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Headed to Beacon today to do ???????


Plaidman

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Started up Flying Dutchman. The crux was just getting on it. The rain came down in 20 gallon buckets. I tried to go straight up from my anchor to the right of the small tree. Tried to do a hook move on the slabs and the flake blew. Fell on a #2 micro nut. My belay anchor held. I tried some other tricks and then had to down climb and go up to the left. I put in another #2 mirco nut as my first piece. That is when Steve called me as I was trying to get the next piece in. I was shooting for the next tree. I had to put in another nut to get up to it. Then I was trying to do a stupid rope trick by trying to lasso the tree with my cordlett. I resolved that it would be better to make a free move and just get up there. That is when the windows of heaven opened as I was in the middle of the sketch move. Made it to the tree and after that it was easy. I made it past the first three fixed pins used a couple of hook moves to get to the rap anchor. I even used a cam hook. Sweet! Then I bailed off on the rap anchor to the left. Jugged my rope and cleaned the gear. I have a fixed line I will use to finish it later.

It was raining so hard when I got back to my car I could barely see it. I borrowed a kayak paddle jacket from Ben. It keep the water from running down my arms but I was soaked with sweat. Fun time though.

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  • 1 month later...

Going to be heading out there in the morning to do the corner. I plan on moving as fast as an out-of-shape, fat man can in order to stay warm. Have a second rig of super warm clothing, if you need any of it. If any one is interested in joining me send a pm (probably be out there 10:30-11ish). Should be interesting and peculiar after this long sitting on my ass.

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That's a bit early for me, and I have no idea if I can make it up the Corner let alone YW or anything else. Have to see how it goes. I remember heading out there one time after a few months like this and figuring FFA should be a walk as I'd rope-soloed it like a million times that year. Ended up having set three piece halfway to the first pod and frenching back down. Had to go get a log to lean against it to get my gear back drove home a completely sodden and beaten man. Sigh, it just goes to show - you never know...

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don't u guy's have phones and shit??? children????? or is that considered homo or something??? to girly to stay at home?

JUST CURIOUS :)

 

All fixed :[]

That's why god gave us crawl spaces and trunks in our cars... Just put the rugrats in thar and be sure to leave some water and kibbles.
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don't u guy's have phones and shit??? children????? or is that considered homo or something??? to girly to stay at home?

JUST CURIOUS :)

 

All fixed :[]

the record should show i opted out of the ideal day to climb this weekend in favor of a nice long walk w/ the famb-i-wy

 

the ass-end of a good weather system at beacon a week before the cloussure was still pretty solid though...

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I hope somebody made it out to Beacon this weekend. I won't even tell you guys how nice it was at Smith all weekend but will just say that allot of people were climbing without their shirts, but just mostly guys :(.

I actually got a tan on my face, stoked for the vitamen D.

spending the whooooole weekend out there next week in honor of the end of the first half of the school year - probablly be frigid n' sunless, in honor of me :)

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I hope somebody made it out to Beacon this weekend. I won't even tell you guys how nice it was at Smith all weekend but will just say that allot of people were climbing without their shirts, but just mostly guys :(.

I actually got a tan on my face, stoked for the vitamen D.

spending the whooooole weekend out there next week in honor of the end of the first half of the school year - probablly be frigid n' sunless, in honor of me :)

I'm off on Mondays, the final day of the season there. Let's have a get together of some sort like last year...
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