erik Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 so while we were up at s.c.w. my bro's were over at the pearly gates climbing. when the arrived there some older guys came up to them and started sweating them about the place. after hearing that i and ray told themn about the place they started into some serious shit talking. even going as far as mentioning wallstein's name. what the fuck!!! you guys your little secret crag is on public land. it is nice to hear that you would kick my ass in he old days for talking the way i do, but as i pause and look back i can gauantee that i have never made like comments. so you can kiss my ass. i personally reccomend the pearly gates to everyone. probably the nicest cliff in the icicle with a similar appraoch as givlers, but with more classic climbing. directions. head up s.c. trail right afer crossing the foot bridge over the cana; you come to a switcg back. enter into the brush and follow some down timber until you cross the creek. work your way towards the a litte dirty wall and you we will see a trail follow this using cairns (if needed) up to the cliff. it is about 20 min hike and really worth it. if you are going to put 10 anchors on top of a wall, you better expect people are going to use them. dave, viktor or whom ever else was up there you guys are a joke!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 I was there. I spoke with your pals and exchanged a few pleasantries. They seemed OK to me. Dave said he talked to them too. Where you there? What is your complaint exactly? Huh? Do you just like to stir up shit for no reason? So someone threatened to kick your ass? I find this hard to comprehend since you WERE NOT THERE! Don't miss your next anger management class, loser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 I dont know what happened there but I hope everyone gets to visit this great crag. It is killer rock with lots of great routes. Good anchors and a not so long walk. Whoever was harrassing someone I hope you wake up. You cannot act like you own a crag that is on public land. As a matter of fact if one was to get technical it might lie on National Forest Land. I know it is right on the border for sure. Then you would have rangers up the yin yang harrassing you about power drilling. But that aint what I want to happen nor do I think anyone else does. Last time I recall someone babbled their mouth to me about it twice so I decided to check it out. I mean if you are going to tell the world then be prepared for visitors. Peace and share the crags. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Cavie, How about some route beta? What do they go at? Range anyway. I assume it is trad? How many routes...roughly...and what kind of pro...estimate please. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 You guys are right about one thing - it is a great crag. I have a preliminary topo in the works, if anyone wants one, send me an email. This is not my "secret crag". I have only been involved with 3 or 4 of the 30 new routes this year. Many others have contributed a lot of energy to develop these climbs for everyone to enjoy. There is a mix of good cracks from 5.8 to 5.11, and some bolted lines in the same range. The majority are gear routes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 5.8 mostly to 5.11. Lots of 5.9 and cracks to 3 inches is the largest that I did. 2 pitches in length is the longest I recall. Chain anchors on the ledges There are some bolted climbs that are good as well. One I saw was way out right. Viktor has all the info and passed it along to me recently. I think he would be able to answer your questions better. Viktor I dont know what Erik is referring to so dont get the impression I am slandering you Peace [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-02-2001).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 While the details are about this "confrontation" are vague. It is unfortunate that situations like this develop at all. What is surprising is that it comes as a shock to anyone. I would just say look back and review the comments made on this site that were/are directed to any variety of persons who do not actively participate in online discussions. Clearly only a fool would think that there would not be animosity generated from them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Peter you are speculating quite a bit. Erik is mostly a mellow dude and pretty cool. I don't think he is hostile by any means. I think maybe he has some more details to reveal before everyone starts to get all excited about nothing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Capt. - To be clear I am saying nothing about Erik personally but rather addressing the potential/probable/actual rejoinder generated by the posts on this website. BTW seems Viktor remembers things somewhat differently. I think Erik should offer a fuller explanation of his post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Erik you are blowing steam about something you know nothing about! I was up there and spoke to your "bros" first and last. All discussions we had were pleasant, although they were a bit stand-off-ish. We shared info and stated it was nice to meet them. I heard no threats! Why would you be threatened? None of us knows who you are or cares. The only mention of "Wallstein" was in reference to a climb he was trying to TR, that has since had two bolts added to it and been redpointed. They brought it up and I answered their questions. (If he thinks he was the first to work on that route, he is mistaken. How did he think it got so clean? I'm confident he didn't clean it!) Â Peter Puget makes a good point. With how people on this sight reference other climbers/route establishers what do you expect? Can you blame us for being a bit put out? The guy who told you guys about the crag feels cheated. He told you all as friends/fellow climbers and was then slandered on the computer. You don't hear us chestbeating about "ground up ascents to chain anchors". (first ascents to chain anchors? are you guys serious?) Do you think we slammed in anchors and didn't bother to enjoy the perfect cracks below them? Many of the cracks were done ground up then retro cleaned so others (like you) could enjoy them, did you guys bother doing that with your few efforts? You sure seemed to enjoy the ones we worked on. Go back and read all the comments "your bros" have made about the folks responsible for the efforts at The Pearly Gates. (Make sure you check out alpenlite.com also.) How do you think the footpath you followed got there? Perhaps by many trips up and down that slope by a group of adventurous and dedicated climbers. That crag has never been a secret. You can see it from the road and, as you said, it's a 20 minute approach. We just took the initiative to actually check it out. Â Before you start a thread and further slander superb climbers that have done more than you can even dream about, sit back and reconsider your position. These folks you call "jokes" have done more for the development of climbing (both at the crags and in the mountains)in this state than you and all "your bros" combined can ever think of achieving. You quite likely have learned to climb on some of the routes they pioneered! I have no idea where your attitude comes from but lose it! Oh yeah! As everyone has stated already The Pearly Gates rock! Go check it out and enjoy it as we have. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 10-02-2001).