LostCamKenny Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Since i am just stewing in the wake of a fall that occurred just six weeks ago, the most excitement i get these days is from dvd - and reading about mito and oleg's epic i have been injured before, injured with a back problem, even... but i was able to fight through the pain and make a swift return. this injury, however, has left me utterly helpless - and in a constant state of boredom since all i can do is stare at my giant aquarium, at work, and my rack as it collects dust in the gear closet, at home. reading has been the best therapy, figuring that if i can't do "it" then i might as well read about "it." of course i have ventured to literary lands not containing the mountaineering fauna, also, but i am quickly, wearily, growing restless with my activities as i await the upcoming day when i can squeeze back into a harness and get back to "the game." since this is my first serious injury - and i have never been out longer than a month with any ailment - i am wondering what others experiences have been with injury and brief cessation from the climbing arts and sciences... what happened to you and how long was yer recovery? what did you do to occupy yer time during recovery? with which activities did you start when you were mobile enough move more athletically? how long has it been since this injury occurred to you, and are/were you expected to make a full recovery with full range of motion regained? what was the best form of therapy(physical, psychological, spiritual, etc...)? were the doctors more or less helpful? mainly i am interested in other folk's experiences... tired of the same ol' stuff and want something new to think about... help out if you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 I tore an A2 finger pulley in Feb. and haven't free climbed since. I specify "free climbing" because I have started dabbling in aid climbing, which doesn't require any crimping. Obviously this doesn't apply to you quite so much since you can't be quite so active though. It has been good to see this aspect of climbing, and will be a good tool to have in the back pocket... The wife and I have also been exploring local waterways in our sea kayaks, which don't get used nearly as much as they should. She also just ran a marathon last weekend and can't do much hiking around right now, so the kayaks are going to be a nice cross trainer until we are both up and running again. We haven't owned a TV for years, and I am glad I dont have one now, because I'd be glued to it. It is a cop out to be a couch potato when a minor injury happens. There is always something you can do to be active. (not calling your situation a cop out though; you've got a properly F'd body right now) Sorry I cant come up with anything more inspirational. Just find something you CAN do as soon as the doc clears you to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 List of injuries is too long to write down. But really no serious injuries until the last couple of years. At least what I would call "serious". To me "serious" now is a few months off instead of a few weeks so my perspective has changed. And "serious" means you are reminded of it daily for a few years to come. Best rehab is what you can do. When I couldn't walk inside, I walked in a pool. When I could swim I started there. Still couldn't walk though. Then on my bike with a trainier and finally on the road. When I couldn't climb, I hiked. There was a time not long ago I couldn't walk to the end of the block. Then later I could walk a mile. Then 10. I ice climb because I still can't climb difficult rock. See a pattern? Do what you can and let pain be your guide as long as you aren't reinjuring yourself. You have to be your own advocate no matter how good your Doc or PT folks are. Nothing is forever...well very few things anyway....if you are willing to put in the work. FWIW I am 2 years out on my last major injury. And not a day goes by that I am not reminded of something physically. But I also get a little better every day as well. So there is always progress if I am willing to put in the effort. In the end it never seems like a long time to wait and the injuries don't seem all that bad. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 ...FWIW I am 2 years out on my last major injury... Jeebus Christ, has it been 2 years already?? Yes, I guess it has, just this past Tuesday. You sure have come back fuq'n strong, Dane. Good on ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Hey Sobo! Just reread the original post....dude, that was grim. We should have a reunion Your lead this time though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Indeed it was grim... for you and Debbie, that is. We should have a reunion. We should get Sherri to show up, since she helped out a bit, too. And I guess I will have to lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Make a date and let me know when...it would be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Kenny, keep working your fingers and legs and as your back strengthens start on the arms and later torso. Get some pro help via asking the physical therapist. I just saw this or I would have said something yesterday when you came out to play. Good to see you out and about! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 I misunderstood your meaning of "it" at first. Good look at recovering. Reading is a good way to pass the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Sorry to hear about your accident Kenny. I've had one major accident climbing (broken talus & dislocated ankle) that resulted in 6 months of crutches and another 6 months of physical therapy. I still have metal in me, don't have full range of motion, and have a great excuse to not lead shitty slab pitches. Doctors and physical therapists were great, though I found that it was a lot easier/more fun to follow how my ankle was feeling day to day instead of their general advice. Started TRing ice 3 months into my PT (9 months after the accident), but it took about a year and a half before I could be on the ball rock climbing. I still have a lingering weakness in my ankle that becomes a bitch when climbing slabs or a lot of 35 degree ice. During recovery, I found that even the little things that involved pushing myself were the best way to stay sane. Same went for mellow camping trips where I could do the approach on crutches. Anything that involved the mental and spiritual sides of climbing kept my spirits up. Meditation can help, but only if you're actually interested in it. I also drank a lot (it was winter in the PNW) and managed to be a stupid teenager as much as possible on crutches. Anything to get your kicks in. Just remember that these things pass and in the meantime pick up a less intensive hobby or activity instead of obsessing over the climbing you'll do when you're better. Hope you get back in action soon. We'll have to get some climbing in once Beacon opens up again. I'm down to bring a pony keg up to the tree ledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 I'm down to bring a pony keg up to the tree ledge. we'd better make it a party ball - the pony kegs are still pretty damn heavy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Thanks to bill, dane, 111, and Colin for yer thoughtful responses and advice... i'm up to 9 weeks now and ready to go. movin slowly and gettin better every day. hope to be back in the saddle soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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