Plaidman Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 I am going out to solo aid something in my new paddle jacket that I borrowed so I can try to stay dry. Call if any would like to join the slug fest. 503-706-5315 leave a message I will call u back Quote
ivan Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 shitty days like these its mean to take a human belayer for aiding, unless you have a whole pharmacy to keep them sedated do the village route off land of the little people! or the complete stephenwulf. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 I called Plaidman on his cell and he was hanging off a microstopper heading up the Flying Dutchman between cloudburts. Wildman. Quote
Plaidman Posted December 14, 2010 Author Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Started up Flying Dutchman. The crux was just getting on it. The rain came down in 20 gallon buckets. I tried to go straight up from my anchor to the right of the small tree. Tried to do a hook move on the slabs and the flake blew. Fell on a #2 micro nut. My belay anchor held. I tried some other tricks and then had to down climb and go up to the left. I put in another #2 mirco nut as my first piece. That is when Steve called me as I was trying to get the next piece in. I was shooting for the next tree. I had to put in another nut to get up to it. Then I was trying to do a stupid rope trick by trying to lasso the tree with my cordlett. I resolved that it would be better to make a free move and just get up there. That is when the windows of heaven opened as I was in the middle of the sketch move. Made it to the tree and after that it was easy. I made it past the first three fixed pins used a couple of hook moves to get to the rap anchor. I even used a cam hook. Sweet! Then I bailed off on the rap anchor to the left. Jugged my rope and cleaned the gear. I have a fixed line I will use to finish it later. It was raining so hard when I got back to my car I could barely see it. I borrowed a kayak paddle jacket from Ben. It keep the water from running down my arms but I was soaked with sweat. Fun time though. Edited December 14, 2010 by Plaidman Quote
billcoe Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 wAY TO GET AFTER IT. i'LL DONATE THE FIRST $10 FOR A WATERPROOF CAMERA FOR YOU. Quote
denalidave Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 Sorry I missed yer call... Saw yer car in the lot on my way to get the kids and felt pretty sorry for anyone brave enough to get after it in these conditions. GO, PLAID, GO! BTW, yes there will be plenty of nose hairs in my upcoming vid... Quote
JosephH Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 Going to be heading out there in the morning to do the corner. I plan on moving as fast as an out-of-shape, fat man can in order to stay warm. Have a second rig of super warm clothing, if you need any of it. If any one is interested in joining me send a pm (probably be out there 10:30-11ish). Should be interesting and peculiar after this long sitting on my ass. Quote
ivan Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 i'm sick as hell at the moment, joe, and feeling super weak, but mike and i should be out there 'round 830 - probably do the corner, then maybe the village route above lolp? if it's dry enough maybe warriors or right gull or the like? Quote
JosephH Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 That's a bit early for me, and I have no idea if I can make it up the Corner let alone YW or anything else. Have to see how it goes. I remember heading out there one time after a few months like this and figuring FFA should be a walk as I'd rope-soloed it like a million times that year. Ended up having set three piece halfway to the first pod and frenching back down. Had to go get a log to lean against it to get my gear back drove home a completely sodden and beaten man. Sigh, it just goes to show - you never know... Quote
pink Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 don't u guy's have phones and shit??? or is that considered homo or something??? JUST CURIOUS Quote
JosephH Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 Both sound exhausting at moment. Maybe if I were more of a homo I'd be hanging on the (ILo)vBe-acon hotter-Than-U-Line, but as it is I'm not and my visa can't handle the per minute charges anyway. Quote
pink Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 i hear ya, ur a software guy, not a fluffer... Quote
ivan Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 i hear ya, ur a software guy, not a fluffer... i though working w/ software was a fluffer's whole goddamn raison d'etre? Quote
JosephH Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 I believe a fluffer endeavors to turn software into hardware stopping short of a relapse to the former. They give bootstrapping a bad name. Quote
kevbone Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 don't u guy's have phones and shit??? children????? or is that considered homo or something??? to girly to stay at home? JUST CURIOUS All fixed :[] Quote
denalidave Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 don't u guy's have phones and shit??? children????? or is that considered homo or something??? to girly to stay at home? JUST CURIOUS All fixed :[] That's why god gave us crawl spaces and trunks in our cars... Just put the rugrats in thar and be sure to leave some water and kibbles. Quote
ivan Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 don't u guy's have phones and shit??? children????? or is that considered homo or something??? to girly to stay at home? JUST CURIOUS All fixed :[] the record should show i opted out of the ideal day to climb this weekend in favor of a nice long walk w/ the famb-i-wy the ass-end of a good weather system at beacon a week before the cloussure was still pretty solid though... Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 I hope somebody made it out to Beacon this weekend. I won't even tell you guys how nice it was at Smith all weekend but will just say that allot of people were climbing without their shirts, but just mostly guys . I actually got a tan on my face, stoked for the vitamen D. Quote
JosephH Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 Ended up unable to go, oh well... Wed / Thu look good so I'll probably try again then. Quote
ivan Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 I hope somebody made it out to Beacon this weekend. I won't even tell you guys how nice it was at Smith all weekend but will just say that allot of people were climbing without their shirts, but just mostly guys . I actually got a tan on my face, stoked for the vitamen D. spending the whooooole weekend out there next week in honor of the end of the first half of the school year - probablly be frigid n' sunless, in honor of me Quote
JosephH Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 That's not forecast, let's not jinx it. Quote
denalidave Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 I hope somebody made it out to Beacon this weekend. I won't even tell you guys how nice it was at Smith all weekend but will just say that allot of people were climbing without their shirts, but just mostly guys . I actually got a tan on my face, stoked for the vitamen D. spending the whooooole weekend out there next week in honor of the end of the first half of the school year - probablly be frigid n' sunless, in honor of me I'm off on Mondays, the final day of the season there. Let's have a get together of some sort like last year... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.