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imorris

Black Spider, Mt Hood

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I know several things about the 'Black Spider', onMt.Hood- 1)there isn't anywhere near enough coverageto make any route feasible 2)I believe the firstascentionist was Wayne Wallace 3)you know that giantlandslide that happened on the East side of Hood,in late July? That's right, it was right there, sothe original Wallace route is gone. 4)you know whatthe rock on Mt.Hood is like don't you? Shit! 5)Ihope that because your post is in the newbie section,that it is because you are new to the area and notnew to climbing(try the 'Oregon Cascades' section); unless you have climbed some of the otherhard routes on the mountain-Sandy Glacier Headwall(1937 variation),any variation of the North Face,the Elliot Glacier Headwall, Yokum Ridge or CastleCrags, you might not want to mess with the spider,or you might get bitten!I've got a lot of greatsuggestions for alternatives.

[big Drink]

[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

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Sorry, didn't check the forum I was in. I've climbed a number of routes on Hood, but I had not found any info on that route. We were eyeing it when we were checking out the Newton Clark Headwall last spring, but were not serious about climbing it. I was just wondering what kind of climbing activity it receives, and from your description, obviously very little. Since I was evacuated off Hood from rockfall on the Sandy Headwall, I'm quite familar with the mountain's delightful rock, and avoid it at all costs. I was also wondering what kind of rock climber I need to be to climb that band on Eliot Headwall, and what pro to take if you have any advice. (maybe no pro at all)

Thanks,

Iain

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I'd bring passive pro(larger nuts or hexes), but

the rock is still shit and you wouldn't want to fall

on your pro; it might hold, it might not. You should

be able to comfortably climb 5.5-5.7(in your plastic

or leather boots and crampons); you'd be best to

try this in January-early May, so that more of the

rock is as covered as possible. I believe you were

on the Sandy Glacier with a kook,JF?Your injury, was

a result of his BAD judgement;screw the OMA!

On a lighter note, if you want more beta, let me

know.

[big Drink]

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It kills me when pussies like trask insult the likes of R Pumpington . Trask you are OBVIOUSLY outclassed. R.P. knows his stuff .All you ever post is insults . I know I do also but I am a newby retaliating on insullts.Thumbs down to trask .Who are you really your style is very simular to another here ....hmmmmmmm

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On Cascade volcano rock forget the air voyagers/screamers, bring either a drill and five foot long bits and bolts, or a shit load of slings and a shovel to dig bollards out of the rock. grin.gif" border="0

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Being Wayne Wallace and having climbed three routes on the Spider, I hope the slide didnt wipe out the routes from end to end on the wall.

The Spider is a wonderful and challenging face with great alpine climbing. The new Jeff Thomas guide should be out soon and topo the routes on the Spider as well as the best kept secret in the northwest.

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Pumpalot: interesting take on my Sandy HW climb. What did you consider bad judgement about our decisions (and where did you find out about them)? Just wondering.

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I didn't realize there would be a sequel to Oregon High. What a killer book, thanks to Jeff Thomas.

Thanks for the info,

Iain

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Yo IMorris,

The main thing that I found wrong, was the hour ofday in which you were at the base of the climb. Youshould have been at the top of the route at that hour.That route is a natural funnel, so you want to beat the top of the route, by the time the sun hitsthe top of the route. I've heard several accountsof the accident from the media,rangers,PMR and themost creative account, on the OMA website. I toowas unaware that Jeff Thomas was making a update to'Oregon High'; all other guidebooks on Hood, or Oregon'sCascades for that mater, suck by comparison. [big Drink]

[ 01-09-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

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I think the main reason we wound up there at around 6:30 was to avoid traversing Yocum Ridge in the dark. The HW stays shaded for a good amount of time in the morning, and the route itself was totally clean of runnels or debris. It doesn't funnel as badly as Leuthold's, which we checked for rockfall to get a feel for the overall stability that day. It was the traverse over to the HW that caused the problem, and as far as I can tell, that was the only rockfall of the day (watching the route bake in the sun for hours on end :-)) Anyways, thanks for your opinion. And since you are from Terrebonne are you the same R.Pumpington on crag.com.

Iain

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