eldiente Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Dude I think I know of this Solvenian girl you speak of! Is there a pair of them perhaps? I saw these two Eastern bloc girls up on the Squaw, they asked for beta and sounded lost. I assumed they were newbies and going to bail once they figured out where they were. Nope, a few minutes later I see them float up the first pitch of the "Great Game" placing minimal gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Rattletale p2 is pretty amazing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Rattletale p2 is pretty amazing... :tup: Last time I was up there, I saw someone attempt to lieback the whole thing! Fierce! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 For pure cracks, seems that tieton has a lot to offer. I think the OS crack still has to take the cake though given the awesome position and length (300' of 5.6-5.7 w/ 5' of 5.9). Also, it seems that most folks jam that thing for pleasure and security, even if it is unnecessary with all the chicken heads. Similar to Klahanie I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 For pure cracks, seems that tieton has a lot to offer. I think the OS crack still has to take the cake though given the awesome position and length (300' of 5.6-5.7 w/ 5' of 5.9). Also, it seems that most folks jam that thing for pleasure and security, even if it is unnecessary with all the chicken heads. Similar to Klahanie I suppose. Am I the only one who finds Klahanie, awkward, slightly painful, and very dis-satisfying? Kardhu crack is right next door and a whole lot more fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Dude I think I know of this Solvenian girl you speak of! Is there a pair of them perhaps? I saw these two Eastern bloc girls up on the Squaw, they asked for beta and sounded lost. I assumed they were newbies and going to bail once they figured out where they were. Nope, a few minutes later I see them float up the first pitch of the "Great Game" placing minimal gear. Last summer? Sounds like them. The blonde was the badder ass of the two and knew how to hand jam. The dark-haired one wasn't so comfortable doing that so she just followed the entire pillar as a layback. Just ridiculous. We were around town for a week and ended up giving them car rides a couple of times. Got to hear a story about eating marmot in some European mountain range... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 P2 of Davis-Holland is an awesome thin hands crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 What size cam does Angel Crack take? I was considering it, but I have fairly small hands- #1 Camalot is perfect hands for me. But 0.75 might be kind of hard. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 14, 2010 Author Share Posted May 14, 2010 It is fingers. Alien sizes yellow and green and red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketparrotlet Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Tough stuff. Yellow is perfect, bigger is hard. Maybe I'll follow it to practice technical jams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 3rd pitch of heart of the country has a great moderate handcrack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 he said he was off route "for the 2nd to the last 200ft" so he's talking height not distance off to the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also. I am pretty sure it's the 3rd pitch, although they are relatively short pitches. It should be noted that access to it can be had by following GM which keeps the entire climb moderate. Not to be too whiny but the 2nd pitch of DH gets a little too wide for me for it to be a comfortable hand crack. Even more so for Rattletale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also. I am pretty sure it's the 3rd pitch, although they are relatively short pitches. It should be noted that access to it can be had by following GM which keeps the entire climb moderate. Yes, third pitch. Not to be too whiny but the 2nd pitch of DH gets a little too wide for me for it to be a comfortable hand crack. Even more so for Rattletale. You mean the part where it's not steep anymore? Up to that point it's thin hands? Yeah, Rattletale really depends on your hand size, it's wide for me too and my hand gets torn up at the top. But, if you can only do a jam at one specific width, you aren't much of a crack climber, so here's to practice. I'm trying to think of other great hand cracks... the ones that are obvious to me have been named. Breakfast of Champions deserves mention although the straight-up hand jamming doesn't last too long. Oh! Of course, Thin Fingers has a very good hand jamming section. Jam Exam is a great crack that requires some versatility. Karate Crack is SWEET although I think a lot of it is just finding constrictions and using your hand as a chock. Edited May 19, 2010 by counterfeitfake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crack Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Sex Party: Mid-East Wall is either pretty dreamy or boring, depending on what you consider 'perfect hands' over and over and over again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 as far as I know, between hands and fists, there are only uncomfortable and often painful jams, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Well after climbing OS Saturday for the 7th time have to say the hand crack pitch is the best hand crack in the state. 140' of perfect hands and it's slightly flared so it fits all size hands. Nice knobs for the feet too so you don't hurt your toes wedging them. It was like climbing the thing all over again since it had been 10 years since I climbed it last. funny how there was only one other party on it on a sunny Saturday. Maybe because it was raining in Seattle and it was a little cold in Leavenworth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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