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mountainsloth

[TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/2/2010

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Trip: Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss

 

Date: 8/2/2010

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Infinite Bliss on Monday with my friend Chris from Colorado. He had a strong interest in the route and I had wanted to experience this wonderful/atrocious route for myself after hearing too many options on it.

Plus it is located in one of my favorite Cascade valleys. :)

 

We fired off the 23 pitches and 20 some odd rappels in 10.5 hrs by simul-climbing any pitches 5.7 or less leaving only 9 to pitch out.

 

The route is divided in 4 sections:

-lower slabs (simul-climb first 8 pitches)

-lower headwall (pitched out 3 linking 11 & 12)

-upper junky slabs (simul-climbed the next 5)

-upper headwall. (Pitched out the last 5 linking 19 & 20)

 

Overall, I had a very good time on route. The only crappy pitches are the the upper junky slabs.

The crux pitches were fun and engaging, but a little forced. I guess this is the reason it is a sport climb... that and the millions of bolts.

We found the celebrated 10a pitch to be a disappointment, while the 10c pitch and the last pitch (5.9) to be the most fun.

 

Descent was pretty easy to follow if you had a topo and were paying attention on the way up.

 

The slight inversion we experienced on Monday had us being chased by clouds for most of the morning.

IMG_5788.jpg

 

IMG_5785.JPG

 

IMG_5780.JPG

 

Lower slabs

0197.JPG

 

Chris finishing off the lower slabs

0225.JPG

 

Me atop pitch 7

IMG_5782.jpg

 

5.5 gully pitch #8

0233.JPG

 

5.10b pitch

0252.JPG

 

me leading the crux pitch

IMG_5791.jpg

 

5.10a pitch

0372.JPG

 

The upper valley below

DSCN4944.JPG

 

Views near the top looking down the valley

0365.JPG

 

Exposure much?

0392.JPG

 

1 more to go!

0462.JPG

 

Chris enjoying the views on top

DSCN4976.JPG

 

Our summit friend finds comfort in color

IMG_5822.JPG

 

0512.JPG

 

Reflecting on the route as we leave.

IMG_5833.jpg

 

Thanks to Chris for taking great photos and being a super solid partner.

 

Gear Notes:

30 draws got us through the first 7 pitches simul-climbing, often skipping bolts.

 

 

Approach Notes:

steep trail for 30 mins. look for a cairn on your left 5-10 mins after the obvious washout.

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mountain sloth can i use your last pic it really shows a good angle for drawning the difference between i-b and the 99 route.thanks

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Hi Kukuzka. This is Chris. Saw this post from forever ago. Please feel free to use the photo for your typo if you still need.

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On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 8:42 PM, Nowurys said:

Hi Kukuzka. This is Chris. Saw this post from forever ago. Please feel free to use the photo for your typo if you still need.

thank you

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