[TR] Index Town Wall - Pisces, Breakfast of Champions, Heart of the Count 3/18/2010

[summitchaserCJB]

Trip: Index Town Wall - Pisces, Breakfast of Champions, Heart of the Count

 

Date: 3/18/2010

 

Trip Report:

Todd and I had a great day of hard climbing with no falls, weights, or other crap. He sent Pisces, the last pitch of Heart of the Country (5.10) and the GNS.

I sent the middle pitch of Heart of the Country (10b) , Pisces, and Breakfast of Champions clean. Overall 5 pitches at or above 5.10a. I'll leave it at that. Thanks for reading. What a day for sending. Todd's got a lot more juicy video/photos.

 

Gear Notes:

lots of it

Edited March 19, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[Pilchuck71]

Another freaking Index report?

 

Just Kidding!

Looks like a great day out.

Nice!

[Sherri]

Never get tired of seeing those Index cracks.

 

Too bad we can't figure out a way to use all these Index TR's to generate some $$ for the cause.

[Crillz]

Above 5.10a? Hmmmm. Nonetheless, thanks for the stoke!

[summitchaserCJB]

umm..whats to hmm at. If anything I should say 5.10a or above. My bad.

[Good2Go]

The issue was that none of the routes you mentioned are above 10a. Personally, I liked the pics and stoke, so thanks for posting.

[summitchaserCJB]

5.10b heart of the country (according to Rock Climbing Washington)

Edited March 19, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[Good2Go]

That book is notoriously incorrect about a lot of things, including grades. I'm sure others will chime in if they disagree, but consensus is that HotC is 10a. Not trying to diminish your accomplishment btw. Was a very challenging climb for me when I was first working it. Nice send. Now, go get on Rattletale and Sagittarius and report back when you've fired em.

[summitchaserCJB]

I know the grade is disputed for sure. I think Breakfast is the hardest thing I did yesterday but HOTC is hard as well. I just need a number 5 for Sag but it is definitely on the list. I don't know Rattletale but I'm looking it up now. Thanks!

[summitchaserCJB]

Just to add some more stoke. The pitch after the 5.10a/b pitch of HOTC (the one everyone does) is a nice 5.10 overhanging crack that not as many people do. It is definitely worth it. It is possible to do, from the ground up, all of GM and the last half of HOTC, in one huge monster pitch with a 60 m rope.

[Good2Go]

You don't need a 5 for Sag.

[summitchaserCJB]

If you want to protect the chimney.

[Sherri]

Rattletale

 

Take a couple #2's and #3's. And tape your wrists if you don't want folks suspecting that you're a cutter.

[Good2Go]

The chimney is really secure at the bottom and there's a fixed cam right where you need it. Go get it!

[Crillz]

Didn't mean to be a jerk. I like looking at the pics.

 

Fixed #5 up high? You still might want a cam you can walk.

[summitchaserCJB]

No worries Crillz. Just a problem with guidebook discrepancy. I agree about the walking cam.

[Good2Go]

Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.

[summitchaserCJB]

noted.

[DCramer]

More to consider.....

 

P1 Godzilla 5.9

P2 Gold bar Girls 5.9+ (if too dirty do p2 City Park)

P3 Klaus Von Bulow 5.10b (short crux at the start)

 

TR p3 J Gardens 5.11 fingers

 

 

[summitchaserCJB]

Godzilla -check

 

[Pete_H]

Princely to Beek Beek Beek - 5.9, but sorta 5.9+ish at the start

[eric8]

Klaus is every bit the index 10b...

[summitchaserCJB]

Princely- Check

[boadman]

Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.

 

Spraying bad beta is even worse.

 

 

[Good2Go]

It was only a recommendation, and I only contributed it in response to Sherri's post related to the same topic. What I spec'd is exactly what I use for the pitch, which I've climbed about 5 times in the past two years. What's your beef Choadman, too much gear or too little?