ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Trip: BaconRawk - Ze Norseman's Noggin Date: 1/23/2010 Trip Report: holy sweet fucking jesus in a jumpsuit! seems like its been months since i've been out to the bacon-wand and it hasn't been fuck-all awful - today was a salve for my slave-adled soul - not a breath of wind - warm, warm sun - rock supporating with run-off from the endless rains - the mist-bands passed by late morning rapped into big ledge w/ kyle - falcons seem likely to nest there again this year as they greeted us on arrival, regarded as cooly for a few moments before flapping off to fornicate somewhere - we get 1 more weekend yet you avian-ass-pains! they didn't appear to have set up shop for the off-season yet. linked the first 2 pitches off big ledge but didn't take on the 3rd to the slum-it as it was too wet and i've yet to do it even when its dry - i'd done forgot how fun the "bolt-ladder" part is, with its multiple mandated hook moves n' beaks - pin stacks and rust-sweating bongs from the carter administration add to the ambiance - a distinct valley feel to the whole route - a 50 meter pitch w/ wild exposure and steeeeeep a few feet up, kyle w/ anal implant recently installed it could be the valley, right? is kyle channeling the joker? great place to take pix - could get sick shots of a leader on dastardly while dangling there shit-eating grin 6.0 and suddenly so serious... reach like a big boy! he doesn't look like he teaches special-ed, does he? to infinity and beyond! above the norseman's helmet yuppie time on big ledge - larry bitch-left by jim for being tardy - plans to shoot down the wall for The Big Hang-Out - then i gotta get to p-town and help mis amigos to move their shit about everyone had that shine 2day - musta been the miserable weather joe savaged that yellow mastercam that had been stranded on little wing for the past year - turns out there ain't much a sawzall can't destroy - think rei could be convinced to make good? can't believe this was damn near the last hurray till july for the south side - spring was on the move today - every tree and branch swelling - fuuuuuck! Gear Notes: purple tcu critical, big hook, triple hook, bird beak Approach Notes: touron trail to the first turn-out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 hooking on mossy slabs - so hawt right now [video:youtube] why in the hell must i make so many sideways videos? [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Wow I , the rpute I always wanted to do out there but never got to it Sweet, so how hard was it, how long did it take you to do the 2(?) leads? The bolts made it sane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 it's sane as an aid route - c2 (if lightly tapped in beaks count as clean ) - i can't fanthom freeing it but i'm sure you woulda styled it in your prime wayne - .11+ free i think the 2nd part, the bolt ladder above the hanging anchor, is funky - most bolts are 1/4 inchers w/ frail hangers, including several of the old pop-top types, but there's 2 newer bolts that make it so you probably wouldn't fall more than 20 feet if it all goes bad - would require a lot of pre-cleaning to free as its in super-deep, super-crusty lichen n' moss land - very fun for a ladder as you have to use 3 hook moves and a beak to link the bolts timewise...uh...lesse...listened to all my tunes alpabetically between B and D, so that ain't too long is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 It's interesting to see an aid renaissance cycle through so many years after a free one. Turn! Turn! Turn! To every thing there is a season... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tappet Brother 1 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 the season is the issue i reckon - this time of year there ain't much that can be freed 'round here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 all taint, all the time! good shot to capture da steepness! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I don't know. Seems like a lot more than the weather is going on with all this given trips to the Valley and all. As I said, interesting to watch unfurl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 unless you're a truly talented free climber, aid climbing lets you get to much sicker locales, no (and w/ much great quantities of liquor!)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 (edited) I've seen all you guys free climb and you all could be way solid at it - if you wanted to - but the aid thing is kind of cool on it's own, and yes, in part because of all the cool, less traveled parts of Beacon you've been hitting. I go back and forth between the cool and slacker view of it. Edit: and not that what I think should matter fuck all with the loads of fun you are so OCD about. Edited January 24, 2010 by JosephH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Thanks for the patient Belay Kyle. Thanks for the pics Wes, nice to meet you out there yesterday. Unfortunately, *cough* all the pics of me hang-dog'n were blurry *cough*. BTW, I left a stuck BD nut (gold I think, w/black & yellow tape markings) about half-way up Windsurfer. I could not get it out when I was cleaning on rap and it was getting dark. I was hoping to get it today but decided it is a bit too wet for my candy-ass. I don't want my make-up to run or get my panties wet! An icy cold brew of your choosing if you help it find it's way back to me. Got out of there just in time this morning. Started pouring as soon as I got to the duck blind but perfectly dry up till then. Looks like we'll be on a Bacon-free diet for the next 7 months... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 naw, now it's time fo the truly disgusting grovelling on the n side! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 you didn't force kyle to clamber on up after you?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Nice way to close out the season on the south side! I'd have been there with ya-all if a still wind hadn't conspired an armor. I still got in a couple of hours of a solo TR cleaning lap on Child Abuse at TFS. Beacon looks primo there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 you didn't force kyle to clamber on up after you?! No, he agreed (reluctantly, I'm sure) to give me some great belay. Although, he was saying something about not being very attentive on these long ass hang fests... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 naw, now it's time fo the truly disgusting grovelling on the n side! I'm a-scared of poison oak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I've seen all you guys free climb and you all could be way solid at it - if you wanted to - but the aid thing is kind of cool on it's own, and yes, in part because of all the cool, less traveled parts of Beacon you've been hitting. I go back and forth between the cool and slacker view of it. Edit: and not that what I think should matter fuck all with the loads of fun you are so OCD about. Ivan is half-off his rocker but he does manage to get plenty of vertical mileage... Rain or shine, that crazy mo-fo is get'n after it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 who cares, i've done some pretty fucking cool aid pitches that i don't think anyone is gonna free climb anytime soon. plus u get really good at placing gear which benefits ur free climbing cause ur plugin in pieces as if u were clipping bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 hey pink, have you climbed that final pitch to the summit of the norseman? looks very exciting and had 1 newish bolt that i could see - looked like much mandatory free- wasn't interested in choss-wrestling in the slime and i didn't want kyle to see me sweat niether! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 naw, now it's time fo the truly disgusting grovelling on the n side! I'm a-scared of poison oak. it's only bad on the last pitch, andt here of course its 100% unavoidable - in winter you got plenty of clothes on so it doesn't matter much anyhow - i've never gotten zapped bad on that side, and i'm plenty reactive to it - the greater problem on the n is that, save seige tactics, nothing is climbalbe in the rain, or even days after rain - we gotta start getting some climbs over there that are more all-weather, which'll require plenty of bolts, or at least rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 i've never been up there before... how's ur assortment of hooks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 isn't it fun when both retards can play on the same anchor at the same time? 4 bolts from 3 generations makes it all kewl'n'da'gang! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 i've never been up there before... how's ur assortment of hooks? holy shit, something niether u nor wayne have done? guess i'm gonna have 2 get good n' drunk 2night! i'm a dipshit when it comes to hooks (or anything else really) - can't seem to recollect the names of any of them, save my boy mike's ibis hook , mostly 'cuz that one's so goddamn aggro-big it frightens me to carry it on lead, like i'm gonna fall w/ it and it's gonna end up 4 inches deep in my chest cavity! anyhow, i got bd's basic assortment i reckon - only carry 2 of them w/ regualrity - need to get some bigger cam hooks, the only 1 i have has yet to succesfully hold my weight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 do u own a talon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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