Farrgo Posted December 29, 2010 Posted December 29, 2010 Trip: Strobach - Unholy Baptism Date: 12/28/2010 Trip Report: Colin B and I had a productive trip into Strobach yesterday. We climbed what we believe is the first complete ascent of Unholy Baptism. The first pitch (~70m) was ice pouring out over the cliff with a thin top out. This pitch took 13cm screws but the ice was rotten and most pro was suspect. The second pitch (~65m) started on some cauliflower and mixed climbing on the right then climbed 20m of sustained and overhanging ice to a small stance and another 30m of vertical ice. We used 12 screws and a few finger-sized cams and blades on this this pitch. Thankfully the second pitch took 16cm screws for most of it's length but again the top-out was thin junky ice that offered little protection. We rappelled from a tree up and right of the climb. Unholy Baptism certainly seem like a fitting name for this climb. It's the steepest and most sustained pitch either of us have climbed and feel that it merits the WI6 grade in current conditions. Unholy Baptism First Pitch Second Pitch Colin contemplating the drop Gear Notes: Screws, small rock rack, 70m ropes helpful Approach Notes: FS 1202 left on Rd 611 follow that and bushwack through trees to Motherload area ~2.25-2.5 hours Quote
genepires Posted December 29, 2010 Posted December 29, 2010 I got scared just looking at the second pitch photo. Very good job gents. Quote
Alex Posted December 30, 2010 Posted December 30, 2010 Unbelievable send, awesome! That it's formed completely, let alone in December, is pretty amazing!! This line has only come in complete 2 other times in the 10 years I've been looking at it! It's a hella steep second pitch for sure! Quote
YakCLimber78 Posted December 30, 2010 Posted December 30, 2010 How was the approach? We were up on the north side of Rimrock and heard uber-loud snowmachines... Our line was melting out by the time we got to the last pitch so we had to bail. Good to see you were able to take advantage of the cloud cover over there. Nice Send!! Quote
dan_e Posted December 31, 2010 Posted December 31, 2010 Solid, good work guys! This is shaping up to be an epic Strobach season! Quote
John Frieh Posted December 31, 2010 Posted December 31, 2010 BALLERS! Nice work dudes. I hope the forecasted sun for this week doesnt bake things out Quote
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