

Posted
i don't believe ospray exists till i see his tail feathers! :lmao:

 

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes.

 

Cheers

Todd

 

Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill.

:P

 

i was always a fan of thomas in the new testament - come out to beacon saturday and have a beer w/ us!

 

Already got some plans for this weekend and next, but maybe we can have a beer out there sometime before it closes. Feb 1st right?

Posted
i don't believe ospray exists till i see his tail feathers! :lmao:

 

I have been curious about this as well

He makes some sweet packs!

 

I belive those are "Osprey" ;-) I thought some may find my name funny on this site due to the excessive amounts of "spray" on here.

Posted
i don't believe ospray exists till i see his tail feathers! :lmao:

 

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes.

 

Cheers

Todd

 

Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill.

:P

 

i was always a fan of thomas in the new testament - come out to beacon saturday and have a beer w/ us!

Take Ivan up on the beer offer! classic postclimb brewsky session hunkered down against the wind regaled with tales of wild walls and faraway splitters. No ones really a ahole on this site(except me), its all just in fun jousting.

 

Posted

I just spoke to Todd on the phone. Definitely seems legit to me. We had a nice chat about Gorge classics and he regaled me with tales of some of his ascents in the greater ranges. Pretty stoked to meet him in person and I think he'll be a great asset to this website.

Posted
Is Mr. Todd going to cough up the photos?

i'll volunteer to help you post'em, should the technical part be an obstacle, if only to make up for my assholeness :)

Posted

i'll volunteer to help you post'em, should the technical part be an obstacle, if only to make up for my assholeness :)

 

Cleaning up the assholeness is going to take a lot of work.

It may be beyond you. :moondance:

 

Love ya man

 

HAAAAAA HAAA :lmao::rocken:

Posted

Funny you guys care so much about pictures, when we didn't even top out on the thing. As I said before my partner brought his camera, not my film POS. We started climbing by headlamp, and I followed the second pitch with the camera most likley in my pack. I kinda doubt theres anything more than a couple of rappel shots and some from the base afterwards. Think what you want, but we had an awsome day, while I havent heard much of anything getting done from the naysayers? I know another party did something on Cape Horn so we where not the only ones out. When and if he e-mails me the pictures I will post them, but with the reactions on here I'm leaning towards the Charlie Porter style approach to things.

 

Cheers

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