Cpt.Caveman Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Here I propose the thread for all the bolts out there that people like to argue over. We can put them in one spot instead of looking around other threads right? Plus not cluttering other forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 I agree wit da captin arrrr! How about a forum for all bolting and access related issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 20, 2001 Author Share Posted September 20, 2001 Probably a good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 like the bolts in frankenstein's neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJason Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Mitch, Is it correct to assume that you were the one who chopped the old 1/4" bolt on the 1st crack pitch on the Shield of Outer Space (about 25 ft above the Pedestal)? Don't really know what happened but it appears to be gone now. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 20, 2001 Author Share Posted September 20, 2001 quote: Originally posted by JJason: Mitch, Is it correct to assume that you were the one who chopped the old 1/4" bolt on the 1st crack pitch on the Shield of Outer Space (about 25 ft above the Pedestal)? Don't really know what happened but it appears to be gone now. Jon  Just because he removed one anchor does not mean he does all of them. I dont see why such a question could not be sent via personal message either.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 Since Retro has been so open and critical of others I think it is more that acceptable to ask anything in an open forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 20, 2001 Author Share Posted September 20, 2001 That sound like bullshit. You guys just want to slam him. Gimme a break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJason Posted September 20, 2001 Share Posted September 20, 2001 C C Sorry to be so offensive by my post. Maybe if I need to rephrase the question/statement to get a response. I'm curious as to why there was a bolt on the 1st crack pitch above the Pedestal on Outer Space (25 ft. up). I'm sure it was there for more than 15 years before it was removed. Why was this tolerated on one of Leavenworth's most classic climbs? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted September 21, 2001 Share Posted September 21, 2001 that bolt was there for the same reason that there is an old bolt on cocaine crack and classic crack- the same reason every crack in yosemite has a line of scars going the whole length of it. That is "trad" climbing. Climbing a crack while placing removable protection along the way is not "traditional" by any means. Most lines(including outer space) were aided, by use of pitons and quarter inch bolts origionally. Old bolts on old climbs are not an issue- new bolts on climbs that were previously lead without them are an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted September 21, 2001 Share Posted September 21, 2001 That bolt was a totally rusty piece of shit when I first climbed OS in the late seventies. I am sure it either just fell out, rusted off, or came out in someones hand. It dates (I am sure) to the dark ages when Retro, Pete, Victor, and I were babies (little ones that is). Some poor misguided sap didn't have enough pins. Remember, the first edition of "Mountaineering : Freedom..." had a section on how to place a bolt. This is nothing new. What I wonder about is the big shiny bolt on top of the pedestal. I don't ever remember seeing a bolt there before, although it is on the start of Remourse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted September 21, 2001 Share Posted September 21, 2001 quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: That bolt was a totally rusty piece of shit when I first climbed OS in the late seventies. I am sure it either just fell out, rusted off, or came out in someones hand. It dates (I am sure) to the dark ages when Retro, Pete, Victor, and I were babies (little ones that is). Some poor misguided sap didn't have enough pins. Remember, the first edition of "Mountaineering : Freedom..." had a section on how to place a bolt. This is nothing new. What I wonder about is the big shiny bolt on top of the pedestal. I don't ever remember seeing a bolt there before, although it is on the start of the final Remourse headwall. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted September 21, 2001 Share Posted September 21, 2001 It is cool when you can quote yourself! I am a fucking computer illiterate, as well as an abrasive little dick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted September 21, 2001 Share Posted September 21, 2001 quote: Originally posted by JJason: Mitch, Is it correct to assume that you were the one who chopped the old 1/4" bolt on the 1st crack pitch on the Shield of Outer Space? No. That is a poor assumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted September 21, 2001 Share Posted September 21, 2001 quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: What I wonder about is the big shiny bolt on top of the pedestal. I don't ever remember seeing a bolt there before, although it is on the start of Remourse. I noticed it too. I am reasonablly sure that the intent of that bolt is to minimize the rope drag that you get hauling rope over the top of the pedestal when belaying the second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted September 22, 2001 Share Posted September 22, 2001 it sounds like a smart place for a good bolt. Thanks to that person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted September 24, 2001 Share Posted September 24, 2001 I have a couple of SMC split bolts with hangers that anybody can have for the cost of postage and an assurance that your a responsible climber and not some pro-on-rap piece-of-shit sporty. I'll never use them. Yes, I put in two bolts back in the 80's on a first ascent in the Feather River Canyon, CA. I still regret it. The route could have been a fine top rope problem; it was my ego that needed my name in a guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 24, 2001 Share Posted September 24, 2001 That bolt above the pedestal replaces an old rusty one. I can understand how people would miss that old one since I missed it myself the first n times I climbed OS. Didn't find it until someone else led and clipped it. Yes, it does work very well to reduce rope drag. If you're just worried about rope drag though, it seems like the old one would have sufficed. Maybe it's to protect RPM? Chuck Chuck  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted September 24, 2001 Share Posted September 24, 2001 Who's busting bolts off top rope problems in the Icicle? If they think they are climbers, they've got some growing up to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted September 25, 2001 Share Posted September 25, 2001 I saw the missing hangers at clamshell also- I just figured somebody was bolting ANOTHER slab in the icicle and couldn't afford to buy thier own hangers- spent all thier money on lycra tights and bits for thier rotohammers. [This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 09-24-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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