Alpine Route Suggestions

[jimmythegoon]

I just started alpine climbing this year and I'm looking for some good, moderately challenging routes that could be done in a weekend (starting from Seattle).

 

I'm comfortably leading 5.8 (but no offwidth experience) and would like to start venturing into 5.9 territory. The only routes I've done so far are the west ridge of sherpa, north face of burgundy, and sw rib of sews.

 

What are some of your favorites/suggestions in the 5.7-5.9 range?

Thanks.

 

 

[denalidave]

Prusik Peak W ridge is an easy alpine route, yet very beautiful. I think the crux goes 5.7, but only for a move or two.

[summitchaserCJB]

North cascades has some of the finest in the area. Liberty bell group, torment forbidden traverse, so on and so forth.

[Le Piston]

I have to agree with Denalidave...Prusik West Ridge is one of the best moderate alpine rock climbs in the state. You might also look at (as Summitchaser said) Liberty Bell (Beckey Route), Ingalls Peak, Stuart West Ridge, Dorado Needle, and Dragontail's Serpentine arete. These have been among my favorites for decent rock, great views, and moderate difficulty.

[kurthicks]

The Liberty Bell Group traverse. Start on the Beckey route of Liberty Bell, then onto the north face (or cave route) on concord, the north face of lexington, the chockstone on n.e.w.s., and finish up on the south arete or SW buttress of south early.

 

 

[goatboy]

I've never climbed the chockstone route on NEWS - thought I've descended it 3-4 times. How is it?

 

I might also suggest the obvious alpine rock routes Orbit and Outer Space.

[Rad]

I'd suggest E Ridge Direct on Forbidden (5.8). It is much longer, has much better views, and more interesting climbing than Prusik W Ridge.

 

 

[Rad]

N Ridge of Stuart is also great. The 5.9 sections could easily be aided if necessary.

[jimmythegoon]

Thanks all for the suggestions. That Liberty group traverse sounds awesome. What does that end up going at? 5.7 or so?

[kurthicks]

yep. a fun, moderate day, that can be bailed at any time. i remember the second rap of the NF of concord to be from a somewhat sketchy anchor. take a spare medium to large stopper to add to it.

[fenderfour]

Liberty Bell Enchainment TR

 

If you bring two ropes (think doubles or twins) there is no reason to worry about the intermediate anchor on Concord that I didn't see at all two weeks ago.

[spotly]

I've never climbed the chockstone route on NEWS - thought I've descended it 3-4 times. How is it?

 

The last part of the descent (over the chockstone) is on part of the route. The upper part is at the head of the gully. A few scarey-loose sections but overall easy climbing.