Leavenworth beta request

[miladugga]

Super newbie questions: I'm looking at the 5.8+ on the top tier of bath tub dome, and ground hog day on february buttress. Assuming I have 60m ropes, do I need two ropes for the last rappells, or are there descent routes in the guide that I'm not seeing? Also is the 5.8 like classic crack 5.8 or pearly gates 5.8? Thanks.

[sobo]

Super newbie questions: I'm looking at the 5.8+ on the top tier of bath tub dome, and ground hog day on february buttress. Assuming I have 60m ropes, do I need two ropes for the last rappells, or are there descent routes in the guide that I'm not seeing? Also is the 5.8 like classic crack 5.8 or pearly gates 5.8? Thanks.

At the 2005 Rope-Up, dkemp (DoxManDude) and I did GHD. We managed to complete the route, then the skies opened up on us at the top of the climb. We had a single 60m rope and were able to extricate ourselves from the downpour admirably. Moral: A single 60 will get you down.

 

Re Bathtub Dome, if you're talking about Just Ducky, then you will need two ropes to get down.

[Crillz]

Pretty sure you need two ropes to rap from Bathtub Dome. I think I waited up there in the wind one day, waiting for our other rope to get to the top.

 

Not sure if you wanted beta, but the hand crack looking pitch is the one that I've done. It has a bolt about 40' up and you may be glad to have a tiny cam for the start.

Edited June 29, 2010 by Crillz

[genepires]

We did that feb buttress route this spring with one 60m rope. Was VERY careful with that first rappel as it is a solid 30 plus a little extra rappel but I think we made to the anchor with 2" of extra rope. You can walk off bath tub dome.

 

I think bath tub dome 5.8 is like pearly gate 5.8.

[miladugga]

Thanks, we ended up going to playground point and doing a bunch of routes, which was OK, then toproping the slab at hammerhead rock until we got tired. The next day went to bathtub dome and did the two 5.7 pitches, which were very nice, then went up to look at condor buttress, which looked inviting. Nice short trip, only nearly stepped on one rattle snake.

[sobo]

Thanks, we ended up going to playground point and doing a bunch of routes, which was OK, then toproping the slab at hammerhead rock until we got tired. The next day went to bathtub dome and did the two 5.7 pitches, which were very nice, then went up to look at condor buttress, which looked inviting. Nice short trip, only nearly stepped on one rattle snake.

Yeah, that happens a lot... Prepare for epicdom. Think Yoder-Briody...

[kurthicks]

nope. need a 70m on february buttress last time I climbed it.

[sobo]

Oh, c'mon, Kurt, the route didn't get any longer in 5 years. Put a little excitement in your life!

Seriously, it can be done with a single 60m, just line Gene said, but it's really tight. Just please don't rap off the end.

[kurthicks]

maybe a long 60m like a mammut. i've done the route 4 times this year alone and haven't had a 60m get me there one time.

[miladugga]

Regardless of the truth, I'm going to use this as an excuse to buy a 70m rope.

[Sherri]

Regardless of the truth, I'm going to use this as an excuse to buy a 70m rope.

 

Then you'll be set for Index, as well.

[keenwesh]

a 70m is the best thing ever at index.I'm trying to scrounge up funds for one as well.

[genepires]

if you were 15 pounds heavier, the rope would stretch enough to reach the anchors. So the real solution is for you to use the new rope money on fatty foods instead. Do you know how many burgers you can get for the price of a rope? Like 150 burgers from the dollar menu or god knows how many cheap taco-hell soft tacos.

 

Our rope is a rather old (so it prolly has shrunk somewhat) 60 m rope that BD was distributing. It would be interesting to measure it out but my feel is that it is 57m rope. You must have been using some really short 60m ropes.

[genepires]

As a victim of a rappelling accident I must say that one should have a 70 m rope for feb buttress. Not worth the hazard to try a sketch out that rappel. It is a long way up and zero chance of making it alive if botched. We weren't intending of doing that route but ended up there after finding lots of wet rock everywhere else.