[TR] Snow Creek Wall - Orbit 5/11/2010

[eldiente]

Dude I think I know of this Solvenian girl you speak of! Is there a pair of them perhaps? I saw these two Eastern bloc girls up on the Squaw, they asked for beta and sounded lost. I assumed they were newbies and going to bail once they figured out where they were. Nope, a few minutes later I see them float up the first pitch of the "Great Game" placing minimal gear.

 

 

[fenderfour]

Rattletale p2 is pretty amazing...

[Crillz]

Rattletale p2 is pretty amazing...

 

:tup:

 

Last time I was up there, I saw someone attempt to lieback the whole thing! Fierce!

[TrogdortheBurninator]

For pure cracks, seems that tieton has a lot to offer. I think the OS crack still has to take the cake though given the awesome position and length (300' of 5.6-5.7 w/ 5' of 5.9). Also, it seems that most folks jam that thing for pleasure and security, even if it is unnecessary with all the chicken heads. Similar to Klahanie I suppose.

[selkirk]

For pure cracks, seems that tieton has a lot to offer. I think the OS crack still has to take the cake though given the awesome position and length (300' of 5.6-5.7 w/ 5' of 5.9). Also, it seems that most folks jam that thing for pleasure and security, even if it is unnecessary with all the chicken heads. Similar to Klahanie I suppose.

 

Am I the only one who finds Klahanie, awkward, slightly painful, and very dis-satisfying? Kardhu crack is right next door and a whole lot more fun!

[counterfeitfake]

Dude I think I know of this Solvenian girl you speak of! Is there a pair of them perhaps? I saw these two Eastern bloc girls up on the Squaw, they asked for beta and sounded lost. I assumed they were newbies and going to bail once they figured out where they were. Nope, a few minutes later I see them float up the first pitch of the "Great Game" placing minimal gear.

 

Last summer? Sounds like them. The blonde was the badder ass of the two and knew how to hand jam. The dark-haired one wasn't so comfortable doing that so she just followed the entire pillar as a layback. Just ridiculous. We were around town for a week and ended up giving them car rides a couple of times. Got to hear a story about eating marmot in some European mountain range...

[counterfeitfake]

P2 of Davis-Holland is an awesome thin hands crack.

[rocketparrotlet]

What size cam does Angel Crack take? I was considering it, but I have fairly small hands- #1 Camalot is perfect hands for me. But 0.75 might be kind of hard.

 

-Mark

[summitchaserCJB]

It is fingers. Alien sizes yellow and green and red.

[rocketparrotlet]

Tough stuff. Yellow is perfect, bigger is hard. Maybe I'll follow it to practice technical jams.

[j_b]

3rd pitch of heart of the country has a great moderate handcrack.

[Buckaroo]

Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also.

[Buckaroo]

he said he was off route "for the 2nd to the last 200ft" so he's talking height not distance off to the side.

[j_b]

Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also.

 

I am pretty sure it's the 3rd pitch, although they are relatively short pitches. It should be noted that access to it can be had by following GM which keeps the entire climb moderate.

 

Not to be too whiny but the 2nd pitch of DH gets a little too wide for me for it to be a comfortable hand crack. Even more so for Rattletale.

[counterfeitfake]

Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also.

 

I am pretty sure it's the 3rd pitch, although they are relatively short pitches. It should be noted that access to it can be had by following GM which keeps the entire climb moderate.

 

Yes, third pitch.

 

Not to be too whiny but the 2nd pitch of DH gets a little too wide for me for it to be a comfortable hand crack. Even more so for Rattletale.

 

You mean the part where it's not steep anymore? Up to that point it's thin hands?

 

Yeah, Rattletale really depends on your hand size, it's wide for me too and my hand gets torn up at the top. But, if you can only do a jam at one specific width, you aren't much of a crack climber, so here's to practice.

 

 

I'm trying to think of other great hand cracks... the ones that are obvious to me have been named.

 

Breakfast of Champions deserves mention although the straight-up hand jamming doesn't last too long. Oh! Of course, Thin Fingers has a very good hand jamming section.

 

Jam Exam is a great crack that requires some versatility.

 

Karate Crack is SWEET although I think a lot of it is just finding constrictions and using your hand as a chock.

Edited May 19, 2010 by counterfeitfake

[Crack]

Sex Party: Mid-East Wall is either pretty dreamy or boring, depending on what you consider 'perfect hands' over and over and over again...

[j_b]

as far as I know, between hands and fists, there are only uncomfortable and often painful jams, no?

[Buckaroo]

Well after climbing OS Saturday for the 7th time have to say the hand crack pitch is the best hand crack in the state. 140' of perfect hands and it's slightly flared so it fits all size hands. Nice knobs for the feet too so you don't hurt your toes wedging them.

 

It was like climbing the thing all over again since it had been 10 years since I climbed it last.

 

funny how there was only one other party on it on a sunny Saturday. Maybe because it was raining in Seattle and it was a little cold in Leavenworth