first ascent La Gota Fria, 18p, 5.11b (A0), Deputy Wall, Squ.

[chris_stolz]

For your consideration... Gumbies! On! Crack! http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010/07/la-gota-fria-18p-511b-a0-512d.html

Edited July 12, 2010 by chris_stolz

[pazzo]

Pic of route:

http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010/07/route-topo-crude-picture.html

[chris_stolz]

if anybody climbs this, Driller and I would love some feedback-- more/fewer bolts, grades, etc.

[chris_stolz]

Here is a one-page printable topo.

 

http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010/07/one-page-topo-for-your-climbing.html

[layton]

nice job that looks like a lot of fun and like it took a ton of effort!!!

[chris_stolz]

nice job that looks like a lot of fun and like it took a ton of effort!!!

 

Ya, thanks layton. It took about 58 man-days, $1100 and one billion cups of coffee. it's actually a decent line...if you can climb 5.11, no sweat; if you can't it has very short cruxes which can be easily aided on either bolts or bomber gear.

[summitchaserCJB]

wow.

[genepires]

just curious.. what did you need to buy that cost a total of $1100? if it was just bolts, wouldn't that be about 110 bolts? (assuming one bolt and hanger costs $10) 110 bolts for a 18 pitch line is at about 6 per pitch with two of those at the anchors.

 

thanks for putting up the route. sounds cool.

[chris_stolz]

just curious.. what did you need to buy that cost a total of $1100? if it was just bolts, wouldn't that be about 110 bolts? (assuming one bolt and hanger costs $10) 110 bolts for a 18 pitch line is at about 6 per pitch with two of those at the anchors.

 

thanks for putting up the route. sounds cool.

 

The route is mostly trad. However, since Squamish has a serious re-vegetation problem, we dwanted to make it as accessible as possible. So, our first 5.12+ pitch is bolted enough that you can French-free it at A0. our second 5.12 pitch has a bolt ladder that bypasses it (partly cos this pitch is hard, and partly cos it is almost always wet). And our 14th pitch is a slabby traverse at 5.10b that needed 8 bolts.

 

As far as $$ goes, we went through

 

-- about 80 bolts ($300)

-- 14 rap stations (ringed hangars) or so $~120)

-- 3 sets of gardening shears $45) 2 destroyed

-- 3 crowbars ($45) 2 lost

-- 1 lead line destroyed ($150)

-- 3 nut tools 2 destroyed ($30)

-- 10 wire brushes ($120)

-- one new battery for the drill ($140)

-- 5 drill bits ($45)

 

It takes an average of 4 man/days and i would say $50-90/pitch to put up a new route. So I am now REALLY in awe of all the first ascentionists from years ago who made so many awesome routes for the rest of us to enjoy. I spent 10 years in Squamish climbing, with only minor contributions, and now I am happy that I have added a route as a kind of payback for others' hard work.

 

Now go climb it, folks!

[summitchaserCJB]

Sounds fun. I'll maybe try it in the future.

 

[genepires]

I was thinking that your route is probably on average for all routes put up in squish. If so, then there must be hundreds of thousands of dollars put into the chief and surrounding areas.

 

Who says climbers are cheap and don't contribute?

Edited July 18, 2010 by genepires

[pazzo]

Jumped on it yesterday! Having started late in the afternoon, we rapped from the top of the third (.11-) pitch. It will need quite a few more ascents before most of the loose stuff comes off. We were kicking off LOTS of crap and I broke a foothold on one of the pitches which sent me flying

 

Nonetheless the climbing was good (from what we did) and I look forward to completing the full route soon.

 

Good job to the team who put this together. Although I must ask, who drilled the bolts on the first three pitches (including anchors)?

 

**Bring your helmet

[chris_stolz]

Jumped on it yesterday! Having started late in the afternoon, we rapped from the top of the third (.11-) pitch. It will need quite a few more ascents before most of the loose stuff comes off. We were kicking off LOTS of crap and I broke a foothold on one of the pitches which sent me flying

 

Nonetheless the climbing was good (from what we did) and I look forward to completing the full route soon.

 

Good job to the team who put this together. Although I must ask, who drilled the bolts on the first three pitches (including anchors)?

 

**Bring your helmet

 

Hi Pazzo--

 

The anchors on P1 were drilled by somebody, we have no idea who. P1 bolting was done by Mike Blicker and Dylan Connelly. If you are wondering why the P1 first bolt is so high, I wonder too, cos Mike is short (5'1") and he drilled it! P2 bolting, me. Anchor atop P2, me-- although it was a b*tch putting this one in, because on arriving at the stance, there were epic huge loose flakes where the bolts currently are, and the rock where the stance is better is crap. We actually chopped our first belay there and put in two new bolts. Anchor atop P3 (11b) me. if there is a lesson to be learned, it's that rap bolting sucks-- best to do it on lead. When we were done, and we climbed the route free, we liked our lead-bolted pitches the best. But you could not always bolt everythign on lead on this one.

 

Curious-- did you feel the grades for P1,2,3 were fair (10d, 9,11b)? Or perhaps on P1 you did the 11b lieback?

 

I am glad you liked it. It has LOADS of quality pitches on it IMHO the best one is the last 55m 10c pitch in the V-slot with its awesome position and cool stemming.

 

chris

Edited July 18, 2010 by chris_stolz

[pazzo]

Chris,

 

The grades seem fine.

 

I'll let you know how the rest of the route is when we get back on it (hopefully earlier than 4:00 next time).

