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billcoe

NEW CLIMBING AREA PDX

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Climbmax has the miniguides. You have to go there for the info. A selection of mostly easy bolted routes. I ask only that you don't give out directions, but let folks go get one from them. Trying to repay a favor to those folks. Thanks.

 

Climbmax Mountaineering 928 NE 28TH Ave. Portland, OR 97232 * Have fun, be safe!

Ben_and_Scott_on_Top_of_The_Old_Witch_2.jpg

 

Bon appetit!

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Ummm your whole reasoning around going to them for the guidebook is completly screwed. Hundreds of climbers have put up routes asking for nothing. If we have to buy something to go to this place, it just turns climbing into an even more expensive pass time than it really is. I spend enough on feed for my horses as is. And not living in or near Portland how could I ever experince this area without going way out of my way to Portland to first pay for directios... lame, very lame!

Edited by Mr. Hands

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expensive pass time ? Oh well alright. After gear- permits, food, gas, more gear. Alright, fair enough.

 

You my friend, really are a fucking idiot!

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Ummm your whole reasoning around going to them for the guidebook is completly screwed. Hundreds of climbers have put up routes asking for nothing. If we have to buy something to go to this place, it just turns climbing into an even more expensive pass time than it really is. I spend enough on feed for my horses as is. And not living in or near Portland how could I ever experince this area without going way out of my way to Portland to first pay for directios... lame, very lame!

 

You are lucky to even know there is a new area to climb at.

It could have been kept secret.

 

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Kind of hoping we could keep it positive and upbeat. I went out and did some laps tonight at the Butte, if you could call it that trying to work my shoulder back into shape, one of the gentleman had gone out there last weekend. Says he likes it better than Smith Rock. I squinted to see if he was bullshitting me, but I think he was straight up.

 

ps: the picture is the great PDX climber and major dude Ben Priestly, who first went out here way back when he was in school and turned me onto the spot, and always upbeat (till that last post LOL) Plaidman. Previously reported and better pics here Scott:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/970763/Searchpage/1/Main/75866/Words/priestly/Search/true/4th_ascent_of_The_Salathe_High#Post970763

 

Some more info for anyone perusing....

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/969397/Name_of_the_new_place#Post969397

 

Anyway, Ben had a vision of a place where people wouldn't be arguing over bolts, where routes would be crafted so that they would be challenging but with enough bolts that it wasn't crazy, and that some trad dude wouldn't just show up and wrap slings on knobs and then tell everyone else to "piss off I did it first" if it really needed to have bolts. Where peace and harmony would be the order of the day and no one ever would be hungry and the flowers were always blooming. I tried to stay true to his vision and with the exception of one route (search on keyword "Corn" in spray for that route description TR) think the place is starting to head there. Like to see that continue.

 

I had hoped we could avoid the acrimony, arguments, anger and hate (And bolting arguments) out here at the new spot that seems too often to follow the tribe around. Interesting that on another thread it's about a spot where Jim didn't want bolts and he wanted natural gear routes to predominate. I tried to stay true to that vision as well. I haven't counted but perhaps @4 protection bolts in 30 some odd routes or so....for me, not speaking for the other routes or other folks. I'm not convinced it's the best idea, but will say that it's in a great location for it. Right off the highway, near town. While this new spot is the opposite of that. No cell service, hike out, bit of a drive to civilization. So it's a good thing not to risk it all.

 

Anyway, thanks for the thanks Cordory Man. We all (those who have been coming out here) hope everyone appreciates, enjoys and helps each other out with no rancor when out here. That's why it's being shared. It's being shared/handed over and is your place now. Take care bros.

:wave:

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Looks like a cool place! Are there any 5.9's or less? Look's pretty stout.

 

I remember talking to Ben, must have been 5+ years ago, about the place. He had a real mystical tone in his voice when he talked about it.

 

Hope to visit!

 

Stewart

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Looks like a cool place! Are there any 5.9's or less? Look's pretty stout.

 

I remember talking to Ben, must have been 5+ years ago, about the place. He had a real mystical tone in his voice when he talked about it.

 

Hope to visit!

 

Stewart

 

There are a few good ones. Like Better than Sex 5.7 and Coecoenut Bridge 5.5

 

The place is a blast. Anyone wants to go let me know I will take you for a tour.

 

Plaidman

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and always upbeat (till that last post LOL) Plaidman.

 

 

Sorry Bill just love the place and the vision for it.

 

Plaidman

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The place is a blast. Anyone wants to go let me know I will take you for a tour.

 

Plaidman

 

But before the tour we have to stop at Climbmax.

 

 

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The place is a blast. Anyone wants to go let me know I will take you for a tour.

 

Plaidman

 

But before the tour we have to stop at Climbmax.

 

 

Do we have to buy anything?

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Do we have to buy anything?

 

Only if you want to.

 

So whats the point then, what if that is out of the way for me?

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Do we have to buy anything?

 

Only if you want to.

 

So whats the point then, what if that is out of the way for me?

 

Oh it's on the way.

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Do we have to buy anything?

 

Only if you want to.

 

So whats the point then, what if that is out of the way for me?

 

Oh it's on the way.

 

So if I'm coming from Boise its still on the way? There is no logic behind your reasoning.

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Do we have to buy anything?

 

Only if you want to.

 

So whats the point then, what if that is out of the way for me?

 

Oh it's on the way.

 

So if I'm coming from Boise its still on the way? There is no logic behind your reasoning.

 

Yes

Edited by Plaidman

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I'm sure he's kidding. You can't be yoinging around in a gear shop when ya want to be be racking up mileage out on the rock. Plaidman would be a good great tour guide though. :tup::tup:

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I'm sure he's kidding. You can't be yoinging around in a gear shop when ya want to be be racking up mileage out on the rock. Plaidman would be a good great tour guide though. :tup::tup:

 

Kidding! If I have to bend the laws of physics and move the sun, which I am able to do, it's on the way.

 

O.K. I can't really do that. But it would be neat if I could.

 

Plaidman

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are the top outs as muddy and yucks as they look in that photo? Or do you rap down to get off?

 

Thanks for making it public Billy boy!!!

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I think rapping is the way to go.

 

Speaking of rapping, go climb my brand new route called Gratitude (thanks Bill). It's two glorious pitches of 5.7-5.8 knob heaven to the top. It needs a second free ascent, I think.

 

Kyle did FA of P1 with me FA P2. BC on bolt duty. No rock was harmed in making this route, but BC's backpack took one for the team.

 

Here's looking down P2.

 

IMG_10111.jpg

 

 

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