johnkelley Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Who the fuck put in three retro bolts on the old TR problems at crack in the woods crag and why? It's been an established area for several generations, WTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted November 28, 2010 Author Share Posted November 28, 2010 Make that five retro bolts added to TR's, according to The Scar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 http://www.alaskamountainforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2994 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 non local guide book authors suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xhen Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 non local guide book authors suck  I know prezwood pretty well and have climbed with him before. Great guy, great climber.  Not saying retro bolting is cool, and some of his friends even call him out in the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 non local guide book authors suck   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 non local guide book authors suck  Kelsey is as local as they get up here - don't voice the cliche "locals only" crap. Furthermore best recent guidebook for AK was not written by a "local".  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 "locals only" isn't what I'm getting at really. I'm saying retro bolts that some wanker puts up on the old TR aren't cool and poorly researched and badly written guide books aren't cool. Has anything good come from this guy? Retro bolts, slackline bolts, a crappy book, book signings, a bs web forum, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Now there has been a total of nine retro bolts added to the crack in the woods area. All on established climbs. WTF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 so chop them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Make that 13 new bolts at crack in the woods, not counting anchors. Only two are replacments for old bolts. The other 11 are retro bolts added to existing climbs. Lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Looks like someone put the axe to Splat Button and Hocus Pocus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 I thought I'd read on Supertopo that it was you who did that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Alex said I could Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 And the worst part is the ASCA is giving him bolts. Apparently the "we don't add bolts to climbs" is bullshit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Looks like someone put the axe to Splat Button and Hocus Pocus  I'm just keeping you honest John. Truth be told, I'm unfamiliar with the area and don't know about the history, routes, or situation, so I don't really have an opinion one way or another. You sound like a committed local, and I've certainly enjoyed your TR's here, so I wish you well in working out your local situation.  Unless you're using a Ouija board to consult Alex Lowe, I'm uncertain who you're referring to. Presumably the TR problem's FA party?  As far as ASCA goes, their site states: "The ASCA returns classic climbing routes to their original danger level by replacing deteriorating old fixed anchors, usually bolts, with modern camouflaged gear. We do not add bolts to make climbs "safer." Climbing is inherently extremely dangerous." I'm sure this is their policy, and if bolts they had supplied were used to retrobolt TR problems it was not with their consent. They supply hardware to volunteers who do the work, the ASCA does not have complete control over what individuals do with the hardware they supply.  Were the removed hangers stamped ASCA? If so, if you have proof their hardware was misused, you should take it up with them, I'd guess they would be very interested to know. If you register a complaint in a reasonable manner and get a snarky dismissive response, that would be some evidence of failure to follow through on their policy, but I don't believe your accusation has merit at this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 11 new retrobolts at one very small crag. No merit? WTF? BTW I have been in contact with the ASCA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 the "no merit" was probably in reference to the accusation that ASCA was aware and gave the OK to add bolts instead of replacing bolts. Â If it such a travesty and you speak for the majority, why not just rip them out yourself? If you are in the minority who is upset by this, then maybe you should just yield and save the stress. Either way, you got better things to do. Â Is this crag really that important? (I have no idea what it looks like but it sounds small) I mean it is not beacon or anything. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 So he uses his "own bolts" for retorbolting and uses ASCA bolts for replacement? This is what he's claiming anyway. I can't believe you guys are supporting adding bolts to 20+ year old climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 John, you also have to take into account the fact that life transitions can really affect a man's perspective. Events like becoming a parent, reaching 'a certain age', and seeing your name in print can all cause the development of a sudden onset penchant for bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Well if toproping is to dangerous do something else. You're on to something with the name in print idea though. It's never changed my view on retrobolts but sure has changed theirs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 I can't believe you guys are supporting adding bolts to 20+ year old climbs. Â where is your reading comprehension? Where did anyone say adding the bolts is OK? My point was either shit or get of the pot. Go get rid of the bolts instead of whining here about it. F'in AK pansies. Maybe I should buy raindawg a plane ticket and he can fix your "problem" for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 They got chopped a few weeks ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 the "no merit" was probably in reference to the accusation that ASCA was aware and gave the OK to add bolts instead of replacing bolts. Â Thanks Gene, that's exactly what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnkelley Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Fact - The ASCA is giving a known retrobolter hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.