[TR] Mt Stuart - Complete North Ridge 8/24/2010

[kevino]

Trip: Mt Stuart - Complete North Ridge

 

Date: 8/24/2010

 

Trip Report:

Not much to add to this often climbed route. Just thought I'd throw out some pictures and confirm that no crampons or ice axes are needed. Enjoy.

 

Brian coming up after the squeeze slot

 

Brian working the 5.9 crack

 

Smoke in the valley

 

Classic ridge line

 

Almost there

 

Great pitch

 

I'm trying to get into Jim Nelson's next guidebook

 

Summit

[img:left]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs387.snc4/45068_584625558923_39203244_33782601_4221297_n.jpg[/img]

 

One question...the final 5.8 crack, is that the crack with the #3 camalot stuck in it? Fun climbing regardless.

[mountainsloth]

that climb has been haunting me... gotta get on it.

[dennyt]

Wow, that last photo is amazing!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

The last photo with the summit shadow reminds me of when my friend and I summited via the W ridge near sunset a couple of years ago! :-)

[bgratias]

Would you recommend crampons for the gully leading to the upper ridge?

[fenderfour]

Would you recommend crampons for the gully leading to the upper ridge?

 

DID YOU READ THE FRICKEN REPORT? LOOK AT LINE 1.

[kevino]

But the approach I took, and the one he/she would take are different. To answer, the snow was discontinuous and only went up about halfway. Snow on the glacier was fairly firm in the shade, and its only getting colder.

[Captain panther]

for the abrev. start pons and axe are a must still

[bstach]

Thanks for posting up a trip report, Kevino. It was great climbing with you on a classic route.

 

For all you peeps out there, Kevino is a great climbing partner: Fit, competent, laid back and gracious (i.e. didn't complain once about having to wait for my fat ass to catch up to him on the trail).

 

Next time he is looking for a partner, hook him up!

[sweatinoutliquor]

Very nice report, thanks for sending the pics too... Looks like a great outing fellas.

[denalidave]

Just wondering if anyone was on the CNR last weekend, Fri & Sat (9/10-9/11)? We were hoping for a shot at it but were greeted by showers upon arriving at the trail head at 1 am Fri morning. We hiked up to Lake Ingals only to find it very wet, socked in and enough snow on the upper slopes of the few peaks we could see. Were the real hardmen still sending that day?

 

This is what it looked like for us...

 

The brief teaser window of hope.

 

Marmot.

At least we were able to do Orbit the next day as a consolation prize...