[billcoe]

The route is mostly trad. However, since Squamish has a serious re-vegetation problem, we wanted to make it as accessible as possible. So, our first 5.12+ pitch is bolted enough that you can French-free it at A0. our second 5.12 pitch has a bolt ladder that bypasses it (partly cos this pitch is hard, and partly cos it is almost always wet). And our 14th pitch is a slabby traverse at 5.10b that needed 8 bolts.

 

As far as $$ goes, we went through

 

-- about 80 bolts ($300)

-- 14 rap stations (ringed hangars) or so $~120)

-- 3 sets of gardening shears $45) 2 destroyed

-- 3 crowbars ($45) 2 lost

-- 1 lead line destroyed ($150)

-- 3 nut tools 2 destroyed ($30)

-- 10 wire brushes ($120)

-- one new battery for the drill ($140)

-- 5 drill bits ($45)

 

It takes an average of 4 man/days and i would say $50-90/pitch to put up a new route. So I am now REALLY in awe of all the first ascentionists from years ago who made so many awesome routes for the rest of us to enjoy. I spent 10 years in Squamish climbing, with only minor contributions, and now I am happy that I have added a route as a kind of payback for others' hard work.

 

Now go climb it, folks!

 

KICK ASS GENTLEMEN! KICK ASS! BIG PROPS AND DEEP RESPECT! WOOT! That fawking line itself it probably better the 10 best lines all added up together around here...droool!!!!

Good call on thinking of the others who will follow. A++ Gentlemen! A++ I can see the parts which will be wet from the pic. Nice job on pre-planning and being considerate of others! P7 = "Wet like your wife!!! " LOL!

 

(btw, as an aside, folks can rebuild batteries I hear)

[chris_stolz]

Billcoe-- thanks very much for the shout-out. It's not ALL awesome-- p10 is a piece of crap, and the 2nd pitch is not a mind-blower by any means-- but overall it is quite good. In quality it is not quite the clean magnificence of the Grand Wall, but it is definitely as good as Angel's Crest, Millenium Falcon, etc. If the Grand is a 5-star route, ours is 4.

 

We really owe a huge debt to Jeremy Frimer, who spent a fair bit of time getting us to think about issues regarding how hard the route should be, bolting, re-vegetation, etc. Gumbies need guys to mold them and Frimer molded us.

 

Oh, and one more thing-- while the FCA was doen by Dylan Connelly and Chris Stolz, many of the pitches were first freed by Mike Blicker, who is gunning for the FCFA of the 12+ version.

Edited July 20, 2010 by chris_stolz

[chris_stolz]

I was thinking that your route is probably on average for all routes put up in squish. If so, then there must be hundreds of thousands of dollars put into the chief and surrounding areas.

 

Who says climbers are cheap and don't contribute?

 

Yea, it is hard to say exactly what each route is "worth", but here goes...there's I think 1,250 routes in most recent McLane guide (this does not include sport areas in the Sea to Sky corridor, or boulder problems). if you conservatively estimate $50/pitch for gear (bolts etc) alone...you get $600,000 in stuff, and in terms of man-hours, well, 80,000 would not be an underestimate, and if we were to "pay" people for making routes at $10/hour...yea, there's a fair bit of social caPITAL iinvested in Squamish!

[MStyles]

fca: chris stolz dylan connelloy

fa's:

pitch 1. myles holt.

pitch 2. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 3. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 4. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 5. dylan connelly, chris stolz

pitch 6. dylan, chris

pitch 7, dylan chris

pitch 8, dylan chris

pitch 9. chis, dylan

pitch 10, chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 11. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 12. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 13. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 14. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 15. chris stolz, mike blicker

pitch 16. fa mike blicker

pitch 17. fa unknown. none of us

pitch 18. fa unknown. none of us.

 

first free ascents of individual pitches

pitch 1. ian bennett

pitch 2. chris, mike

pitch 3. chris, mike

pitch 4. mike blicker

pitch 5. NO FFA. closed for FFA attempts for the moment

pitch 6. chris/dylan

pitch 7. NO FFA. closed for FFA attempts for the moment

pitch 8. dylan/chris

pitch 9. dylan /chris

pitch 10. mike blicker

pitch 11. all 3 of us i would assume.

pitch 12. chris/ dylan

pitch 13. chris/ dylan

pitch 14. mike blicker

pitch 15. ryan hasselly/mike blicker

pitch 16. mike blicker

pitch 17. dylan / chris

pitch 18. dylan /chris

 

and there you have it. no continuous free ascent yet. and its closed for a Continuous ascent for the moment except to people who have been contacted within the community (many of whom are amazing climbers and will be far better than I will ever be).

[marc_leclerc]

I'm a Squamish local.. can I try to free it?

[summitchaserCJB]

haha nice Marc.

[pazzo]

I'm a Squamish local.. can I try to free it?

 

No. You are from Agassiz and people from there are not allowed to try this route until further notice

 

Mike and I are going to work it when he gets back next week

[MStyles]

@marc. no you can't. if i wanted to free one of your routes in Hope, BC what would you do.

 

 

[chris_stolz]

@marc. no you can't. if i wanted to free one of your routes in Hope, BC what would you do.

 

 

Ya this is Mike's proj right now so respect it. If you did free it, however, the tactful thing to do would be to not say anything about it. 50 man-days of work went into this route and the people who did the work should get first shot at freeing it.

[G-spotter]

@marc. no you can't. if i wanted to free one of your routes in Hope, BC what would you do.

 

 

He'd encourage you to give it a go.

[MStyles]

locals that we know vs random guy (marc). not a tough decision.