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[TR] Strobach - Unholy Baptism 12/28/2010


Farrgo

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Trip: Strobach - Unholy Baptism

 

Date: 12/28/2010

 

Trip Report:

Colin B and I had a productive trip into Strobach yesterday. We climbed what we believe is the first complete ascent of Unholy Baptism. The first pitch (~70m) was ice pouring out over the cliff with a thin top out. This pitch took 13cm screws but the ice was rotten and most pro was suspect. The second pitch (~65m) started on some cauliflower and mixed climbing on the right then climbed 20m of sustained and overhanging ice to a small stance and another 30m of vertical ice. We used 12 screws and a few finger-sized cams and blades on this this pitch. Thankfully the second pitch took 16cm screws for most of it's length but again the top-out was thin junky ice that offered little protection. We rappelled from a tree up and right of the climb. Unholy Baptism certainly seem like a fitting name for this climb. It's the steepest and most sustained pitch either of us have climbed and feel that it merits the WI6 grade in current conditions.

 

Unholy Baptism

unholy.JPG

 

First Pitch

1firstpitch.JPG

 

Second Pitch

1cruxpitch.JPG

 

Colin contemplating the drop

1steep.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Screws, small rock rack, 70m ropes helpful

 

Approach Notes:

FS 1202 left on Rd 611 follow that and bushwack through trees to Motherload area ~2.25-2.5 hours

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