Main Thread for bolting issues

[Cpt.Caveman]

Here I propose the thread for all the bolts out there that people like to argue over. We can put them in one spot instead of looking around other threads right? Plus not cluttering other forums.

[jon]

I agree wit da captin arrrr! How about a forum for all bolting and access related issues?

[Cpt.Caveman]

Probably a good idea!

[Dru]

like the bolts in frankenstein's neck?

[JJason]

Mitch,

Is it correct to assume that you were the one who chopped the old 1/4" bolt on the 1st crack pitch on the Shield of Outer Space (about 25 ft above the Pedestal)? Don't really know what happened but it appears to be gone now.

Jon

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by JJason:

Mitch,

Is it correct to assume that you were the one who chopped the old 1/4" bolt on the 1st crack pitch on the Shield of Outer Space (about 25 ft above the Pedestal)? Don't really know what happened but it appears to be gone now.

Jon

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Just because he removed one anchor does not mean he does all of them. I dont see why such a question could not be sent via personal message either.

 

[Peter_Puget]

Since Retro has been so open and critical of others I think it is more that acceptable to ask anything in an open forum.

[Cpt.Caveman]

That sound like bullshit. You guys just want to slam him. Gimme a break

[JJason]

C C Sorry to be so offensive by my post. Maybe if I need to rephrase the question/statement to get a response.

I'm curious as to why there was a bolt on the 1st crack pitch above the Pedestal on Outer Space (25 ft. up). I'm sure it was there for more than 15 years before it was removed. Why was this tolerated on one of Leavenworth's most classic climbs?

Jon

[Charlie]

that bolt was there for the same reason that there is an old bolt on cocaine crack and classic crack- the same reason every crack in yosemite has a line of scars going the whole length of it. That is "trad" climbing. Climbing a crack while placing removable protection along the way is not "traditional" by any means. Most lines(including outer space) were aided, by use of pitons and quarter inch bolts origionally. Old bolts on old climbs are not an issue- new bolts on climbs that were previously lead without them are an issue.

[crazyjizzy]

That bolt was a totally rusty piece of shit when I first climbed OS in the late seventies. I am sure it either just fell out, rusted off, or came out in someones hand. It dates (I am sure) to the dark ages when Retro, Pete, Victor, and I were babies (little ones that is). Some poor misguided sap didn't have enough pins. Remember, the first edition of "Mountaineering : Freedom..." had a section on how to place a bolt. This is nothing new. What I wonder about is the big shiny bolt on top of the pedestal. I don't ever remember seeing a bolt there before, although it is on the start of Remourse.

[crazyjizzy]

quote:

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Originally posted by crazyjz:

That bolt was a totally rusty piece of shit when I first climbed OS in the late seventies. I am sure it either just fell out, rusted off, or came out in someones hand. It dates (I am sure) to the dark ages when Retro, Pete, Victor, and I were babies (little ones that is). Some poor misguided sap didn't have enough pins. Remember, the first edition of "Mountaineering : Freedom..." had a section on how to place a bolt. This is nothing new. What I wonder about is the big shiny bolt on top of the pedestal. I don't ever remember seeing a bolt there before, although it is on the start of the final Remourse headwall.

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[crazyjizzy]

It is cool when you can quote yourself! I am a fucking computer illiterate, as well as an abrasive little dick.

[Retrosaurus]

quote:

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Originally posted by JJason:

Mitch,

Is it correct to assume that you were the one who chopped the old 1/4" bolt on the 1st crack pitch on the Shield of Outer Space?

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No. That is a poor assumption.

[Retrosaurus]

quote:

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Originally posted by crazyjz:

What I wonder about is the big shiny bolt on top of the pedestal. I don't ever remember seeing a bolt there before, although it is on the start of Remourse.

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I noticed it too. I am reasonablly sure that the intent of that bolt is to minimize the rope drag that you get hauling rope over the top of the pedestal when belaying the second.

[pms]

it sounds like a smart place for a good bolt. Thanks to that person.

[Terminal_Gravity]

I have a couple of SMC split bolts with hangers that anybody can have for the cost of postage and an assurance that your a responsible climber and not some pro-on-rap piece-of-shit sporty. I'll never use them.

Yes, I put in two bolts back in the 80's on a first ascent in the Feather River Canyon, CA. I still regret it. The route could have been a fine top rope problem; it was my ego that needed my name in a guide.

[chucK]

That bolt above the pedestal replaces an old rusty one. I can understand how people would miss that old one since I missed it myself the first n times I climbed OS. Didn't find it until someone else led and clipped it. Yes, it does work very well to reduce rope drag. If you're just worried about rope drag though, it seems like the old one would have sufficed. Maybe it's to protect RPM?

Chuck

Chuck

 

[Beck]

Who's busting bolts off top rope problems in the Icicle?

If they think they are climbers, they've got some growing up to do.

[Charlie]

I saw the missing hangers at clamshell also- I just figured somebody was bolting ANOTHER slab in the icicle and couldn't afford to buy thier own hangers- spent all thier money on lycra tights and bits for thier rotohammers.

[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 09-24-2001).]