Khartoum Wood Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I'm looking for info regarding technical gear up to date Route conditions or any other useful info.Planing an ascent in about the next 2 weeks. thanks much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 wouldnt think you would need much technical gear in early season besides the rope two tools and maybe a couple screws/pickets. also depends how comfortable you feel on steepish snow. be fit and go light and fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 A single second tool for the entire rope team that will be shared by each individual at the bergshrund is also a common approach and nice way to shave pounds off the packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khartoum Wood Posted May 29, 2010 Author Share Posted May 29, 2010 So if one was to climb the ridge in one push how long would that take or is that even possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 depends how fit and aclimitized you are but if your flatlander like me you better take 2 or 3 days. go lite on the comfort stuff but dont skimp on storm esentials fuel,gps,wind protection,goggles, ect.. may-june can get some wicked storms up above 10k. but if your fit and the forecast is good go for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 So if one was to climb the ridge in one push how long would that take or is that even possible. Yes, it is possible and has been done in as little as 18 hours car to car, although that may not be the record. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 Dan, you did the route in a day didn't you say? ----- I doubt anyone gets up the route this Holiday Weekend. It is downright nasty outside my house right now. The best beta for this route is to wear boots with good ankle flex so you can French Technique up the whole thing. ------ Lib Ridge is one of the most classic enjoyable alpine routes in North America. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 Jens, No, I took two days - car to car in 30 hours, with a 12 hour bivi at Thumb Rock. I have a partner who did the route car to car in under 24 hours. The 18 hours is something I heard somewhere, yet seems very reasonably given good acclimatiztion and conditions. Dan Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khartoum Wood Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) It might be fun to climb it in an all out push now but i think maybe it would be even better to wait till that turns to ice as a good long hard ice route is what I'm looking for.Baker head wall may be a better bet or the North Ridge on Baker.so with all this info there shouldn't be any need to use ice screws at this time of year am I correct? Edited May 31, 2010 by Khartoum Wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 i would probibly take one per person, you might need one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 it is a good idea to take at least one screw per person up something technical. What would you do if you had to climb through a schrund? Conditions change and it is best to be like a boyscout, prepared that is. My first up n ridge baker, we had 3 old chouinard screws which was inadequate. Coleman headwall, we had 3 and that was enough. Both in may. If there was a crack that was unpassable by walking, we would not have the gear to get through it. given that we are having a late winter, you could probably get by without screws if you are a bad ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khartoum Wood Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 No i plan to bring a partner and loads of screws but I'm waiting till conditions harden up i want an ice climb not a hike and at this time N Ridge will give me what I'm looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 true enough but its a big hike, by the way are you from the 70s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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