Smith Rock Standard Rack and Required Routes

[TreeBlender]

Heading to Smith tomorrow. What's a standard rack for the area and what are the must do routes both sport and trad from 5.8-5.10?

 

Cheers

[Drederek]

12 quickdraws

[KirkW]

Heading to Smith tomorrow. What's a standard rack for the area and what are the must do routes both sport and trad from 5.8-5.10?

 

Cheers

:lmao:

 

yeah... you might wanna get the guidebook

[letsroll]

Doubt set of nuts. double set of C3's, double set of C4's through #4, 1 #5, 1 #6, 4 of the smallest big bro, and 6 of the largest, 16 sport draws, 10 alpine runners and 2 70m ropes.

 

or you could just get the guide book.

[justinp]

Doubt set of nuts. double set of C3's, double set of C4's through #4, 1 #5, 1 #6, 4 of the smallest big bro, and 6 of the largest, 16 sport draws, 10 alpine runners and 2 70m ropes.

 

or you could just get the guide book.

 

U forgot the hexes

[wayne]

There is some great trad @ Smith. The pitchs arent that long so a set and a half cams and set of stoppers should do.

[letsroll]

oh yes Hexes as well.

[letsroll]

and tricams

[justinp]

 

In all seriousness Wayne is spot on….. cams up to like 3” extra in the mid range size set of dezze nuts couple alpine draws and some regular ones.

 

Lots of single pitch trad lines in the Dihedral Area.

Mod must climbs for multi pitch trad

 

Sky Chimney

Moscow

Supper Slab

Spider Man Buttress

 

There are lots more so procure a guide book.

[G-spotter]

triple set of tricams and a fistful of rps

[marc_leclerc]

LOTS of wires.... I used WAY more nuts than cams.

 

Some good routes!

 

Lion's Chair, Sunshine Dihedral, Moonshine Dihedral, Karate Crack, Rising Expectations....

[111]

what grade are you looking to climb at?

[justinp]

Heading to Smith tomorrow. What's a standard rack for the area and what are the must do routes both sport and trad from 5.8-5.10?

 

Cheers

 

read the original post Ian

[markwebster]

my favorite trad climbs:

lions jaw 5.8

Fridays Jinx 5.8 two pitches

Cinnamon slab 5.6 (one half inch up to 4 inches)

Moonshine Dihedral 5.9

Bookworm 5.9, up to 4 inches

 

Lycophydophyta, combine first and second pitch, bring a ton of gear up to 3 inches, many medium sized, awesome route from ground to mesa top 5.8

 

Spiderman

 

zebra zion, mostly mid size gear, but bring a full rack. 5.10a

 

New Testament 5.10a

 

Karate 5.10a, bring many hand sized (4 #2 yellow camalots), and down to one quarter inch for traverse.

 

Don't forget Moscow, Peking and Super Slab 5.6 to 5.8. Pretty much a standard Leavenworth or Yosemite trad rack will do fine at smith

[Mr. Hands]

I love Smith Rock! The BLM camping allows horses what a treat!

 

My rack there is just quick draws. Youd have to be an idiot to trad climb on that stuff!

Edited October 7, 2010 by Mr. Hands

[TreeBlender]

You have to love this forum: 335 views 14 posts percentage of jackasses 70%

 

Rockclimbing.com: 163 views 5 posts percentage of jackasses 0%

 

To those of you that have actually gone places and understand that the guidebook is one guys opinion and that locals often know of hidden gems or give you a better perscective of what to bring... thank-you. You're the only reason I post anything here.

 

To the rest of you, good to see that you're still entertaining yourselves... don't leave your computers, you might lose your sense of humor.

[bstach]

I am a bit surprised the percentage of jackasses is so low. I expect more from this site.

[markwebster]

I love Smith Rock! The BLM camping allows horses what a treat!

 

My rack there is just quick draws. Youd have to be an idiot to trad climb on that stuff!

 

hmm, call me an idiot then. This must be a troll. Back in '78 when I first went to smith there were only a small handfull of bolted climbs. I can remember Phoenix, Revelations, Dancer and Jute. On the back side there was bits and peices and 'in harms way'. Oh, there was sky ridge. But that was it, just a dozen or so bolted routes in total in the whole park.

 

So when you went to smith, you crack climbed, or you very soon ran out of climbing. All of those crack climbs are still there, they were good back then, and they are still good now...and they aren't crowded, what's not to like?

 

Granted, it's not Yosemite granite, but it's good enough once you learn how to place safe gear in the bumpy cracks.

 

 

[KirkW]

To those of you that have actually gone places and understand that the guidebook is one guys opinion and that locals often know of hidden gems or give you a better perscective of what to bring... thank-you. You're the only reason I post anything here.

 

You're right. Alan Watts doesn't know shit about Smith Rock. The locals are keeping all of the good shit for themselves. Those 1800+ routes and 500 pages that took him over a decade to compile are just for the tourons and jackasses like me.

 

 

 

 

 

[billcoe]

SHHHH: Atredies, you're upping the jackass percentage....LOL!

 

I'm with Mark. It surprises me to walk over there to the busiest part of the park, and right in the middle of bunches of folks running around with draws and falling off absurdly hard, steep and interesting bolted lines: see no one on the uber classic crack Moonshine Dihedral. To add to the list, it's the same with Trezlar and the wonderful 10c crack down on the point of the istmus....? whatever it's called. These are wonderful, enjoyable and well protected cracks in the range you're looking at.

 

have fun!

[111]

 

My rack there is just quick draws. Youd have to be an idiot to trad climb on that stuff!

 

Mr. Hands; please go ride your horses up Gray Butte then! The Trad climbing on tuff is absolutely first rate! (just don't fall)

 

heavenly tuff climbs:

karate crack, Delerium Tremens, Zion, White Satin, Sunshine Dihedral, Watts Tots, lions jaw, Kunza Corner, Peking...

 

 

Wanker baa

[111]

Heading to Smith tomorrow. What's a standard rack for the area and what are the must do routes both sport and trad from 5.8-5.10?

 

Cheers

 

read the original post Ian

 

sorry, i was trying to offset the jackass...

[TreeBlender]

To those of you that have actually gone places and understand that the guidebook is one guys opinion and that locals often know of hidden gems or give you a better perscective of what to bring... thank-you. You're the only reason I post anything here.

 

You're right. Alan Watts doesn't know shit about Smith Rock. The locals are keeping all of the good shit for themselves. Those 1800+ routes and 500 pages that took him over a decade to compile are just for the tourons and jackasses like me.

 

 

 

 

 

Hahaha... you're right. Next time I'll just buy a guidebook and start climbing the 500+ routes alphabetically.

 

I have a guidebook. I'm asking people that have left their mothers basement and actually climbed the suggested and obscure routes, what the MUST do routes are. I'm not asking what routes are located at Smith Rock so that I can magically find them and climb them without any guidebook to assist me. I also want to know what SEVERAL people consider to be a standard rack.

 

To those that gave a legitimate answer Thank-you!

[TreeBlender]

double

 

Edited October 7, 2010 by TreeBlender

[Drederek]

You have to love this forum: 335 views 14 posts percentage of jackasses 70%

 

Just for the record am I part of the 70%? While there are a few easy cracks there worth doing there are a great many really nice sport routes. If you have to ask whats good you probably haven't been there very often so I'd advise you to just go sporto your first few trips. Once you lose your enthusiasm for following the herd you'll have walked by and looked at many of the trad lines and perhaps decided some of them are worthy.