[TR] Source lake - Flow Reversal 1/30/2010

[Dane]

Trip: Source lake - Flow Reversal

 

Date: 1/30/2010

 

Trip Report:

Simply one of the best ice routes in Washington. And it seems to always come into shape....in one version or another.

 

Flow Reversal, Feb. 15 '09

 

Flow Reversal Jan 30 '10

 

Rafael Haroutunian leading the crux after I drafted in his trail breaking all morning

 

 

 

Ratings can be all over the map on this one, WI 5R, M5, 3 to 5 pitches can be had, or it can be WI6-R and no M rating or if you are lucky WI5-R and no rock. It is a water ice climb in an alpine environment so it is all about conditions. Today they were good.

 

Gear Notes:

Depends on the amount of ice. 3 raps to get off, one v thread and two trees. New tat and rings left today,

 

Approach Notes:

Get someone else to post hole up the hill for you...hopefull another climbing party going elsewhere on the buttress

 

No one else showed today Rating drops two points if you have a boot track to the alcove.

Edited February 3, 2010 by Dane

[wayne]

Wow, Nice! Anyone want to go do this on tuesday?

[Peakpimp]

Nice job Dane! Looks hard.

[Sol]

Nice man!

[Dane]

Thanks guys and a little more stokage for you

The money is on the 2nd pitch. And every time I'm reminded

that it is one of the most fun sections of steep ice I have

done anywhere, ever!

 

The 2nd pitch is just over 100' but always well

worth the walk. The other two pitches are

around 130' each and neither of them give aways.

 

Roger Strong and Chad Kellogg on an early ascent. Shows much of pitch 1 & 2.

 

 

Photo from a similar position on the snice yesterday

 

conditions looking down from mid pitch 2 with better ice.

 

And the third pitch in lean conditions mid February last year.

 

 

 

And Pu high on the first pitch last year.

[rocketparrotlet]

So Snoqualmie Pass ice is in? When we were up in McClellan Butte North Couloir, there were a couple 8-foot high flows and the ice seemed pretty rotten.

 

Is there any WI2-3 in?

 

-Mark

[Edlinger]

Trip: Source lake - Flow Reversal

 

Date: 1/30/2010

 

Trip Report:

it can be WI6-R

 

WI6 R rated?

 

Edited February 1, 2010 by Edlinger

[kevino]

Sure it can be WI6 after an earthquake makes the entire cliff over hanging. Judging by the photos Dane was on the WI5 version this winter, and perhaps the WI5+R one last year...but what do I know, montana and wyoming messed up my logic!

[Dane]

Some editing going on above....thought for a moment it was JK speed editing again.

 

How about less of the typical CC.com spray and you just go climb the damn thing and worry about the rating later.

 

Flow Reversal is simply one of the best ice routes in Wa. and well worth doing no matter what the rating. But FR is barely 100m of climbing generally and hardly worth a long conversation.

 

Here is a good read on point:

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/01/conditions.html

[Matt Kidd]

Nice lookin route Dane. Getting hungry for some Rockies ice? Sounds like from your upcoming spring adventure that some mixed wouldn't be a terrible idea. Sending a PM.

-Matt

[Dane]

Starved

[jmace]

But FR is barely 100m of climbing generally and hardly worth a long conversation.

 

then just post the pics, conditions and banter from the most recent trip so people can decide if they should hit it or not.

 

[Dane]

For once we agree..so I did a little editing myself.

[kevino]

Sorry Dane, I should have added an asterik next to my comment saying that I only ski and spray, no more climbing for me! (Both of which I do poorly, apparently!)

Edited February 2, 2010 by kevino

[wayne]

You should reconsider, Dane, Josh and got to do this amazing route today . It is fat and happy! Tr supplement to follow.

[Dane]

 

This thing is building...no one told FR that winter is over. 4 today and it may hit a 3 before it falls down in March. Someone is bound to ski it sooner or later

 

Great day out in the sun with Wayne and Josh. Thanks the boot pack guys!

[wayne]

Dane, working on the video, Got any good pics or vid?

waynewallace2@ gmail

Edited February 3, 2010 by wayne1112

[Peakpimp]

What an amazing line! And with perfect weather too. Thanks guys I had fun.

[jmace]

or if you are lucky WI5-R and no rock.

 

WI6 R to a 4 and maybe a 3 is just amazing, you guys must be more than just lucky!

 

Good one!!!

[Rafael_H]

Not at all, it's 6 that's absent and sorely missed! To me anyway... Sat conditions were quite good in fact, the angle and configuration were easy, but ice - quite chandeliered, laminated and thin in places. Just too short, and no worm-hole to Banff...

[bigeo]

Can't wait. Single or double rope raps?

[wayne]

Single, then double from trees just left of route.

[Dane]

Or three singles on a 60 will just barely make it as well with a little stretch.

 

1st pitch

 

[video:youtube]

 

[video:youtube]

 

the 2nd pitch belay stance......popping sounds are ice hitting the camera

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryLYjVUQV50

 

 

 

and then 2nd pitch.. 2/10/2010 about 1pm.

 

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrnxUS0r0aQ

[wayne]

Cool! Who where you there with?

[Dane]

Buddy from Sweden and uiaa guide in the past, Oscar Fors.

 

 

Swedes, Armenians, crazed meat cutters and Idaho red neck cousins, who else would climb ice in WA?

 

Rafael