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Once again, I'm confused..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: The only mention of "Wallstein" was in reference to a climb he was trying to TR, that has since had two bolts added to it and been redpointed. They brought it up and I answered their questions. (If he thinks he was the first to work on that route, he is mistaken. How did he think it got so clean? I'm confident he didn't clean it!) Â The guy who told you guys about the crag feels cheated. He told you all as friends/fellow climbers and was then slandered on the computer. You don't hear us chestbeating about "ground up ascents to chain anchors". (first ascents to chain anchors? are you guys serious?) Do you think we slammed in anchors and didn't bother to enjoy the perfect cracks below them? Many of the cracks were done ground up then retro cleaned so others (like you) could enjoy them, did you guys bother doing that with your few efforts? You sure seemed to enjoy the ones we worked on. Go back and read all the comments "your bros" have made about the folks responsible for the efforts at The Pearly Gates. (Make sure you check out alpenlite.com also.) How do you think the footpath you followed got there? Perhaps by many trips up and down that slope by a group of adventurous and dedicated climbers. That crag has never been a secret. You can see it from the road and, as you said, it's a 20 minute approach. We just took the initiative to actually check it out. Before you start a thread and further slander superb climbers that have done more than you can even dream about, sit back and reconsider your position. These folks you call "jokes" have done more for the development of climbing (both at the crags and in the mountains)in this state than you and all "your bros" combined can ever think of achieving. You quite likely have learned to climb on some of the routes they pioneered! I have no idea where your attitude comes from but lose it! Oh yeah! As everyone has stated already The Pearly Gates rock! Go check it out and enjoy it as we have. Whoah bro, I think I know who you are now, didn't we meet a couple of times?... Wallstein did not care about anybody's project nor did he think he was the first to work it. He was so happy to be out there craggin on that nice stuff, and that was it. He simply liked the rock! Who would not! It sounds like you are quick to jump to the gun there slaphappy. Sure we sprayed about climbing some stuff up there. I was happy! You so bad! I think I and others even gave praise to the others that put in the anchors didn't I. Yes Just cuz you live nearby and have time to go up there and tick all the routes first dont mean nothing to me. I or anyone can walk up to a crack and climb it ground up with or without stinking anchors. Big Friggin deal! Nobody was cheated out of nothing. Your pride was hurt cuz some stupid crap about nailing all the routes first and stuff --- admit it. Oh well we are not part of your "in" crowd so we are not viewed as friendly people out here in "your" icicle? You are making harsh statements here bro so I think I will fight fire with fire. You got what you asked for here....... -Ray Borbon PS Why dont you tell everyone else who you are? Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Sorry Cavey! Wrong guy! I don't live in Heavenworth, but I do have plenty of time. I have no intrest in "fighting fire with fire" I was explaining why some people might feel a bit put out. The only reason you aren't part of our "in" crowd is I have never met you. I don't see my statements as "harsh", just to the point. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 10-02-2001).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: Sorry Cavey! Wrong guy! I don't live in Heavenworth, but I do have plenty of time. I have no intrest in "fighting fire with fire" I was explaining why some people might feel a bit put out. The only reason you aren't part of our "in" crowd is I have never met you. I don't see my statements as "harsh", just to the point. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 10-02-2001).] Â I think some of your points are not correct. I dont know where you get your info? Whatever.. I know that I was not there and now some of what you stated was not correct at all! Especially about Wallstein. Fuck the only thing I mentioned is that he worked that hard route and thought it was a certain difficulty... Peace and chill a little. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 My info was all first hand, cause I was there. The comments about "Wallstein" were not in reference to your spray, but your buds comments about "somebody adding bolts to my friends (wallsteins) project". I'm not trying to start something just clarify what went on up there. And yeah, reread Erik's initial comments, it does raise the hair on my neck a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 The guy who told you guys about the crag feels cheated. He told you all as friends/fellow climbers and was then slandered on the computerJust curious when this happened too? Right it did not ever happen!!....... I only had good things to say about him. Whoever said anything different is a liar! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: The comments about "Wallstein" were not in reference to your spray, but your buds comments about "somebody adding bolts to my friends (wallsteins) project". Wallstein's project?!! HA the guy worked it once! I don't think he considered it a project geez... Not the truth. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Again Cavey, ease up, I'm not refering to your comments. Go back and reread some of the crap on alpenlite.com. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Notice the quotation marks, I did not say it, your buds did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 There is nothing there anymore but I have read it before. There was no slander. YOu should start quoting facts instead of talking like this. Also if you are going to start claiming such things in a public forum and spreading rumors as I see it then you might want to come forward and identify yourself..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 rumors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: Again Cavey, ease up, I'm not refering to your comments. Go back and reread some of the crap on alpenlite.com. Obviously there are some grudges and hard feelings about something.. I don't understand anything about slandering. I know I sprayed and I always do. It is my prerogative to do so. Still I dont see where all the animosity is brewed up from? It all sounds childish if you ask me. Fuck its rock we all like it and we have something in common! Get a grip people. Until more is out in the open I don't think telling my friends and I that we have offered nothing to the mountains and crags is very friendly as you have. I take that as a personal insult! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chepe Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: rumors? Duh about slander! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Blah,blah,blah.... Who cares about some short dirty cracks up another slabby dome, anyway? Get real, or get over it! "My crag...No mine....no mine first....no mine.....no its my project....well I cleaned it...well I worked it on TR..." HAHAHAHAHA!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 No doubt Lammy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts